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Mar 20, 2012 14:29:29 GMT
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I know this has been asked already and I know I even offered an opinion when it has been asked.
But say I want to paint stuff which was factory chromed what is the best way to prepare the surface?
The days of finding a friendly platers and getting them to strip the plate off it seem to have gone by the wayside and that was always my answer.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Mar 20, 2012 14:35:03 GMT
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Acid etch primer, I'd say - it seemed to work for Bruce on the MX5's door handles etc. IIRC, he used the Upol #8.
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,791 
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Mar 20, 2012 15:17:10 GMT
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Personally, I'd be looking at sand blasting. It'll remove any suspect chrome and provide an excellent key for paint.
Always worked for me in the past
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Mar 20, 2012 15:46:22 GMT
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last time we asked about this there was an opinion that sand blasting would not shift chrome. You've done it successfully in the past? Etch primer seems too easy  |
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Mar 20, 2012 16:13:42 GMT
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I think the idea with the sand blasting isn't that it removes all the chrome, but that any chrome that it doesn't take off, is likely there for the long haul, and wont be a problem to paint over. Plus it will effectively key the surface of the remaining chrome and the metal where loose chrome's been removed.
It's not something I've tried my self, but I think my approach would be a key and etch primer on good condition chrome parts, and sand-blasting then etch priming for anything with suspect chrome.
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Mar 20, 2012 16:49:53 GMT
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If the chrOme were good I'd not be painting it ;-)
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,791
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Mar 20, 2012 18:08:53 GMT
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I think the idea with the sand blasting isn't that it removes all the chrome, but that any chrome that it doesn't take off, is likely there for the long haul, and wont be a problem to paint over. Plus it will effectively key the surface of the remaining chrome and the metal where loose chrome's been removed. It's not something I've tried my self, but I think my approach would be a key and etch primer on good condition chrome parts, and sand-blasting then etch priming for anything with suspect chrome. ^^^ This^^^ Yes, I have used sand blasting to remove chrome in the past. It's a long job if it's good chrome. (usually i'm removing chrome from brass which usually 'sticks' better than on steel) And as Rbin says, it's very effective at removing iffy chrome and provides pretty much THE best key for paint on whatever stays behind. I have painted on chrome before using this method, and never had an issue with it lifting or falling off |
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Mar 20, 2012 22:02:14 GMT
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cheers buddy, do you do it yourself of sub it out? I'm looking for recommends in the Leicester/Nottingham area...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Mar 21, 2012 12:17:30 GMT
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People might not agree but I've used Hammerite Special Metal Primer for years on galv, stainless, brass and chrome with excellent results.
Paul h
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Mar 21, 2012 13:23:29 GMT
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40 grit flapwheel to smooth out/remove loose stuff, then acid etch and hi-build.
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Mar 21, 2012 20:45:22 GMT
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the shape of the parts would make a flap wheel trick to operate. 40 by hand would be do-able.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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stefan
Posted a lot
If it isn't broken fix it till it is
Posts: 1,598
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Mar 21, 2012 20:50:58 GMT
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I have a sand blaster here is you want to test the idea mate
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POWER IS EVERYTHING WITHOUT CONTROL
1985 Honda jazz
1997 Saab 93 convertible
2010 transit 280
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,791
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Mar 21, 2012 23:02:37 GMT
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cheers buddy, do you do it yourself of sub it out? I'm looking for recommends in the Leicester/Nottingham area... I do my own, but I'm not exactly local ! Between Rugby and Daventry |
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Stefan, I shall discuss with you later then
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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stefan
Posted a lot
If it isn't broken fix it till it is
Posts: 1,598
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No problem mate see you this evening
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POWER IS EVERYTHING WITHOUT CONTROL
1985 Honda jazz
1997 Saab 93 convertible
2010 transit 280
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Don't need to blast it particularly, I use 40 grit to chop the surface up a bit. Then finer grades till it's done & scuffed all over, no trace of shiney left. This just gives a key, I doubt etch will touch the chrome.
Or fibre disc on a grinder. I use big ones with a small backing thingy so it's more flexy. Just whizzed the chrome off some overriders for welding and paint, done in a jiffy. Now etch will bite the steel.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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Mar 22, 2012 17:26:49 GMT
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James is right, I did use Upol #8 for etch priming various chrome parts (not just my MX5, but various headlamp surrounds and also a set of chrome steel wheels). I did, however, blast them all in the sandblast cabinet first. It didn't remove the chrome but gave it a satin finish which was the perfect key for the etch paint to adhere to. The chrome wheels I did are the ones currently on my Delica. They were blasted then acid etch primed, then about three coats of rattle can satin black on top. They've had some abuse in the 2 years since I did them and they still look good today....and when I mean abuse, I think you know what I mean I think even acid etch would chip off if you tried to paint it directly onto straight bright chrome. Good luck with it.  |
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cheers all - photos will be forthcoming eventually
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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