kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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Mar 10, 2012 12:55:48 GMT
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alright chaps! now, a few weeks ago I bought a lovely N12 cherry from this here forum - unfortunately on the way home the windscreen decided it would rather be an 8000 piece jigsaw on the M6  so, I sourced a s/h screen, and eventually got my  over to warrington to pick it up - cheers mark! thing is, I didn't realise it was a bonded one  so now I need some advice on putting it in * we've got the old bits of screen out, the trims etc - and are now carefully scraping the old bits of sealant out - it's coming out ok, but does anybody know of any prodects to soften it - or use heat maybe? or any other tips to remove the stuff? * I've got a tube of POWERBOND ;D to glue it in with, and got a tube of citroen / peugeot primer to plop on too - any tips for using this?? basically, any helpful tips or hints will be appreciated cheerzzz - kfw |
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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Mar 10, 2012 13:00:34 GMT
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oh yeah, forgot to add - there's been a few scratches caused removing the old sealant - bang some paint / primer on there? - or will the powerbond be enough - don't want to be fetching the glass out with a rusty screen surround in a few months, but also don't want the screen to leak where the sealant hasn't stuck to the new paint?
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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Mar 10, 2012 13:12:42 GMT
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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Mar 10, 2012 13:30:50 GMT
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cheers for that - I've got to go to work now, but I shall have a butchers at those links later - hopefully my local factors will have summat similar so we can crack on with it
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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bonded screen tips10mpg
@10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member 204
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Ok..
(speaking as an ex-window fitter, many many years ago)
you need to paint the scratches in the frame the bond will NOT stop it rusting, quite the opposite in fact, you probably couldnt make a better environment for tin worm..
**to do the job properly**
You need two primers, one for the glass and one for the metal/remains of rubber seal, you don't need to clean all of the old seal off just get it nice and low and most importantly smooth with no flappy bits that let the screen leak after fitting by stopping the bond sealing..
I used a 'long knife' with a new blade in it held backwards slid round the old sealent whilt pulling/peeling it off in one nice long strip, obv the warmer everything is the softer and easier it will be!
1) clean glass properly, if its used clean it with something harsh, thinners then window cleaner or similar,
2) prime glass, one continuous bead all round roughly where glue line will be about 3/4 inch strip should be fine..
3) prime aperture same as above..
4) cut a large V shape in your cartridge nozzle so as you move the caulk gun across the lip it will leave about a an inch high 1/2 inch wide V
5) lift screen in (get a mate to help you) try and place it into place evenly. (trickly to do without suction pads, but if you cant improvise place the bottom in first square and flat as you can (as you can get your fingers under it) then drop the top in from a few centimeters (as close as the curvature of the screen will allow)
6) DO NOT remove it even if you think it's going in wrong, unless you got it so wrong you HAVE to start again, you're committed by this point, once it touches the sealant anywhere press it gently home,
7)adjust it in the gap to centralise it and support it in place with masking tape holding it 'up' by sticking a couple of strips on the top of the glass that go up onto the roof, (you may need to get your mate to hold up the screen whilst you do the masking tape..
(if you did balls it up, fitting is the hardest part) let the glue go off cut it all off, clean the screen up with a razor blade and start again, you will be lucky to get away without annoying leaks if you don't..
Call or FB if I can help remotely in any other way! ;-)
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Last Edit: Mar 11, 2012 1:25:28 GMT by 10mpg
The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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have not heard of masterbond but it looks like the old system i used to use with an activator and black primer, do what 10mpg said but before you cut all the old bond off see how high it sits (ie between the glass and body) and make some block's from rubber or some of the old bond once removed, wont be easy with the broken glass on, you can also use cork or hard foam block (the type you get in parts box's etc, the block's are to keep the screen at the right hight, you don't want to make them to high as the side/gutter trims will not reach the clips, too low and you will have wind noise to die for! clean the glass well, on an old screen i use glass cleaner and a couple of saftey blade's (the razor blade type) it wont scratch the glass just in case you worry, as long as you use them at a diagonal angle, remove all the old bond from the body with a Longknife or a stanley knife, a small sharp chissle can be used to, any rust you find will need to be sorted well, whatever you use to on the rust MUST be dry before you put the primer from the bond kit on, it's not the hardest screen to fit but if you have not done it before it can be rather taxing  the top trim might be rather hard or out of shape so get down to you local scrappy to find an old corsa heated rear window trim, the 3 door will be best, once out cut to size and tape to the top and the bottom of the screen then try to fit the screen dry (ie without the bond ) dummy run if you get what i meen, if it's tight turm the screen upside down ( belly up) and remove the small lip off the back of the trim, you wont see this from the outside, this is all from memory as i have not fitted a N12 screen for around 15 to 20 years as they don't come up very often now, any troubles drop me a pm  |
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MK2 Cortina Estate
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so now I need some advice on putting it in
