will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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today i was getting all the brakes fitted and connected upto my corolla, and once it was done i thought brilliant ill get my dad down to help bleed them, started on thje rear left, rear right, front left and then front right.
they bled through brilliantly second time round and no air or leaks that i know of!
now the problem they simply don't work at all theres no pedal, can be pumped and get a little pedal but, leave it for 30 secs and the pedal has gone.
i had all the calipers removed for cleaning, inspection and replace the pads. the only piston i touched were one of the rears where the dust boot was replaced, as well as the seal.
any help greatly appreciated
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master cylinder seals gone?
any leaking from the servo?
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Last Edit: Mar 5, 2012 19:00:05 GMT by Autofive
Someone just shot the elephant in the room. |
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will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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not that I can tell, although is it possible for the fluid to leak like this?
also they worked alright before this!
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Last Edit: Mar 5, 2012 19:09:20 GMT by will930
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did you bleed them by depressing the pedal or let them drip?
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room. |
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will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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depressing the pedal, as the system had virtually ran dry... all the fluid has come through with no bubbles at all
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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What makes you say they've bled through brilliantly if there's no pedal? I'd be tempted to try some more bleeding before messing around too much. If the system's been completely drained at any point then it can be a pain to get air-locks out of the high points in the lines/calipers.
It's possible that the master-cylinders seals have been damaged by pushing the pedal right into the bottom of its stroke. Sometimes surface-rust can build up in the area that doesn't get swept in normal use, so when you push the seals into that area bleeding it, it can damage them. It doesn't seem all that common though, never happened to me so far.
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will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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well it was left with no clamps on the lines and may have pressed the pedal while messing about with the dash they havent been left for very long at all!
whats the best way to try and bleed these high points? but would that give a slight feel of a pedal before it lets go?
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I had the same thing on my Cortina.Ended up being the master cylinder.Changed that, and all was sorted.
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will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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please don't say that  thats very expensive I'm going to try other methods first |
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will
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,023
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Tapping the lines/callipers to tease the bubbles out has worked for me in the past as has pushing the piston as far back as poss to minimise the fluid that needs bleeding. Also could try leaving some pressure on the pedal overnight to get the bubbles to the top. This ius my all time favourite brake fix as it involves no work and they magically fix themselves overnight, sometimesBleeding breaks can be a bleeding pain sometimes  Good luck |
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bleed them again ,a empty system needs a bit of fluid to fill,how much did you use,you should be able to find the capacity of the brake system
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will930
Part of things
Decked K11 Micra - RetroRunner Mk2 Golf
Posts: 521
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hmmm i must have used about a litre and a half including what came out in my coffee jar!
i have been given a few ideas to try, which is to clamp 3 of the brake lines at a time and then try,
try resetting the rear handbrake adjusters
and whats mentioned above
otherwise theres a chance i could have turned the seals inside out within the master cylinder
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I would agree with master cylinder .. sounds exactly the same as what happened my car .. did you try loosening the pipes where they come out of the cylinder and bleed the cylinder on its own ?? sometimes works .. air bubbled cause weird goings on..
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its not a rust hole its air conditioning
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Try all other avenues first but i have had this loads of times with old masters, the act of bleeding and pushing the pedal past it's usuall travel nips the tip od the seals on the wear ridge on the cylinder walls, i only ever use easybleeds with foot pumping as a back up or on new masters.
Fingers crossed for ya
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R.I.P photobucket
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Brigsy
Part of things
Posts: 617
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The master cylinder has probably failed. Happened to me recently, bled brakes on my gt turbo and no pedal. New master cylinder cured it.
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you didnt re-use the aerorated fluid did you?
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room. |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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HELP, Mojo Failing, No Brakes!ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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I would be tempted to say the Master cylinder too. On my MGB it was fine after two pumps but given a short while the brakes were pants again. It also had the habit of throwing out brake fluid into the servo and then being consumed by the engine depending on how hard I took a corner or braked.
Did you use fresh fluid or put back in what came out?
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Last Edit: Mar 6, 2012 10:26:54 GMT by ChasR
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if you are sure all the air is out. If there are no pools of brake fluid anywhere If the only way you can get a pedal is to pump it and even then the pedal slowly goes down. Master cyclinder has gone  |
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MC often dies after bleeding as it suddenly has to move through a full stroke when it's used to just working for a small part of the stroke. Have had this problem more than once....
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Happened to me too (on mk2 golf). Changed a caliper, bled it with my foot and lost one of the split circuits. Swapped the master cylinder (not too bad of a job really) and it was fine.
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thats very expensive I'm going to try other methods first 
