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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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cheapest option is a pacet switch housing, goes in the top hose, available in differant sizes from Burtonpower £20  although you really should have bought the housing first and then matced the sender thread to it cos the one you have may not fit? I use one with a selection of ford switches for differant cut in/out temps depending on what engine i'm using it on a tthe time (it's been with the car through several differant engines both petrol and diesel www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-category/cooling-system/electric-fan-controllers/pacetca2228.html |
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R.I.P photobucket
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Interesting to see so many options - many thanks for all the input ;D wheeler dealers / digi temp probe looks good but may will be the most hightech part of the car  "working temp 0 to 50*, temp control -50* to 110* " I guess the 50* is underbonnet temp, "up to 110*" is the water temp ? Burton tophose adaptor is the type of thing I was thinking about, just couldn't find it when I was searching, I failed  £20 for the housing + £15 switch + P&P is fair but more than I was hoping for  Same idea but slightly cheaper ... www.extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog/HOSE_ADAPTER_FOR_RADIATOR_FAN_SWITCH.htmlDIY (scaffold pipe with M14 nut migg'd ) - I like this idea a lot and it's in keeping with the rest of the car ;D Forgot to say, I don't have a housing or switch yet as the car is original old school so it's just got a housing with no switch. On the plus side, it does mean I've got a wide choice when I'm looking for an upgrade ;D  |
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Last Edit: Mar 3, 2012 16:45:06 GMT by nomad
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Interesting to see so many options - many thanks for all the input ;D wheeler dealers / digi temp probe looks good but may will be the most hightech part of the car "working temp 0 to 50*, temp control -50* to 110* " I guess the 50* is underbonnet temp, "up to 110*" is the water temp ? Ha, suspected this may be the case. And yeah, that is my understanding, the box can survive up to 50 degrees, the range is up to 110 degrees. I guess this would be enough, and it will probably read lower than the actual water temp if just wedged in the rad. It is programmable so it can come on at 95 and not turn off until 85 for instance. Obviously you don't want your fan to be constantly stopping/starting. The device I posted may work but if you can find the thing they used on wheeler dealers (a proper automotive part) I think you'd be better off. It is cheap though so may be worth a punt. |
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I've got Rovers.
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Regards to the ebay link above, we have them in the work vans to control the fridge and freezer so they are up for the job ime.
I remember in practical classics they fitted a rather expensive system which basically functioned the same without the LED display, using the same probe, to fit it was poked down the side of the top hose smeared with silicone, job done.
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate |
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Anglia68
Posted a lot
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Posts: 2,050
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When I fitted an electric fan to my old Anglia van I used a Lotus otter switch to control it.All I had to do was drill a hole in the top tank,insert a special grommet and then push in the otter switch.The way the grommet is shaped means that the greater the pressure the better the seal is. It worked a treat for all the years I had it.  |
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dgo
Part of things
Posts: 41
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I've got one of those. Kenlowe sell the rubber seals that allow it to be used on a top hose for around £1 for 2. I got mine from CPC - cpc.farnell.com/microtherm/I'm-100064/thermostat-0-120c/dp/HG00266?in_merch=Products From This Range Paul H |
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I use these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280816197212 and a normal m22 threaded sensor from the local parts shop. (Or a second hand switch from a radiator in a scrapyard if you want to save a few quid) Incidently i always thought the switch should be fitted in the bottom hose of the radiator, or lower part of rad. You don't want the fan kicking in until the radiator isn't cooling the water enough and needs some help. Which would be when the water coming out of the radiator and back to the engine is still hot. |
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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I use these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280816197212 and a normal m22 threaded sensor from the local parts shop. (Or a second hand switch from a radiator in a scrapyard if you want to save a few quid) Incidently I always thought the switch should be fitted in the bottom hose of the radiator, or lower part of rad. You don't want the fan kicking in until the radiator isn't cooling the water enough and needs some help. Which would be when the water coming out of the radiator and back to the engine is still hot. There are 2 sides to that, i hold the opposite veiw that you want it to read the hottest water to come on soonest (same as the temp gauge) and it seems 95% of OE fitments are on the same side, what the real propper answer is don't know? i assumed nearest to the heat controler is best and the heat controler is the stat  which on 95% of engines is at the top. |
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R.I.P photobucket
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,543
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When I fitted an electric fan to my old Anglia van I used a Lotus otter switch to control it.All I had to do was drill a hole in the top tank,insert a special grommet and then push in the otter switch.The way the grommet is shaped means that the greater the pressure the better the seal is. It worked a treat for all the years I had it. I'm pretty sure that's the same set up as the late MGB had as I replaced the switch on our one. Would be worth searching teh MG suppliers if that was a way you chose to go. |
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable. |
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Mantasport & bortaf - thanks for the ideas. Noticed the Ford stat housings I were lookng at had a switch there, so they fit it next to the hot outlet on the block. Would guess you don't need the fan on until the water returning from the rad is too hot - but by then it's too late to cool it Seth - good thinking  I was Googling Lotus, nothing simple or cheap came up. Same part badged for an MGB should be a whole lot more affordable ;D Switches... Found how they get their name - as water gets 'otter (Otter - gedit ) they turn the fan on. There's also a manufaturer called Otter, but I prefer the other explanation ;D Keep the ideas coming, there's still time to tell me all about the even-better and even-cheaper solutions All ideas welcome, car is off the road until at least next weekend so I have a while to get the bits I need. |
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Copey
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,845
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1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire GLSi with 2.0 Zetec
1985 Ford Capri 3.0 (was a 2.0 Laser originally)
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ChrisT
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,670
Club RR Member Number: 225
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Incidently I always thought the switch should be fitted in the bottom hose of the radiator, or lower part of rad. You don't want the fan kicking in until the radiator isn't cooling the water enough and needs some help. Which would be when the water coming out of the radiator and back to the engine is still hot. There are 2 sides to that, I hold the opposite veiw that you want it to read the hottest water to come on soonest (same as the temp gauge) and it seems 95% of OE fitments are on the same side, what the real propper answer is don't know? I assumed nearest to the heat controler is best and the heat controler is the stat which on 95% of engines is at the top. I've heard equally good arguements for mounting either side, I went for top hose as the fan doesn't come on when the car's moving only when stationary which means the rad won't be doing much so I want the fan switched as soon as the the water coming out the block starts to get too hot. If it were in the bottom hose the engine could be running far too hot but as long as the fan and rad were doing their job of bringing the coolant temp down you wouldn't know. |
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)
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which on 95% of engines is at the top.
