bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Feb 29, 2012 17:03:19 GMT
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On the way out this morning by Triumph 1300 suffered big end failure! Which is a real shame because its been doing sterling service since september last year. Anyway above 2.5 to 3k rpm it knocks loudly but goes away when on full throttle or if you back off. Mind the loud exhaust might be hiding stuff ;D I'm pretty sure it is big ends and hope it hasn't scored the crank and I can get away with just changing the shells. Anyway I'm feeling totally curse word off now and can see 4 options to procede. 1 New Short engine one on ebay at the moment for about £200 2 Change the shells and hope for the best £22.50 3. Drive it into the ground and crush it when it goes bang. 4. Pull of the road strip and completly rebuild engine. What would you do? bearing in mind with a good engine id be lucky to see £700 selling it! Have some 1300 pics by way of apology
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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Feb 29, 2012 17:06:55 GMT
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I'd personally just get another engine, if it's gone knocky all of a sudden then something has let go (probably span a bearing) so it's bound to have picked up on the crank I reckon.
Then again my engine building experience is limited to one single A series engine that I rebuilt and managed to make even worse, so I'm hardly the most qualified to advise.
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Last Edit: Feb 29, 2012 17:07:25 GMT by cobblers
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mk14dr
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 4,472
Club RR Member Number: 85
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Bring back the mojo please.mk14dr
@mk14dr
Club Retro Rides Member 85
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Feb 29, 2012 17:09:43 GMT
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Aw, man, thats a real shame to hear.
Really the options depend upon what alternative transport you have.. did you ever buya modern-ish car for the family to use?
If not, then maybe the quickest way will be a new lump. Be it a short, or long motor. Second option would be pull the motor and have a look. If you think it'll get away with just some bearings, then go for it, but expect to have to do the same job again at some junction.
Lets face it, driving it as is until it goes bang then bailing it isn't really an option at all. (although Ive got no room to talk as getting bailed is exactly whats going to happen to the Prelude)
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Feb 29, 2012 17:14:07 GMT
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Ive gotted a 61 plate Scenic on motabilty for transporting the family, but without my bro I am now carless. Although I'm pretty sure I could get the DAF on the road quite quickly if it wasn't 300 miles away lol.
Silver lining is this. I just managed to get myself a barn with room for 6 cars and an inspection pit to work on the cars.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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Brian Damaged
West Midlands
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 9,555
Club RR Member Number: 33
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Feb 29, 2012 17:15:49 GMT
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The 1500's suffered far worse in this respect, but that Triumph unit has a reputation for knocking the bottom end out. That's why Mrs.Seth's Herald now packs MX5 power. Not an option here though, as the Triumph FWD gearbox was made out of Play-Doh.
Don't drive it. You might get away with a set of shells and a crank regrind if you're lucky. Or just lob in the short engine, it's three days wages plus a weekend's work at the end of the day.
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Feb 29, 2012 17:33:13 GMT
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1 New Short engine one on ebay at the moment for about £200 2 Change the shells and hope for the best £22.50 3. Drive it into the ground and crush it when it goes bang. 4. Pull of the road strip and completly rebuild engine. 1) Sounds sensible - but if you need the car ASAP don't do this alone: you'll rush the work and make mistakes. Or at least that's what I tend to do in these situations. 2) Doubt that would work - can't imagine the crank is ok if it's knocking like that, so it will need a regrind at least. 3) Don't be silly. Overall the condition's not too bad by the looks of things, and it would be a shame to kill it for the sake of bolt-on mechanical bits. Financially silly too: if you put the short engine in and then sell it you're about £500 up. Bale it and you're perhaps £100 up. 4) An option if you have something else to drive for the moment, or don't need transport while you're doing so. Don't under-estimate the cost of an engine rebuild though. Perhaps the best option would be to find a cheap used running engine to get it going again. I don't know the Triumph parts market but you should be able to find a tired but running standard lump for £50-£100. That will keep it on the road with the minimum of work and cost in the meantime while you build something else or save for a rebuilt lump. For example - although I don't know whether the FWD engine is the same design as the RWD Dolly/Toledo/Spit/Herald lumps - spitbitz sell used engines from £95: www.spitbitz.co.uk/html/used_parts.htmlI'm sure that there are other Triumph breakers that advertise in the classic press, but I can't for the life of me remember who they are. Would be worth getting in touch with the owner's club too. Then build up a decent engine at your leisure - either rebuilding the dead lump or starting with a short engine. I would suggest NOT trying to build an engine (even around the short block) to put it back on the road ASAP: engine builds should be done slowly, with lots and lots of measuring and care and attention to detail. Rushing at it causes mistakes and all sorts of problems.
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Last Edit: Feb 29, 2012 17:34:27 GMT by jrevillug
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Feb 29, 2012 17:39:10 GMT
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Engine is the standard 1296cc 4 cyl Triumph lump. As used in the spitfire, herald, toledo and dolomite. The spitfire version though has a higher lift cam and kicks out 75 rather than 61bhp its also used in the 1300TC FWD
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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Feb 29, 2012 17:44:54 GMT
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Engine is the standard 1296cc 4 cyl Triumph lump. As used in the spitfire, herald, toledo and dolomite. Excellent - that makes it much easier. I was concerned that they'd altered the design for FWDness (rather like the different variations of A-series) which would make it like rocking-horse manure. The spitfire version though has a higher lift cam and kicks out 75 rather than 61bhp its also used in the 1300TC FWD Well if you can get a (presumably running) Spit engine from a business for £100 I'd imagine that you should be able to get a running standard engine from a club member for £50. That would be my route of choice, having built and swapped engines a few times in my (only working) car.
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Feb 29, 2012 17:50:15 GMT
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The FWD design on these is rather unusual as the engine is longitudinally mounted and the gearbox is underneath although not sharing the same oil.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Feb 29, 2012 17:53:50 GMT
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I've always gone down the route of buying a spare engine for whichever old motor I've just bought, then rebuilding it and fitting that. Even when there was nothing really wrong woth the original. I guess I just like building engines! lol
That said, I don't think I've ever spent less than £200 on parts alone on each of them. Even the A series I've just done for the van cost about that and that didn't need a crank grind!
It depends on what you want to do with the car. If you intend keeping it a while, then I'd look at building/getting built a replacement. If you just want to get it mobile again, then just grab a used unit that runs, wang that in a nd move it on asap!
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Feb 29, 2012 17:57:24 GMT
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If you even mention option number 3 again, there'll be a convoy coming up from down south to make sure you're crushed in it. It's a shame this didn't happen about a fortnight ago. Jod has just given away a load of 1300 engines. Anyway, good luck.
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Feb 29, 2012 17:57:40 GMT
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I want to keep the car as ive put a lot into it. I know its got a good solid body as ive made it that way. Better the devil you know and all
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,926
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Bring back the mojo please.stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Feb 29, 2012 17:57:43 GMT
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Take the sump off and the main/big end caps with the engine in if poss and see what's knackered. If crank needs a grind it'll need to come off anyway.
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Feb 29, 2012 17:58:58 GMT
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Take the sump off and the main/big end caps with the engine in if poss and see what's knackered. If crank needs a grind it'll need to come off anyway. Thats not possible unfortunatly as the gearbox is in the way. Engine has to come out of the car to get to the bottom end.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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retrolegends
Club Retro Rides Member
Winging it.....Since 1971.
Posts: 3,726
Club RR Member Number: 94
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Bring back the mojo please.retrolegends
@retrolegends
Club Retro Rides Member 94
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Feb 29, 2012 17:58:59 GMT
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Not enough Triumphs on the road so you have to fix it man! Have this for your trouble!
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1974 Hillman Avenger 1500DL1992 Volvo 240SE1975 Datsun Cherry 100a flying custard1965 Hillman SuperMinx Rock N Roller1974 Austin Allegrat Mk1 1.3SDL1980 Austin Allegro Mk3 1.3L1982 Austin Allegro Mk3 on banded steels2003 Saab 9-3 Convertible 220bhp TurboNutter1966 Morris Minor 1000 (Doris) 2019 Abarth 595C Turismo (not retro but awesome fun) www.facebook.com/DatsunCherry100a
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,926
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Bring back the mojo please.stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Feb 29, 2012 18:02:10 GMT
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Ah right that's a pain in the then. I'd just pull the motor then, can't be that hard aslong as all the bolts come out, though on an old triumph I'd imagine they'll have had a good soaking in oil.
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Feb 29, 2012 18:38:37 GMT
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Nope. This engine doesn't leak or burn oil. It was coming up for an oil change now 3k miles since the last and I haven't had to top it up once. I was thinking that the simplest way to do it would be to undo the 4 front subframe bolts and lift the car off with the two post lift leaving the running gear behind. Whilst the engine is out I'm gonna put new synchro rings on the gearbox it seems stupid not too when the gear box is such a pain to get at.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,789
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Feb 29, 2012 19:09:50 GMT
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There's also a modification on one of the gears IIRC (can't remember which) as the originals are made of Dairylea and have a habit of breaking. Might be worth looking into that also. I believe it was fairly well documented on the TDC (Triumph Dolomite Club) Though I haven't been a member on there for a few years now
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Feb 29, 2012 19:33:12 GMT
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Good luck lifting the engine off the gearbox, James and I tried it with some rope, he came over that evening to get my crane instead! Though that afternoon I found out just how shagged my knee really is, so I wasn't really going for it, but still.
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Feb 29, 2012 19:57:26 GMT
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You can do all the 4 options, in that order as well. So, why do you need to choose?
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Click picture for more
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