To drive 911, clutch needs to be pressed in..?

Sounds like the clutch is a bit sticky, probably not a big deal if its been sat around a lot, but there’s an outside chance there might be a clutch fault. If you can, try and set off from a standstill with the engine warm a few times, like 10 or so. Most likely the problem will just go away. If not then its something more serious, presumably a 911 clutch is an engine-out?

Didnt Ed China end up replacing a gearbox on a 911 mike bought with a "clutch fault"?

A clutch on a 911 will set you back the thick end of near £300 for the part alone + time in dropping the engine out etc.

frazerpart.com/acatalog/911_New_3.Transmission.html

Be very careful, half the reason i sold my 911 was the astronomical price of bits put the fear in me....

The cable clutches are no where near as nice as the later hydraulic ones, and the 915 gearbox is much weaker and slower than the G50 which came in a couple of years after yours, a light box rebuild just replacing the bare essentials, will probably cost you over a grand in parts, and thats if there's nothing properly wrong.

There's a known problem with the clutch actuation arm, there's a number of fixes but even if you'r lucky this is still a several hundred pond fix.

All this is kind of irrelevant compared to the rust situation, these cars hide rot unbelievably well, a tiny bubble on the scuttle, door shuts, sills, or front wings can mean serious corrosion in the structure, mine was pretty sound but many many have been caught out expensively.

Make sure it's a good 'un, if you end up with a decent one that works properly you'll fall in love, when 'right' they are just sensational, a dodgy one will cost you the purchase price in the first year easy..

Best advice is get onto impact bumpers www.impactbumpers.com/forum/index.php and ask there, a really sound forum with tons of practical help and a decent atmosphere..