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time to put your collective brains together, PLEASE. my ignition coil on the capri might be breaking down and I want to bosh another coil on from my "stocks" and try it. however, the capri was fitted with a ballasted coil from new. it has been fitted with lumenition (it was on when I bought the car) and the ballast resistor taken out the equation(sp), yet it still has a ballasted coil fitted. my question is, should it have a ballasted coil? because a ballasted coil on a non-ballast system should eventually fry, but is lumenition nearer to electronic ignition or points? needing different resistances across the coil. please help if you can, thanuverymush  heres some lowrider pics to make up the content of this thread....      consider that a bribe  ! |
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lumenition is electronic ignition.
A ballasted system has a coil that works on a lower voltage than 12V, the ballast drops the volts (i think its somwhere between 6 and 9V) for normal useage. When starting the voltage drops due to the starters massive current useage, this means that the ballast makes no difference and the coil still works to its full extent.
So if you remove it the coil will fry!
Coil problems are usually intermittant and hard to diagnose. What kind of lumenition system do you have? is it magnetroic or optronic?
J
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its optronic. and, yeah I thought it would fry, but its had a ballasted coil on since I've owned the car (4 years) and i've only just looked to see what coil it had fitted  so you recomend a lower resistance, electronic coil? I'll rob one of a beemer at work tomorrow thanks, blownimp  |
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Watch out for the optronic units, i have had three in a row fail brand new! so they can be a little dicky.
Oh and i think if you use a optrnic system you need the ballast setup? Makes sence if it helps with starting without any detrimental effects?
J
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Last Edit: Oct 9, 2006 20:32:16 GMT by Blown_Imp
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would there be any bad effects if I put an ordinary (3ohm) points coil on? it always starts easy, its the driving bit that it has problems with...... thanks again, mate |
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Careful, there are two types of Optronic. The standard and the performance versions. IIRC the standard runs with whatever coil came on the car (normally ballasted) and the performance runs a 12V coil. You could getaway with running the performance version of a ballasted coil but you would fry the ignition module jobby if you run an unballasted 12v coil on the standard
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pheonix; uballasted as in electronic (something like <1 ohm) or points type (around 3 ohm)  I always have trouble with electrickery. also, is there any way to tell the "standard" from the "performance" versions? thanks phoenixc |
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The ballast resistor is just a switched load to drop the voltage to the coil. A ballasted coil being designed to run at lower voltages
During cranking this ballast load is switched out and the coil sees the full battery voltage (whatever that may be under cranking - but it will be equal to or more than the ballast circuit voltage), so in theory you should get an equal or fatter spark as the coil is still seeing its' design voltage, regardless that the overall system voltage has dived due to the current draw of the starter.
A non-ballasted coil system on the other hand (running 12v all the time) will see less than 12V during cranking (and is operating below its design voltage), which is when you what the most energy out of it.
Doesn't Lumention just replace the points with an opto switch (and CDI)
I guess it depends what the CDI is kicking out to what coil should be used.
Can't you just stick a multimeter on the primary side of the coil and check the voltage?
That should tell you whether to use a 1.5 (ballasted) or 3 ohm (un-ballasted) coil.
I think.
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completly baffled and affraid i cant help in the slightest, but those rides ROCK!!!!!!!11one!
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 once again rocking with 1117cc and 4 gears! |
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thanks for the advice, guys! think I'll wack another ballast coil on, since the one thats on it has lasted this long. ta muchly |
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!
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I always have trouble with electrickery.
