JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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I'm quite (mechanically) inexperienced really, having only done a few minor bits, and wanna learn more, so have a few questions
1] i take it taking a car apart and putting it back together again (or at least trying to) is a fairly good way to learn? (rusty mk2 fiesta in this case). not proper resto, just experimenting and seeing what happens, scrapping the lot if i screw up. i understand how most stuff works, just lacking practical experience.
2] am i gonna need to get lots and lots of tools? got things like spanners sockets ramps axle stands screwdrivers drills etc gonna get an angle grinder and trolley jack anyway, i guess a torque wrench would be useful too.
3] are evening classes in car maintenance as low level as they sound? (changing a wheel etc)
4] how dangerous is it to your average slack jawed yokel?
5] would it be sacrilege to do a less than perfect job on a classic? ie buying one in need of repair and attempting to do it up, maybe odd bit of filler here and there and DIY spraycan matt black paintjob?
6] how hard/dangerous/time consuming is it learning to weld?
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B-8-D
Posted a lot
down to one car!!
Posts: 4,038
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its all about experience really. if u have had experience in "taking apart an old hoover to see how it works" or playing with leggo when younger... then u have the correct start!! my advice is to get a car that needs little to no work to make legal and start there. NON brake or stearing related first till u learn what is or isnt safe practice. if you are not sure of the work u have done just ask a local mechanic to give it a once over before u take it on the road..... just do some easy stuff first servicing. changing the brake pads.... fitting a different stearing wheel or seats etc... that i think is the best way to start.. there are eve classes or you could help out at the local garage for free every saterday for a for a payment of a little teaching.?? and as far as tools go buy cheep nasty ones and replace with good quality as and when they break!! si
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wow so many questions so little time lol 1-thats up to you,probably better if you had some sort of mentor,dad,mate brother to guide you
2 not really,just make sure you choose wisely and buy the best you can,halfords own brand are ok and affordable
3+6 if your near redhill or bromley speak to those colleges as they run/ran courses
4 expect blood loss and bruising but with some sensible precautions you'll live
5 best not to as it will only rear its head later and bite ya bum and or the person you sell it to will
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B-8-D
Posted a lot
down to one car!!
Posts: 4,038
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4 expect blood loss and bruising but with some sensible precautions you'll live ;D he he he...
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Some people learn different ways, I have done other subjects at college, although i thought i knew the basics a refresher helps and good to see others techniques, so thats upto you, most just get stuck in, motivation patience, determination and some thought go a long way. don't forget safety like. most accidents happen at home due to making up our own rules and cutting corners!! Tools: I have only ever in the past had old curse word or cheap curse word and its a big false economy IMO, I wonder how i fixed old bikes and bodges on old cars. build up bit by bit a modest tool kit, Sockets, spanners, screwdrivers, HAMMERS!!! etc all quality stuff, i hear halfords pro tools are good from here, and don't forget the WD40/GT85. And learn as you go taking reference from here, mags, books and attempting to visualise how stuff works. Learning welding is an advantage, but i'm yet to do that. Se my readers rides thread on my MR2 and others projects to see how people get on. Mr Bo11ox's gearbox change is good too!
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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I'm in the same boat mate apart I'm 10 months down the line from where ur starting, i bought a mini, ive made the brakes work, new rear brake cylinder, hanbrake cable. Ive ftted a new radiator, steering wheel and pedals, chrome mirrors, tidied some dodgy looking wiring up and now I'm about to fit a rc40 exhaust. lucky i have a dad and a mate who are well up to speed with the car stuff so they look it over or help out. it takes a bit of sitting and watching at first but u eventually shove them out of the way and get stuck in.
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mk2 fiesta is a good start nice and simple bits for them are plentyfull and theres enough of them just to scrap it if you mess up.........scrap it and buy a mk1 anyway
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once again rocking with 1117cc and 4 gears!
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just jump in head first mate, u wont end up scraping it.
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having to fix a car rather than tinkering for the sake of it is the way most people learn
do the college thing too
its all practice and experience - the more you do it the more you remember
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2001 HONDA CT110 (NOT RCV)
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One thing check how bad the rust is in critical areas, get the badboy stripped down, my mk1 was full of holes, not one person would agree its worth fixing, it wasnt, so have a look and work it out. solid Mk2's are a good fun economical cars
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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Ah well everyone has posted what I was going to say so I won't bother Just buy the rotter and GET IN THERE!!!
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with regard to tools.... don't do what I do and aim to spend as little as possible. get Halfords Pro stuff and if you break it, you just take it back and exchange it. And get the right tool for the job.... finding a 1/2" spanner in the bottom of your grandfathers toolbox is not the bargain you think it is when confronted with a 12mm nut, and your broken knuckles will prove it Stuff like jacks, ramps and stands buy new and buy a decent make - you head will not support a car. Otherwise bargains can often be had at carboot sales, when some disgruntled wife gets rid of her husbands entire toolset to make him spend more sundays in the house. I saw a roller-drawer chest full of sockets, spanners, wrenches and other useful stuff for £40 at the weekend.... the chest alone will cost you that from halfords. don't worry about 'bodging' a classic - very few cars make it to concours condition and most of us here will admit to the odd skim of filler and a bit of matt here and there to hide a few sins. As long as you're happy with it, and as long as it's safe, then it's fine. The MoT is your friend so don't try to bodge your way through that with underseal and distracting the tester
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Never trust a man Who names himself Trevor. Or one day you might find He's not a real drug dealer.
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1] i take it taking a car apart and putting it back together again (or at least trying to) is a fairly good way to learn? (rusty mk2 fiesta in this case). not proper resto, just experimenting and seeing what happens, scrapping the lot if i screw up. i understand how most stuff works, just lacking practical experience.
Restore it. On a budget. Learn as you go along. Just "seeing how it goes together" won;t get you that far as you'll run out of motivation and it will seem too hard.
2] am i gonna need to get lots and lots of tools? got things like spanners sockets ramps axle stands screwdrivers drills etc gonna get an angle grinder and trolley jack anyway, i guess a torque wrench would be useful too.
I started with a 1/2 socket set, some cheap screwdrivers from the petrol station, some made in china ring spanners and what ever I could filch out of my dads tool box when I was still at home. Cars come with jacks, but you'll need axle stands. Don;t buy dodgy ones fromt he car boot, get decent ones. Build up what you need as you go along. Or get a big assed Mechanics Set from Sealey or somewhere, everything you'll never need all in one box for like £200.
3] are evening classes in car maintenance as low level as they sound? (changing a wheel etc)
Some are, some aren't. Ask. Most will let you work on your own car and will let you go at your own pace. I did one and when people were still on week three of how to change a wheel I was borrowing their crypton tuner to set my Viva up.
4] how dangerous is it to your average slack jawed yokel?
How dangerous is what? Going to college?
5] would it be sacrilege to do a less than perfect job on a classic? ie buying one in need of repair and attempting to do it up, maybe odd bit of filler here and there and DIY spraycan matt black paintjob?
Its far better to bodge one up and use it than it is to leave it rotting in a field or let it get banger raced.
6] how hard/dangerous/time consuming is it learning to weld? Not hard, not that dangerous (remember to use goggles and remove anything combustible from the area you are welding, thats about it). Doesn't tka elong to learn to do it acceptably. Takes a long time to learn to do it well. Again, you can go to college for this. The thing you NEED NEED NEED to learn is how to ensure the weld has penetrated. So long as your welds are right through they are good. I've seen some horrors of metal plates held together by melted mig wire and little else...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,538
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Only thing I'll add to what has been said is that you'd be better off starting with a car you care about rather than something that's just lying around. If you want to do the Mk2 Fiesta up then great but, if it's not really your bag, then try finding something cheap that does take your fancy as you will have more motivation to get it going and fix it up. Less than perfect job on a resto sacrilege? Man I'd be in trouble! DO IT!
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Thanks for the replies, a lot of useful info there One thing check how bad the rust is in critical areas, get the badboy stripped down, my mk1 was full of holes, not one person would agree its worth fixing, it wasnt, so have a look and work it out. solid Mk2's are a good fun economical cars not too good, sills are rusted through, rear arches pretty bad Restore it. On a budget. Learn as you go along. Just "seeing how it goes together" won;t get you that far as you'll run out of motivation and it will seem too hard. most of it is not too bad really other than the rust and being standing for a while.
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go for it then.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Rob
Posted a lot
You know, for kids!
Posts: 2,515
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5] would it be sacrilege to do a less than perfect job on a classic? ie buying one in need of repair and attempting to do it up, maybe odd bit of filler here and there and DIY spraycan matt black paintjob? erm.. are you having a go ?
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Post up some pictures of this fiesta. don't forget they are still cheap if it will take Looaaads of work and welding etc you may be better off finding a solid granny one, and use yours as a donor. i only say this cos i wasted too long on my rot box so check floor pans and boot floor inner wings etc,, see how bad it is exactly. then get stuck in you got nowt to lose.
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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i find the best tools are the second hand ones found on car boots, the type that have stood the test of time for 5 decades and are going strong - usually real cheap too
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JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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erm.. are you having a go ? not talking about the fiesta here btw, i wouldn't worry about bodging the hell out of that! i mean later on if i get something nicer and rarer, like a mk1 capri or a yank tank muscle car. bit pricier i know, even for a rough one, but i REALLY want one! the fester in question was my first car, now technically owned by my brother but never really used, been stood for a few years, and run only very occasionally. think the rest should be in ok condition, looked very nice when we got it (7-8 years ago now) virtually mint. the rust seemed to suddenly surface though. are sills the kinda thing that shouldn't be done my an inexperienced welder? i'm guessing that would be the case cos it's structural.
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