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hi, need help on removing wheel studs, austin 10 hubs. do these need pressing out? unscrew? not a very good pic. cheers chris.
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I normally fit the nut on ( to protect the thread ) then give them a few firm taps with the hammer and they should tap straight through.
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i tried that, dare'nt hit it any harder, stud has not got a normal mushroom back on it.
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It might be threaded on thread lock lock two nuts together?
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Feb 10, 2012 23:05:15 GMT
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They look like they're screwed in and peened over at the back which is the cross on the end of the stud i'm guessing. If the studs are scrap, then I'd centre punch the back of the stud and drill them out slightly smaller than the stud dia, that way they should come loose then you'll find out if they're splined or threaded in.
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cheers, ended up thinking that way as well.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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wheel stud removalDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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yeah, as described above, they're basically rivetted in. quite common on pre-war cars (my rover p2 axle is like this), but a PITA as you destroy em to get em out.
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Last Edit: Feb 11, 2012 0:55:59 GMT by Dez
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Feb 11, 2012 23:28:24 GMT
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dez, once removed would normal studs fit? (7/16") as the hub itself is in 2 parts and not that thick.
cheers chris.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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wheel stud removalDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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i guess you want to use standard small ford 7/16" press-in studs? providing you can drill it to the correct size, and the back surface is flat for them to seat on (not sloped/tapered/etc.) then yes thatll be fine.
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Feb 12, 2012 18:09:04 GMT
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well they're out, drilled the peened over bit, crank the molegrips on and they came undone realy easy!!!! once drilled the studs will sit lovely, as theres plenty of meat there, also flat. not got a picture of the back. (doh!!!) cheers everyone.
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