andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,220
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Hit a minor problem with my conversion, the sump of the new engine needs to be where the steering rack is!
So I'm thinking of lowering the crossmember that the rack and suspension hang on by about a inch and half, I've found steering arms that'll cope and avoid too much bump steer.
I'm going to cut the ends of the crossmember, then box where the cuts are with flat plate, then with the middle section lower then the ends (the middle has the rack mounts on) weld the flat plates together, so the crossmember now has a U shape in it's middle.
May add some stiffening gussets to the flat plates too.
Is this a plan or something stupid? And do you know of a better way to lower the crossmember, don't really want to put spacers between the body and crossmember, an inch and half extra gap between the wheel and arch will look odd!
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Can't you just simply modificate the oil sump for clearance? Would be a) easyer if possible and b) not messing with structural parts  |
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Copey
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,845
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i agree, notch the sump mate
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1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire GLSi with 2.0 Zetec
1985 Ford Capri 3.0 (was a 2.0 Laser originally)
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Plus... chopping up the big steel sump, would be FAR easier than modifying lots of different bits on the car  Plus all you'd need extra, is a bit of sheet steel, compared to lots of bits of steel, the steering arms you recommended/etc |
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You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,220
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No, can't alter the sump.
It's aluminum and it's also the highest point of the sump, the low part of the sump sits behind the crossmember.
It's just that the steering rack is quite a bit higher than the crossmember.
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can you not raise the engine ??
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 1995 mk3 cavalier 1.8i 1972 1200 beetle 2010 1.2 fiat 500 "sometime's" 2000 suzuki gsxr 600 srad |
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,220
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Not without a big bulge in the bonnet?
Can't see why I shouldn't cut and shut the crossmember, it won't be that much lower and with the different steering arms the geometry won't change.
It's not welded in place, just 4 bolts at each side.
I'm sure it won't be weaker, it's not made from very thick steel in the first place!
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jonah
Part of things
Posts: 36
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Is the 5 series sump no help?
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Seeing the crossmember bolts in why not make some spacers to lower it and use longer bolts ?
Clearance will be no worse than if you cut and reweld.
Paul H
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Lowered Crossmember, How?stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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What car is it? The steering arms don't effect geometry it's the relationship between the pivots if you move one pivot and not the other it will affect something
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Umm..... Is this the PAS version or the manual steering? From your X-member pic I'm thinking PAS 'cause mine doesn't look like that.
My first thought is that packing the whole X-member down has it's attractions as this will maintain the relationship with the TCA pivot points as you pointed out in the main thread.......
.......my second thought is that 1.5" is rather alot. Do you really need all that? If it's between this and propshaft angle (mentioned in your main thread) then I'd make this the priority if you can reduce this number. If you could get the drop to 1/2 - 3/4" then I'd definitely take the packing route.
Some pics, including the rack, in this thread would help the thought process.
Cheers
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Plus all you'd need extra, is a bit of sheet steel, compared to lots of bits of steel, the steering arms you recommended/etc
