johnna
Part of things
Posts: 46
|
|
|
|
|
I am the new registered keeper of a hated Mk3 golf which has a 1.4 ABD engine. The documents provided suggest the car has a CWM gearbox.
The Haynes book of lies describes two clutch types, one with a flywheel bolted to the crankshaft the other with the pressure plate mounted to the crankshaft.
I deduce my gearbox will be the 085 type. It will therefore be a conventional fly wheel on crank affair. Actuation is via a self adjusting cable.
Do I sound correct so far?
Now, to the problem...
lifting off from a stand still is okay, but needs a few extra revs. I can see the clutch is slipping.
However, the clutch seems to slip when I accelerate in 3rd and 4th gear also.
My big questions- is there a clutch ins pection aperture whereby I can check for oil contamination?
Does this sound like a new clutch kit?
Or a new flywheel?
Is there anyway to indicate one over the other?
I do appreciate the best diagnosis is to strip it down and inspect closely, but I'd like to buy the parts before the strip down.
Experienced views are welcome.
|
| |
Last Edit: Feb 15, 2012 9:06:34 GMT by johnna
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The only real way to tell if a clutch is contaminated is by removing the gearbox and inspecting it. If you have excess engine oil coming down from between the sump & gearbox then its most likely contaminated. If you clutch is slipping why are you needing more revs to pull away? Generally would would need less if it were slipping! Are you confusing dragging with slipping??? Try to explain exactly whats happening  Having said that those self adjusting cables on MK3 Golfs are JUNK, and can make a clutch feel very weird! For the sake of the cost of one its worth changing anyway, and then go from there. |
| |
|
|
hkr91
South East
Posts: 559
|
|
|
|
|
I seemed to have this too (we changed two clutches and bought a new cable (we managed to break the cable) - they've got self adjusting cables right?)
|
| |
|
|
johnna
Part of things
Posts: 46
|
|
|
|
|
Sorry folks, expressed myself poorly.
When I drive and seek to accelerate in 3rd or fourth, the revs go up quickly, but the actual car speed does not. If I am less brutal on the throttle, the car eventually gets there.
The pedal feel is curse word! It is buried deep into the carpet and there seems to be no real resistance under the foot, as if there is no return spring or other mechanism.
Although I know a new cable is a fiddle I'd be overjoyed if that was the sole issue.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The symptoms you have described sound like a classic case of a worn out clutch.
If the clutch is badly worn, the pedal will be low and its travel short.
A contaminated clutch however would retain a normal pedal travel and feel.
There is a plastic inspection plug on the top of the bellhousing, right over the flywheel. If you remove the cap you might be able to see if there is any obvious oil contamination.
It is probably worth replacing the cable first though as a matter of course.
|
| |
|
|
johnna
Part of things
Posts: 46
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks, I thought that would be the case.
|
| |
|
|
johnna
Part of things
Posts: 46
|
|
|
|
|
Well that was fun! I've updated the title just in case others search for info on this engine/ box combo that seems to not really be covered by the Haynes comic.
The engine does have a flywheel inspection aperture at the bottom of the bellhousing, needing only one 10mm screw removing.
My best advice is to remove the engine and box as one using a crane. I'm lucky enough to have one, but you can hire them and with this job it should be a one day hire.
The starter motor is on the back (inlet) side of the engine and is difficult to see let alone access.
Further to this, the clutch removal/ fitting is so much easier with the engine out.
Despite the nonsense In the manual, it is not necessary to remove the bonnet, or indeed the front panel, or the subframe...
This type of gear change linkage is not covered either. It is a single rod with ball and socket affair. I had a lot of trial fitting with varied success...
"All the right gears, not necessarily in the right order..."
I got my wife to hold the lever in the neutral position as I manipulated the ball joint into what I thought was neutral and we worked from there.
I was worried about oil contamination, but the clutch was nice and dry. My oil leak seems to be from my oil pressure sender, which will be replaced soon.
The driveshafts are held on with six splined bolts which are difficult to access.
|
| |
|
|
RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
|
|
Feb 15, 2012 18:57:15 GMT
|
|
Glad you got it sorted
Leaky oil pressure sensors, and rounded drive-shaft-flange bolts are common issues on these (bolts made of cheese combined with poor access, and people using allen-keys in them). I've had each on various VW's.
Me and a friend did manage to swap a clutch in his sisters one of these without taking out the engine at all. We dropped the box out the bottom with the engine in place, it wasn't too tricky if I'm remembering right, we started it after college one evening, then him and another friend finished it off in the morning once he'd picked up some more parts. It was a wriggle to get the box out with the engine in there, but possible on just axle stands.
|
| |
Last Edit: Feb 15, 2012 18:57:36 GMT by RobinJI
|
|
