OUTRUN
Part of things
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Jan 31, 2012 23:30:31 GMT
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I have a set of doors for my Volvo from a car I part purchased (for said doors), and as the shell is away at the moment, my attention has turned to them. As can be seen, they aren't free from tin worm, but given they are 30 years old, then I can't complain too much. Still yet to see behind the frames/seals on the other door (that's tomorrow), but here's where I am for now:    Damage cut out  So, any ideas on how to repair this, or even if I need to? I was thinking of just leaving it and treating with deox gel then painting it. The vast majority of that is under the window seals, hence the damage. So am I right in thinking that I can do without those sections and that the window rubber will still provide a watertight seal? If not, I bought this fella to hopefully assist me:  Although having since looked at the door again, I was quite pleased to see the rust localised to the 'flat' section in the pictures, so if it does need to be replaced then it shouldn't be too bad to do. Now for the bottoms. Stripped the seam sealer and paint/rust away and it doesn't look 'so' bad, right?       Where the skin has rusted away from the door bottom, I was thinking of cleaning up with Deox gel and further with the grinder, then using seal sealer to rejoin the panels, and obviously weld up the rust holes. Is this the way to roll? I am but a n00b at this, and bow to the great skill and experience that a lot of RR'ers posess! |
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I need your help to get back to the year 1985.
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OUTRUN
Part of things
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Posts: 620
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Jan 31, 2012 23:32:04 GMT
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and a couple to show what is covered and what is not when fully assembled.    Cheers, Liam. |
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I need your help to get back to the year 1985.
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speedy88
Club Retro Rides Member
"Nice Cortina mate"
Posts: 2,302
Club RR Member Number: 118
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Door rust repairing?speedy88
@speedy88
Club Retro Rides Member 118
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Jan 31, 2012 23:41:14 GMT
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I didn't have anything in the corners of my rear doors which was hidden under the seals. Nobody was any the wiser, I even forgot about it until I next had them off. Just threat the metal and you'll be fine.
BTW, was this the GLS from the scrapyard in the NW?
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OUTRUN
Part of things
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Posts: 620
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Jan 31, 2012 23:52:47 GMT
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Alright Sceney!
Nah this is the Y plate 343 that VND and I drove down to York for. Ended up with FJ, and we scrapped it!
That's good to hear! No leaks then? Your Volvo sense is strong, must be able to sniff out the posts! lol
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I need your help to get back to the year 1985.
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OUTRUN
Part of things
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Posts: 620
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Up.
Anyone had any experience?
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I need your help to get back to the year 1985.
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yer, once door has got rust in it you'll never get it out completely so id just tidy them up with rust eater and paint, could wax the inside to last a bit longer, probably wouldn't bother welding the bottom up either. Then keep eye out for a soild pair to replace when they get really rough  |
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OUTRUN
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Cheers mate. It's not ideal tbh, as I am restoring the car atm. So running sub-standard doors is a bit curse word. However, I have no choice as I will never find a clean pair. I had a donor pair and they were well and truely finished!
Cheers, Liam.
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I need your help to get back to the year 1985.
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For pinhole type rust don't ignor using good old lead for filling. As long as the metal around is spotlessly clean then tinning will stop further rust and then allow the actual application of lead to fill the holes.
You need proper tinning paste - available from engineering merchants.
Brush on, heat until it melts then wipe off with cloth. Lead (I use plumbers sticks) then easilly attaches.
Google "lead loading".
Never, ever, use power tools on lead though - always hand tools only as the dust is dangerous.
Paul H
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speedy88
Club Retro Rides Member
"Nice Cortina mate"
Posts: 2,302
Club RR Member Number: 118
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Door rust repairing?speedy88
@speedy88
Club Retro Rides Member 118
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Alright Sceney! Nah this is the Y plate 343 that VND and I drove down to York for. Ended up with FJ, and we scrapped it! That's good to hear! No leaks then? Your Volvo sense is strong, must be able to sniff out the posts! lol No, I had leaks at the top though but that was due to the trim poking out. The way I understand it, if the wind is given a flat surface (as the trim covers a hole, its flat) then it has nothing to get turbulent over. If the wind could "find" its way under the trim and to the holes, then it would be able to "find" its way all the way around to the top anyway. Also remember that between the trim and the inside is still the window which insulates sound further. As for the posts... I just spend too much time on RR ;D |
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Last Edit: Feb 2, 2012 19:07:26 GMT by speedy88
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Do it properly, replace the cut out steel at the top with new metal, making sure all corroded metal is removed. Make templates out of card, once happy with the templates, copy to steel and slowly weld in. It will make the door weaker and increased water ingress will be a definite if you leave it as it is. As for the bottom, the bottom of the door needs replacing, and you'll need to replace sections of the skin, on the inner edge.
Now that's all if you want to do it properly, so it won't come back quickly. I don't know what availability is like for doors for your car, but if you can find a better one then it would save you a days work.
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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OUTRUN
Part of things
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I much prefer the idea of these being repaired properly. Peter, your suggestion is right on the nose. Only issue is, I can't do this myself to a sufficient standard. I am happy to pay for someone like yourself to repair them though. I prefer doing things myself when I can, but this time I know I can't lol.
Know of anyone around the North East that's any good mate? Or do you fancy taking it on for me? Bit of a trek for me, but for the right job it would be worth it!
The chance of getting better doors in the earlier, quaterlight style like these is next to impossible - and my Google is strong! lol
Cheers mate, Liam.
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I need your help to get back to the year 1985.
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IThe chance of getting better doors in the earlier, quaterlight style like these is next to impossible - and my Google is strong! lol Have you looked outside the UK ? Maybe places like Italy, Greece, Spain and such hot countries might have rot free doors ? Not such a silly idea as courier services within EU countries can be quite reasonable making collection in person unnecessary. You could always bring some back from holiday albeit paying extra for cargo (rather than luggage). Having a professional repair the doors to mint conditon could cost several hundred pounds so spending a similar amount on transporting rot free used could be viable. Another though is have you priced them up new ? I'd expect dear but unless you enquire you never know whether somebody has a NOS pair sitting on a shelf somewhere. I managed to get a pair of NOS doors for my Lancia HPE by simply asking around the various dealers thoughout the UK to check the part numbers against thier stock after Lancia said no longer available. I also only paid a fraction of the original price. Paul H |
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I much prefer the idea of these being repaired properly. Peter, your suggestion is right on the nose. Only issue is, I can't do this myself to a sufficient standard. I am happy to pay for someone like yourself to repair them though. I prefer doing things myself when I can, but this time I know I can't lol. Know of anyone around the North East that's any good mate? Or do you fancy taking it on for me? Bit of a trek for me, but for the right job it would be worth it! The chance of getting better doors in the earlier, quaterlight style like these is next to impossible - and my Google is strong! lol Cheers mate, Liam. I would happily do it for you, but I doubt if it would be cost effective! Probably cheaper to go on Swedish eBay (if such a thing exists) and get a good one shipped. If you can't find one anywhere, drop me a PM and we can discuss it. |
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1989 Mini MG 1275 ~ 1987 VW Polo ~ 1989 Citroen 2CV ~ 1998 VW T4 ~ 2006 Volvo XC70
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OUTRUN
Part of things
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Posts: 620
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Guess my reply never posted on here the other day! :/
I am on the search for new/better doors Peter, and in touch with a couple of the local fabricators on here, but keep that inbox empty eh! lol
Cheers, Liam.
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I need your help to get back to the year 1985.
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Somebody pointed me at this thread (you know who you are - I thank you kindly and would normally be interested but I'm moving house so it's hectic here) I'm not an expert, happy doing DIY & car mot work, couple of ideas below might help  Door tops - not too difficult, good to see you've cut out what's poor. Suggest you don't do more yet but if I was doing repair I'd look at cutting it deeper (remove a bit more under the window rubber) so you can weld onto a flat bit of door - not into the bottom of the "V". Door bottoms - not so simple. Maybe peel back edge of skin so you can get at door and it's easier - but also a lot more work afterwards to put skin back tidy??? ... or ... you might be able to cut bottom rot out without disturbing the skin, easy to weld new metal in if you cut on the flat, no need to disturb the skin? Hope you get sorted  |
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Just back from having a look at these, they say the camera never lies but ...  It was a good excuse to have a run out and it's always good to meet up with folk around the area, the banter and coffee was just a bonus Top of the worst door is now done & the mirror mounting holes got welded up on the way past ;D Took a few pics, shame most are so blurred they're useless  Rusted bottom of door has been cut out without disturbing the door skin, remains dug out of the return at the bottom of the skin, and a new "L" shaped plate tacked in place on the door bottom and plug welded to the return edge of the doorskin. Then ran out of time but it's all ready for the next session - watch this space  Todays top tip ? On the door bottom, cut the repair oversize, then used a narrow cutting disk to cut the doorskin to suit - it leaves a nice little gap to fill with weld |
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VND
Posted a lot
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Top work Nomad. Very tidy.
Remind me never to play "Operation" (MB games) against you!
Skills.
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Nice work Nomad, that should clean up a treat
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Feb 24, 2012 20:12:46 GMT
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....that should clean up a treat It did Very happy with the door bottoms - shame nobody will ever see them  Results below after dressing the weld, before tidying the return lip on the door skin.   Also mirror holes filled, rot cut out and new patch cut ready to fit   Have been between houses so no internet access hence the slow replies The lastest pics are not mine, full credit to the in-house photographer, I think I'll stick to waving a welding gun in future and let other folk take the pictures ;D Now too hectic to be looking for work but recently moved towards Newcastle and happy to help out if I can. |
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Feb 24, 2012 21:16:41 GMT
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This is something I need to address with my Vito's side door it has a rather large hole in the bottom  |
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Some days you just need to take a grinder to an inanimate object, just to make your day a tiny bit better!!
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Door tops - not too difficult, good to see you've cut out what's poor. 
