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Jan 30, 2012 18:25:21 GMT
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The headlining on my mk2 Golf is sagging at the back. I've tried Evostik impact spray glue, looked great.....next morning, SAGGING AGAIN.
Couple of weeks later, cleaned it all off, hoovered it all off, made sure it was warm etc. Evostiked it again, looked great, next day....SAGGING AGAIN.
I followed the instructions etc etc.
Now, I know people will say "get a new headlining" but I want to try and fix it before I get my pants pulled down by some breaker asking STUPID, ASTRONOMICAL prices for VW parts. I like to fix things myself too.
Anyone got any good advice?
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1993 Mercedes-Benz 190e LE in Azzuro Blue.
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Jan 31, 2012 11:55:40 GMT
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Was it proper spray contact adhesive? Longish shot as it's unlikely to be a temperature thing I suppose, but there are "high temp" contact glues for upholstery etc. I use them doing bike seats as the std stuff can let go when warm.
Can also get brushable tins but it's thick syrupy old stuff.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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alx
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 367
Club RR Member Number: 21
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Jan 31, 2012 12:33:51 GMT
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Might be worth 'propping' something against the headlining to keep it in place whilst the glue cures.
Dunno how you'd do it for a full headlining but some Heath-Robinson contraption consisting of broom handles, boards and cushions springs into my head.....maybe I've just got malaria ;D
HTH
AL
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Jan 31, 2012 16:54:56 GMT
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I got this stuff to stick the bonnet insulation back on my Jaaaaag (recommended by the main dealer, who helpfully doesn't sell it!)  Not too stinky, and worked well. I used the "Two cheap yardbrushes" technique to hold it on while the glue dried. I got in from evilBay for a tenner delivered, and still have quite a lot of it left. |
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Jan 31, 2012 16:58:56 GMT
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How does this technique work?
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1993 Mercedes-Benz 190e LE in Azzuro Blue.
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Jan 31, 2012 17:20:09 GMT
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^ Top the handle on the ground, the brush head on the bit you want to hold, leave there until the glue is set. It'll be a bit more tricky for you to achieve as you're gonna be working inside the car.
A plasterer's float with a chamois leather over it to protect your headcloth might be an idea for you. You could then sit in the car for half an hour and just keep pressing down across the length and breadth of the headcloth until the glue sets.
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Jan 31, 2012 20:31:49 GMT
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if your following the indtructions rght, you shouldnt need to hold it as its contact adhesive so grabs upon contact with the other surface. spread the glue thinly and evenly on both surfaces, wait for to dry then push together. i use the solvent brushable version for kitchen worktop edgings and its instant if you allow both surfaces to dry before joining them, if you rush it and push them together before the solvents dry out it takes ages to dry (but may be different for fabrics)
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BiAS
Club Retro Rides Member
Insert witty comment here
Posts: 2,231
Club RR Member Number: 147
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Jan 31, 2012 22:31:03 GMT
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^^You're bang on the money, works exactly the same with headliners.Should be dry before you push it together. Never had a Golf headliner before but some cars have a layer of very thin foam between the cloth and the moulded bit which decomposes causing the sagging. This stuff is a complete nightmare to get stuck back together. Or take it out, strip all the cloth off, buy some fur and put that in instead  3 of us soldering these in for 10 hours................  To end up with this.........   |
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(car+wheels)-rideheight=WIN
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BT
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,772
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Jan 31, 2012 22:46:46 GMT
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This is going to sound really stupid but it really did work.
My pals mini was super loud, so we stuck some sound deadening (the big old felty/fluffy stuff) to his roof with... expanding foam!
Did this last January, still there now!
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I've got a few days off work so I'll be getting some glue remover and giving it a good clean before my next attempt.
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1993 Mercedes-Benz 190e LE in Azzuro Blue.
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alx
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 367
Club RR Member Number: 21
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if your following the indtructions rght, you shouldnt need to hold it as its contact adhesive so grabs upon contact with the other surface. spread the glue thinly and evenly on both surfaces, wait for to dry then push together. I use the solvent brushable version for kitchen worktop edgings and its instant if you allow both surfaces to dry before joining them, if you rush it and push them together before the solvents dry out it takes ages to dry (but may be different for fabrics) Agreed, contact adhesive does grab when you wait for both sides to dry but it doesn't reach full strength straight away. For an edging on a worktop this probably isn't a problem as it's not a great deal of weight but with a large headliner I think that gravity would be working it's naughtiness on it before the glue is at full strength. I reckon you're best bet is a compilation of all the recommendations above and go for: 1. Damn good prep and clean of the areas 2. Glue up both surfaces and wait to dry as per instructions 3. Lob the headliner up and smooth into all the corners etc. 4. Get some form of propping-up device set up that spreads a nice amount of pressure over as big an area of the headliner as possible and leave for 24hrs if you can. 5. If that don't do it, concede defeat and retire to the pub. AL. |
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use evostik on my wedge for door cards, trim panels,
curse word, gonna have to do it again. these things are vertically placed
not horizontal and it still came away. you need hi temp stuff,
they didn't last a couple of years, only bit that stayed put was glued
direct to the metal, not to board or foam. harrumph !
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I've tried with Evostik twice now. Haven't had a chance to have another crack at it yet. Ideally, I want something which will just stick it quickly, I will scour B&Q and other such places!
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1993 Mercedes-Benz 190e LE in Azzuro Blue.
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I'd get a proper contact glue from an upholstery place, doesn't cost any more than the high street stuff and you know it's the right stuff.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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