Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,513
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Jan 29, 2012 10:18:00 GMT
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I need to remove a coupe of unbroken head studs from a block. Double nut trick isn't working. Is this sort of thing worth trying or does anyone have any alternative suggestions? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330661406092The engine in question.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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Jan 29, 2012 10:39:42 GMT
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Have you got a welder??
Welding a nut then letting it cool works well as the heat releases the rust inside the block.
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,513
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Jan 29, 2012 11:25:58 GMT
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I could weld a nut on but I don't really want to ruin the studs and also the thread ends about 4" from the top of the block.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Jan 29, 2012 11:33:18 GMT
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I use one of those removal tools quite often. Quite effective tbh. Use as close to the face of the block as possible to eliminate the torsional spring and therefore reduced effort being applied. Be warned tho, if the studs are a little soft it can mark/deform them quite badly, tho usually that happens on a stud that's been untouched for 60 years!
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Jan 29, 2012 11:36:05 GMT
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double-nut, then get a breaker bar on it. All other methods will damage the stud. But if it's siezed in place, the threads will no doubt be damaged upon removal anyway
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Removing (unbroken) studs10mpg
@10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member 204
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Jan 29, 2012 12:00:54 GMT
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I use these, I have a snap on set, you have to use the right sized one for the stud otherwise you mark it, tbh there is still a small mark if the studs are particularly tight but the studs are still perfectly usable afterwards, and you can always run a die down the threads as you should anyway before rebuilding to ensure correct torque figures...
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Last Edit: Jan 29, 2012 12:01:24 GMT by 10mpg
The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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Jan 29, 2012 12:18:00 GMT
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These chew up the stud. OK if you are replacing but not if you wnat to reuse them. The type indicated by 10MPG is the best type if the two nut's method doesen't work. To be honest have you priced up buying new studs ? You might find it's actually cheaper than a decent stud remover meaning you can then used welded on nut, stillsons etc to remove the old ones. Be careful though as I've snapped off studs many times and PIA to remove if clean with the block. If stripped down try putting the block into the domestic oven and try two nut method again. Paul H
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Jan 29, 2012 12:23:28 GMT
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Heat, penetrating oil and mole grips always did the trick on my engines You can put the mole grip close to the block surface, lesser risk of bending the stud. I've used a BIG pipe wrench to tighten the mole grips REALY tight. If the mole grip slips, it damages the stud, though... You can also try to put a nut on top of the stud (to protect it) and whack it with a hammer, to brake loose the rust in the thread.
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,513
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Jan 29, 2012 16:06:36 GMT
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Thanks for the various tips. Managed to speak to the guy who is going to arrange my machining earlier and he said they can sort out getting the studs out so probably not worth my efforts.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Jan 29, 2012 16:54:53 GMT
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IME any method other than the 2 nut one will damage the stud, i allways wind on 1 nut then give the end of the stud a sharp tap woth a med sized hammer to shock the threads loose, wether i'm stripping an ally head for scrap or a head to rebuild 99% of the time it works fine on un broken studs
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R.I.P photobucket
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