Ball Joints

If you're renewing the joint just get a ratchet on the nut then hit the other side of the joint with a hammer whilst undoing usually enough to get it off.

All that needs to happen is that the tapered shaft locks into position tighter.

I recently had to change the wheel bearings on the Golf. The ball joint nuts came off easy, they were spinning when I put them back on though, so I just clamped it with mole grips and tightened it that way.

A little heat on the nut will help it along, or a very large set of grips crushing the shaft into the shank to stop it spinning (similar to putting a jack on an inverted balljoint)

Thank you all for your replies!

I am hoping that it is a pretty straight forward job. I am determined to get it done pretty effectively.

I have considered some mole grips on the end of the stud!



Thanks again Mystery Machine! Full of helpful knowledge!

The car got dropped with me earlier this evening before a trip to the pub. It is getting collected on Sunday so I have a few days with the car. I am hoping to get the ball joints out of the way nice and early tomorrow morning.

I did think that the last resort would be removing the nut with a small slit along the nut but like you say this would be a absolute last resort.

I will be sure to update this thread with any problems or success'

Ones like that shudnt spin that easy if u clean the thread up, its one with nylock nuts on that can be a pain.

if it does spin, and its the same as the one in the picture, i always have the car on an axle stand so the suspension is fully extended then get a piece of wood put on top of the balljoint, then other end goes to something solid(usually just inner arch), then use the jack to jack the suspension up so all of the cars weight is in that balljoint, always seems to do the trick. If not its time for heat.

PROTIP. Tighten it a bit before loosening. It'll get the threads moving and free, and pull the taper in even tighter to help stop it spinning.

As above, it's not a nylock, which is good news. Again, as above, Oil and a good wire brushing first make a massive difference. It'll probably come off without much aggravation if you clean it up first. Make sure you do!

If you have any trouble getting the taper separated, don't try and hammer it out by hitting the end of the thread upwards. It'll jolly pain in the backside the thread and won't get you anywhere fast.

You need to hit the steering arm here:



Hit it as hard as you can with your biggest hammer. After a few solid blows it'll pop the taper out, undamaged. I spent years ruining threads before I learned this trick and it has changed my life.


With any joint like this, I always cover the threads in a big dab of grease after reassembly. Copper grease if you have some, but anything will do. It'll make your life a lot easier in the future.

perhaps its me, perhaps its late, but that looks like a track rod end to me,

anyhow, remove splilt pin, remove nut fully (wire brush, wd40 optional) put the nut back on for a couple of threads (to protect the threads from slipping hammers etc)

i have a 3/4 inch round bar about a foot in length, couple of smacks with a lump hammer on the thoughtfully placed star, will see it cracked in no time

most track rods ends can be locked by a pair of mole grips on the shaft of the track rod end, and pushed down, this will stop the threaded taper from spinning, or placing a jack on the bottom as someone else suggested

cant give advice on ball joint removal/fitting, as i cant see one, however jacking up underneath the bottom of the ball joint will stop it spinning when refitting

copper slip as above, even on cars that aren't yours, as they are likely to come back for more work

Yes, yes it is, have a star
what is on the end of a track rod end? A BALL JOINT
and you'll never guess (what rob? tell us, tell us) on the end of a track control arm there is another BALL JOINT
ok lessons in sarcasm and the names of car parts over with for the day