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I won't be there when you cross the road, so always use the Green Cross Code.
Posts: 3,037
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Sept 26, 2006 22:03:16 GMT
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Having a bit of a prob with the tick over on the ZS. It's a bit high - around 2000 rpm. Now the 40's seem to have a screw on the linkage between them that I can turn to slow the tick over down but if I do it slowly creeps back up again. I thought I read here that in fact this screw is not the idle spped screw but something else. Can anyone suggest the best way to get the idle down or if it IS the idle screw why the idle should slowly creep back up again.
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Sept 26, 2006 22:28:41 GMT
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sounds like an air leak to me, check all the manifold gaskets etc
J
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Shortcut
Posted a lot
I won't be there when you cross the road, so always use the Green Cross Code.
Posts: 3,037
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Sept 27, 2006 7:18:01 GMT
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bit of a petrol smell going on too! No obvious leaks and she's running very very rich too! Sounds like a bit of a rebuild on the cards!
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Stu
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,913
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Sept 27, 2006 8:05:51 GMT
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I think the screw you are turning is the one on the balance bar thingy, it will only affect one carb I think - I thought that was the idle adjustment on mine too... no. 4 on this pic?  The one you need to alter the idle for both is no. 2 on the pic if I remember correctly  I agree, does sound like an air leak on the manifold or gaskets where the carbs bolt on, might be worth nipping them up first to see if that helps? Lots of info here: www.racecar.co.uk/dellorto/ |
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'89 BMW E30 325i Sport, '04 MINI Cooper S, '09 Volvo V70 D5
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Sept 27, 2006 8:08:58 GMT
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put some SU's on! they never give any grief.
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1972 Fiat 130 1985 Talbot Alpine 1974 Lancia Beta Saloon 1975 + 1986 Mazda 929 Koop + Wagon 1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica 1977 Toyota Carina TA14 BEST CAR EVER!!!!!!!! 1979 Datsun B310 Sunny 4-dr 1984 Audi 200 Quattro Turbo 1983 Honda Accord 1.6 DX GONE1989 Alfa 75 2.0 TS Mr T says: TREAT YO MOTHER RIGHT! |
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Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
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Sept 27, 2006 8:13:19 GMT
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How old are the carbs? Could they both have worn spindle bushes? That'll let more air in and you'll never get a good idle.
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www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
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Shortcut
Posted a lot
I won't be there when you cross the road, so always use the Green Cross Code.
Posts: 3,037
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Sept 27, 2006 8:31:09 GMT
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quite old. They're actually Del Orto's not webbers so some of the adjustments might be different. They came off an old Alfa Guilietta originally but I had them re jetted, choked and rolling roaded last year and the rr people seemed happy enough with them. They seemed to drop out of tune a bit swifto though.
I do quite fancy the idea of bike carbs though. Throttle bodies woudl be ace but its all money and that would mean setting up a proper engine mappng system etc. Small light car 1300 engine, bike carbs should suit it quite well?
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This space available to rent. Reach literally dozens of people. Cheap rates!
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Sept 27, 2006 8:53:13 GMT
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I think the screw you are turning is the one on the balance bar thingy, it will only affect one carb I think - I thought that was the idle adjustment on mine too... no. 4 on this pic? The one you need to alter the idle for both is no. 2 on the pic if I remember correctly I agree, does sound like an air leak on the manifold or gaskets where the carbs bolt on, might be worth nipping them up first to see if that helps? Lots of info here: www.racecar.co.uk/dellorto/excelent example and very true, i have come across this in the past and it is usualy the case, but if you want to check for air leaks a quick way of doing it is to spray a fine mist of WD40 or something similar around the manifold where is joins to the head and the carb, do this while the car is running and if there is an air leak you will hear a diference in the idle, it will go up or down |
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Sept 27, 2006 9:03:35 GMT
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Ok listen carefully I will only say zis once. The idle screws are as above (no. 2) pointing vertically down on the side of the carb. In the middle is the balance bar (no. 4) and that opens and closes the second carb relative to the first carb. You need a synchrometer, get it from eBay (or Burton if you've got deep pockets) but you need one.
The first carb is the front one with the idle adjustment screw, the second is the next one back which uses the balance bar to open and close it and so on for the rest of the carbs.
Set the engine to a fast idle, stick the synchrometer in the front trumpet of the first carb and take a reading. Now stick the synchrometer in the first trumpet of the second carb and take a reading. Now adjust the balance bar so that the two read the same, allow a few seconds for the idle speed to settle. Repeat process until the two read the same. Then turn the idle speed back down to a tolerable level.
If the idle speed keeps creeping up by itself and both are balanced it is either idling way too lean (in which case the carbs will be spitting as well), or there's an air leak underneath. This is most likely as those misab spacer things are curse word and need silicone to seal them up as well.
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Last Edit: Sept 27, 2006 9:05:51 GMT by Deleted
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DutyFreeSaviour
Europe
Back For More heartbreak and disappointment.....
Posts: 2,944
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Sept 27, 2006 11:05:59 GMT
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104 - I used to have the same problem on the GTV - it was ALWAYS the air leak scenario! These are a b*tch to keep in tune and one of my major time consumers was balancing the damn things ( after first checking for any leaks! ). I used the silicone approach and it helped enormously........ best of luck balancing though - annoying to say the least!  |
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Back from the dead..... kind of
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Shortcut
Posted a lot
I won't be there when you cross the road, so always use the Green Cross Code.
Posts: 3,037
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Sept 27, 2006 12:58:07 GMT
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Excellent. In that case twiddling with screw four has resulted in my carbs being out of balance. Sounds simple enough to fix so I'll get myself a sync thing for the w/end. I'll check for leaks too. The ZS has a set of adapter rubbers on the manifold because Peugeot cast teh carb mountings upside down for some reason. These turn teh carbs back up the right way!! and obvioulsy add another set of seals to the whole structure. Thankfully the guy who fitted them has made a lovely support strut for teh carbs as well to help keep them solid.
Sounds like a good w/ends play that should have positive results!
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