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Jan 16, 2012 16:37:38 GMT
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Decided to keep the sunbeam after it needs a bit of welding work so the car is now semi stripped and the plan is to strip it to a shell, strip all paint and find out what welding work is needed but I'm not clued up/ interested in bodywork so a few questions
is acid dipping still done and is it better than media blasting? I've read that dipping can weaken the metal work?
If i do go for the dipping process once its complete I'd be onto the body repair welding, do I need to get the car into primer before this to prevent surface rust build up?
Any advice is welcome as I've never took an interest in bodywork/ paint as I've never really had to in the past
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,886
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Shell preparationbstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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Jan 16, 2012 23:03:43 GMT
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When media blasting they don't (normally) do flat panels as they distort so you get all the rigid bits of the car done but not the big flat sections
I'm not a huge fan of dipping and even less of a fan of the cost compared to media blasting
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Jan 16, 2012 23:33:31 GMT
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whats your reasons against dipping? i can only think of the rear arches and roof that would really be affected by media blasting but i think dipping would be a better way to get rid of all paintwork/ rust/ wibblepoo basically
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soda blasting?
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muttley racing ftmfwmf
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Jan 17, 2012 14:17:43 GMT
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I've heard of loads of bad things about dipping (SPL), from careless handling of parts, to the acid used for the dip slowly leeching out of seams or remaining pooled in body cavities causing problems later on. Oh, and apparently the E-coat they sell in't that good. I've never used them myself, but I've definitely heard more people moan that praise.
If I was stripping a vehicle to bare metal (and have) I'd just use a DA sander with 80 grit pads until all the paint is gone. Maybe use media blasting on the intricate areas, but on the big flat panels the DA sander won't build up much heat so no danger of warping anything.
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Jan 17, 2012 15:07:26 GMT
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I've heard of loads of bad things about dipping (SPL), from careless handling of parts, to the acid used for the dip slowly leeching out of seams or remaining pooled in body cavities causing problems later on. Oh, and apparently the E-coat they sell in't that good. I've never used them myself, but I've definitely heard more people moan that praise. If I was stripping a vehicle to bare metal (and have) I'd just use a DA sander with 80 grit pads until all the paint is gone. Maybe use media blasting on the intricate areas, but on the big flat panels the DA sander won't build up much heat so no danger of warping anything. I would proper back this up the use of a da and just a small soda blaster which you can get from ebay or machine mart, for getting in the nooks and crannies, and a decent etch primer afterwards or epoxy primer. |
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Jan 17, 2012 20:13:23 GMT
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I media blast for a living and doing flat panels is no problem if you know what you are doing,gently does it  |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,886
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Shell preparationbstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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Jan 17, 2012 23:38:15 GMT
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whats your reasons against dipping? I can only think of the rear arches and roof that would really be affected by media blasting but I think dipping would be a better way to get rid of all paintwork/ rust/ wibblepoo basically Well several things but the dipping process will separate a bonnet from the re-enforcing webbing panel attached to it on Opels That was a surprise The other thing I saw was when a dipped car had a little scrape/dent and the affected sill wing area was cut out to be repaired - for a corrosion free process what was behind wasn't nice Both the above put me right off dipping |
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sparkyt
Posted a lot
selling stuff
Posts: 1,767
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Jan 17, 2012 23:59:37 GMT
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First of bud just how good is the car ? Do you really need to go that far ..acid dipping is full on .and involves a lot of work after not just re etched primering but seam sealer etc .. Shot blasting is perfect on Local areas.
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Jan 18, 2012 12:11:04 GMT
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its not at all considering its a sunbeam, bit of welding needed on a chassis leg
main reason i wanted to strip the car totally was to basically make the best possible shell i can instead of just a general tidy up then having to do the same again in a few years
after doing a bit of research, dipping sounds really harsh, especially on a sunbeam shell which are renowned for being made of cheese. i think i will go with the sander on the big areas and blasting in the fiddly bits. the shell will be seam welded once its stripped so itll be a good sized job and I'm sure will make quite a mess
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Jan 18, 2012 17:10:08 GMT
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On my next car I'm planning to use strip & clean discs, after paint stripper, letting that go dry. So the paint should be weak & crispy, and not fling glop everywhere. The discs are more pricey but not aggressive so are nice to use.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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Jan 26, 2012 13:41:30 GMT
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If you are going with SPL, then the problems I`ve heard of about paint reaction later on etc, has always been on those vehicles, stripped, then taken away for work, then bought back and dipped again and E-coated. If you are going to do it, cut out and repair everything first, then send it for dip, wash, dry, e-coat all in one hit  But it will strip everything, all sealant from between panels etc I`m going to get the Kadett shell soda blasted once all the metalwork is complete as I feel this is the best Method especially when you factor cost into it !! |
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