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Dec 21, 2011 20:58:12 GMT
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Righto. Could do with a bit of advice with how to flat back the paint on my Cortina. Some time ago, someone has painted it black, over the original yellow. Its such a shonky job, that I'm confident that sanding it back, I can get most of the yellow back.I had little go at it earlier to test the water, and fifteen minutes with 1000 grit wet and dry got me this;  So thinking to go courser first, and finish with the 1000, but, what would you start with, grade wise, to hopefully make the job a bit quicker. Don't fancy using power tools with it, just in case it all goes pete tong! Any help and advice wecolme.  |
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Dec 21, 2011 21:37:01 GMT
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Are you planning on repainting the car?
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Well you will mess with these cars....
Mk4 golf gttdi highline. Mk2 golf 1.8T
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Dec 21, 2011 21:41:56 GMT
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As above, I'd only be starting at 1000g if I was trying to save the paint underneath.
Personally, I'd be attacking with sopping wet (perhaps a bit soapy) 400grit. I found the Halfords stuff to be shockingly poor quality when I used it, and the Screwfix stuff surprisingly good and fairly cheap. Even more so with staff discount (it was your gf that works at Sfx, wasn't it? She gave me a lamp once ;D).
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring. |
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Dec 21, 2011 21:55:57 GMT
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As above, I'd only be starting at 1000g if I was trying to save the paint underneath. Personally, I'd be attacking with sopping wet (perhaps a bit soapy) 400grit. I found the Halfords stuff to be shockingly poor quality when I used it, and the Screwfix stuff surprisingly good and fairly cheap. Even more so with staff discount (it was your gf that works at Sfx, wasn't it? She gave me a lamp once ;D). She was, not any more!  As far as the paint goes, I'm hoping to not have to paint it, for this coming summer at least.it will get done properly at some point, but just trying to save the yellow paint underneath for a bit |
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Dec 21, 2011 22:33:56 GMT
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If I was you and was going to spray the whole car I personally would go straight in with 180 grit Prime with 2 pack Guide coat with Matt Black just a dust coating,rub down with 400 and hit the colour coat on.BUT The MAJOR difference with me is I would be using DA sander and doing it DRY.WET and DRY is the OLD fashioned way of doing things and causes NO END of paint problems.
Let me explain the reasoning why......Water will get ingressed into the paint and will stay in the underlying layers and will be there for months till it transpires as small micro blisters.99% of Paint problems are caused simply by wet dry especially when it is used on Primer.
Primer is NOT waterproof and WILL absorb moisture.
Take a tip from a proffesional rub down dry and NOT wet
PRC
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Dec 21, 2011 23:01:54 GMT
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If I was you and was going to spray the whole car I personally would go straight in with 180 grit Prime with 2 pack Guide coat with Matt Black just a dust coating,rub down with 400 and hit the colour coat on.BUT The MAJOR difference with me is I would be using DA sander and doing it DRY.WET and DRY is the OLD fashioned way of doing things and causes NO END of paint problems. Let me explain the reasoning why......Water will get ingressed into the paint and will stay in the underlying layers and will be there for months till it transpires as small micro blisters.99% of Paint problems are caused simply by wet dry especially when it is used on Primer. Primer is NOT waterproof and WILL absorb moisture. Take a tip from a proffesional rub down dry and NOT wet PRC Ok, cheers, good advice.But what if I don't want to paint it yet?I want to get rid of the black on it now, to reveal the yellow, so that I can have it like that for a year or so, and then paint it?I'm not going to paint it straight away, I just want to sand back the crappy black thats on it now, hoping the yellow underneath is vaguely presentable with a bit of cutting compound or similar? |
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Dec 21, 2011 23:52:39 GMT
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my car was in primer, ready for paint for 6 months nearly, painted it and its been fine that was 2 years back, Thats like saying water based paint will rot your car, Wet and dry is fine, honest. how hard/ lond did it take to get that black off? try 600, the work your way up if you damage the yellow, and vice versa, after each panel, wipe it dry, and if your inside a warm enviroment water will evaporate, if not,in this weather a heater would be nice,also helps you to see the paint condition better, If your not overly conserned about the paint looking a bit naff, then hit it with a 400 on an DA if you have one? if not USE a block as you'll end up putting lines i the paint which you will see in your final paint finish shame your not closer id pop over and explain.....  |
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my car was in primer, ready for paint for 6 months nearly, painted it and its been fine that was 2 years back, Thats like saying water based paint will rot your car, Wet and dry is fine, honest. how hard/ lond did it take to get that black off? try 600, the work your way up if you damage the yellow, and vice versa, after each panel, wipe it dry, and if your inside a warm enviroment water will evaporate, if not,in this weather a heater would be nice,also helps you to see the paint condition better, If your not overly conserned about the paint looking a bit naff, then hit it with a 400 on an DA if you have one? if not USE a block as you'll end up putting lines I the paint which you will see in your final paint finish shame your not closer id pop over and explain..... Nice one, thanks. It took about fifteen minutes of fairly hard sanding to get that little patch off.Which is why I thought to go more course, so ill have a little go with some 600, then work up to 1000.Hopefully the yellow wont be too borked.If it is, then ill have a re-think, but the rest of the car isn't mint, so the paint doesn't have to be either for a minute! Thanks for the offer of a tutorial too, appreciated. |
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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heres what I would do if i were trying to save the yellow paint.
1. i'd start off with 400 used wet with a bit of fairy liquid to stop the paper clogging.
2. Once most of the black is gone, or its thin enough to see the yellow beneath, move up to 800.
3. I would probably go with 1200 grit next, again used wet, it'll make machine polishing a lot easier
4. machine polish to get the shine back
don't forget to use a block when sanding and make sure you use good quality paper, such as 3m. Tha halfords stuff is utter poop.
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Dec 22, 2011 16:06:57 GMT
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heres what I would do if I were trying to save the yellow paint. 1. i'd start off with 400 used wet with a bit of fairy liquid to stop the paper clogging. 2. Once most of the black is gone, or its thin enough to see the yellow beneath, move up to 800. 3. I would probably go with 1200 grit next, again used wet, it'll make machine polishing a lot easier 4. machine polish to get the shine back don't forget to use a block when sanding and make sure you use good quality paper, such as 3m. Tha halfords stuff is utter poop. Sounds just about my plan I recon, thanks!Ill see how I get on. |
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