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 These bits are time consuming....happy at the overall condition of the metal   Gotta love paint  Template for steel piece to tie in the boot floor  The rear panel will get plate across the inside to tie in the floor and box the section for strength.  Going 40 mm lower so need the clearance-Just waiting on my inner guards to be made.  Glass flares to be trimmed and glassed on after the inners are all in. They will be a lot smaller and will cove the join to get a nice transition to the body. I will loose the swage line but happy with that. |
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,555
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Nice work!
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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stevietuck
Posted a lot
Never argue with idiots,they drag you down to their level then beat you with their expertise!
Posts: 1,350
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Nice work mate its coming along nicely  |
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Great progress Frank and the tunnel look's mighty fine to me so long as the welds are strong a tidy with the grinder is all thats needed  . The position of the gearstick seems to be a problem on the MX5 gearbox ans l know you can modify it and move it forward say a couple of inches, what do you plan to do with the hand brake have it dash mounted? or do you have space to scolop the trans tunnel and fit it beside the seat? I have now fitted the hand brake for the third time and have added two extra mounts between the body and the chassis to support under the rear seat 1 step forwar 2 steps back.... |
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Thanks Rob..
I've seen you've been having a few fun & games. I'll no doubt find a few issue's when I get to your stage. As for the handbrake and gear lever....as I'm 6'3" I may just be able to use it as it stands. I've removed the old seat mounts on the floor so I can weld in new ones so before I fit the tunnel best I get my MX5 seats in place and check out the ergonomics. I need leg room so the seat could be back far enough. I see a few of the lads have been shorting the shift rods so shouldn't have any problems that can't be overcome. Also planning a few more rear floor braces as well
I'm pleasantly surprised how many MX5 engine transplants are now popping up on RR. A few turbo's as well....This will be handy experience I will be able to tap in to later down the track...
Cheers
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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I was going to have a big weekend on the car but....... # got the wrong gas for the welder # lights blew in the shed # grinder blew up So I made some panels to weld into the boot.    I managed to partially fit one of the mufflers so to make myself feel better I cut out the back valance and mocked up with some spray cans for the exhaust pipes.....childish I know but I had to see what it might look like.....the exit height is good. I've now got some new gas and most of the materials to start filling in the rear floor area.....I have also finally got my wheel tubs so can cut out the old inner rear guards.    |
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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Jun 18, 2014 14:41:59 GMT
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looking really good, this will be a cracking car when you get it on the road!
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Jun 18, 2014 21:05:28 GMT
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looking really good, this will be a cracking car when you get it on the road! Thanks Daft....2 year plan to finish but starting to move forward now so I can go backwards again.....about 2 months away from total deconstruction ....and then start final build. Been watching other projects being completed with envy. |
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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Em
Part of things
Fuel Injected? Carb Infested!
Posts: 601 
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Jun 25, 2014 21:09:57 GMT
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Nice work Frank, it's looking really good!
I like the positioning of your silencers. I'm working on mine at the moment, I have mine a little further outward (in the space I created for them) but I think I prefer the look of yours!
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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Nice work Frank, it's looking really good! I like the positioning of your silencers. I'm working on mine at the moment, I have mine a little further outward (in the space I created for them) but I think I prefer the look of yours! Hi Em, Cheers mate....I was going to go further outboard but this proved a problem so that's the only location I had. It actually works great and I like the position as well. Two mufflers with 2 1/2 " outlets is a bit over kill but it's part of the look I want and when I build a higher output engine later on this will cope with it. I'll finish the rest of the exhaust once the body is removed. A 40 litre custom Aluminium fuel tank is going in middle. Keep your picture coming Em.....watching your work with keen interest.. Cheers, Dave. (AKA Frank) |
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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Alright Frank, as Em said your exhaust location looks good, mine is typical triumph twin. The rear wheel arche's fit a treat it's coming on well. For welding what gauge of wire are you using 0.6 or 0.8?, l use 0.8 it is more robust and better for thick stuff, you just have to get the nib's to match. |
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Alright Frank, as Em said your exhaust location looks good, mine is typical triumph twin. The rear wheel arche's fit a treat it's coming on well. For welding what gauge of wire are you using 0.6 or 0.8?, l use 0.8 it is more robust and better for thick stuff, you just have to get the nib's to match. Cheers Rob, I'll check on the wire size. I'm up for some new wire soon so if it's 0.6 I'll try some 0.8. My main issue is lack of welding experience mostly. I'm getting OK welds where the metal is normal thickness and not got any unseen contaminates but when it comes to trickier sections I run out of talent. Pretty much learning as I go. Still plenty of practice to come so should improve.....hopefully  |
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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Practice, Practice, Practice, that's all I can suggest. It was about 10 years in between my learning welding (oxy, arc and mig) to my getting a welder, so I had to relearn a little, but even now if I haven't picked up the torch in a while, my welds go from being shameful to decent with a small bit of practice.
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Practice, Practice, Practice, that's all I can suggest. It was about 10 years in between my learning welding (oxy, arc and mig) to my getting a welder, so I had to relearn a little, but even now if I haven't picked up the torch in a while, my welds go from being shameful to decent with a small bit of practice. Hi Sci, Well I've been practicing but I've just realised why my welding was craaap. For MIG welding with Gas the -ve is the earth. The welder I borrowed has 0.8 mm solid wire but was set up for flux core wire with the +ve being the earth. As soon as I swapped them around... instant better... Now my only issue is when I start welding I still can't see where I'm going and get a little off track. My feeling is the mask glass is to dark for Mig.... is it darker for tig welding or am I just a blind old curse word with a shaky hand. Any way feeling much better with my welding and will look into a slightly lighter glass. |
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69 Herald 13/60 with Turbo 1600 MX5 engine, Lexus 5 link rear end, 17in wheels,300mm ventilated disc's and subaru 4 pot calipers
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Now my only issue is when I start welding I still can't see where I'm going and get a little off track. My feeling is the mask glass is to dark for Mig.... is it darker for tig welding or am I just a blind old curse word with a shaky hand. Any way feeling much better with my welding and will look into a slightly lighter glass. My mask is super dark as well. On the weekend, I used a mate's auto-darkening helmet. I have sooo got to get me one of these things. Even if it was a Supercheap Auto mask, it made it so much easier when starting beads. It goes a green colour when you're not zapping to allow you to see, but as soon as you strike the arc, it darkens. You still have to use both hands to make sure you're keeping you gun/tip straight, but even on my mate's poxy machine (it felt cheap and nasty), I was able to lay down some nice beads off the bat. |
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so mods required. 
