micrat
South East
Building a Kanjo styled Cinquecento :)
Posts: 1,176 
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Nov 20, 2011 20:09:29 GMT
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sorry to start an almost polar opposite thread of my last question, but I have actually acquired a car now and so have finite sizes etc to play with! so, question is as follows: I have my rover gti wheels which have a 56.1 centre bore, the starlet I have just purchased has a 54.1, therefore if centred the wheel centre will have an even 1mm gap, although if not quite right could have +2 1 side, 0 the other! I cant find anywhere that makes/sells 1mm spigots, as I'm sure they would just snap when being cut anyway! does this mean the gap is too small to cause a problem with wheel wobble etc? hope so  mike! ps before everyone gets excited its a '98 starlet 1.3 so no RWD awesomeness  |
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Last Edit: Nov 20, 2011 21:22:52 GMT by micrat
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Nov 20, 2011 20:13:08 GMT
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If you are using taper bolts, then just tighten the bolts properly working diagonally in a few stages(Hand tight, then just nipped, then quite tight, then proper torque) and it'll pull the wheel central no problems.
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micrat
South East
Building a Kanjo styled Cinquecento :)
Posts: 1,176
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Nov 20, 2011 20:15:05 GMT
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cool thanks mate i ran out of time to try it today, had to do a bit of a once over and tidy a few bits, then it got dark! winter FTL! ah well, next weekend! at least my alloys will be retro!!! |
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Nov 20, 2011 20:21:50 GMT
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Oh and I should probably mention that if you aren't running spigots its probably a good idea to check the wheel is tight after a few miles just in case you've managed to bolt it on completely squint, in which case it could possibly shift and come loose.
Most older vehicles don't run "hubcentric" anyway - My T25 for example doesn't even have a hub to speak of, really.
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micrat
South East
Building a Kanjo styled Cinquecento :)
Posts: 1,176
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Nov 20, 2011 20:36:27 GMT
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cheers i always make sure i re-torque after 50 miles or so, i usually do run spigots, but normally aftermarket rims are 70ish mm down to whatever you want (as I'm sure you are more than well aware lol) have never dealt with just a 2mm difference before, which is why i thought id check! I'm sure thats probably not far off an old, knackered scrapyard rim half the time anyway, they cant be that precise!!! cheers for the info |
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Nov 20, 2011 20:42:23 GMT
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Taper bolts/nuts should in theory pull the wheel square anyway. Just do up in stages and across the wheel.
What I normally do on any wheel is fit wheel and do the nuts up finger tight. Then go around with a 1/2inch ratchet and do them up reasonably tight. All of that with the wheel off the ground so that it centres easier. Then drop to the ground and torque up.
Paul.
p.s. One of my cars doesn't even have center bores and is studcentric rather than hubcentric so has to rely on the studs for postitioning.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Nov 20, 2011 20:47:25 GMT
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I have only ever run a set or wheels with spigots once and that's because they came with them. If they hadn't have been there I wouldn't have been concerned. The only time you do really need them is with wobble bolts. Normal taper nuts/bolts or sleeve nuts if they fit properly, don't really need them.
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Nov 20, 2011 22:52:42 GMT
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I had some 1.5mm thick spigots onto the Scirocco when I fitted some ATS that were Renault center-bore. (60.1mm wheel, 57.1mm hub). They were plastic and more just to make sure the wheel centered properly than actually take any weight. I only really fitted them because I was chasing a vibration at the time and they were about £7 from work, they made no noticeable difference, (turned out the wheels were just out of balance, but I'd assumed they weren't as they'd only just been balanced.)
I also ran a pair of BMW e30 wheels on my MX-5 with no spigots for quite a while (57.1 wheel, 54.1 hub), no problems even driven hard with quite sticky tyres on a car that changed direction rather well.
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Nov 20, 2011 22:59:24 GMT
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Spigot ring never take any load ...or rather they shouldn't!
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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Ads 19
Posted a lot
My old r19
Posts: 1,351
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if your worried, and no i don't see why a, little smear of linseed putty around the centerbore
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Nov 21, 2011 20:04:51 GMT
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duct tape or electrical tape wrapped a couple of times around the spigot should sort it
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1992 190E 2.0 - first car, currently being driven by the wife.
1989 500SEC
1968 W115 4.2 V8
2000 CL500
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VIP
South East
Posts: 8,302
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Nov 22, 2011 14:26:12 GMT
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duct tape or electrical tape wrapped a couple of times around the spigot should sort it No it won't, it'll be as effective as having nothing there at all, seeing as tape can squash and deform. TBH, it's already been clarified that, unless using wobble bolts, spigot rings aren't really essential. |
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Nov 22, 2011 20:48:48 GMT
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its been very effective on my car when my hubcentric spacers were machined 1mm too small. Ive had the wheels off numerous times and no sign of squashing. Electrical tape is just a thin strip of plastic so I cant see why it would sqush anymore than a 1mm machined plastic ring.
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1992 190E 2.0 - first car, currently being driven by the wife.
1989 500SEC
1968 W115 4.2 V8
2000 CL500
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VIP
South East
Posts: 8,302
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Nov 22, 2011 21:50:30 GMT
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Electrical tape is just a thin strip of plastic so I cant see why it would sqush anymore than a 1mm machined plastic ring. Wait, what? |
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another vote for elctrical tape here, like people have been saying, it takes no load whatsoever, just aids centring the wheel on the hub as the bolts are tightened. The other way to make sure its sat right is to do the wheel up, then get the wheel just off the floor, litterally a mm or less off the deck, then spin the wheel. if the gap stays contant you're golden, if not, try again......
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Current fleet:
'58 A35 (half mine)
'67 11 window splitscreen vw (half mine)
'77 mini 1000 (not quite 1000 any more!!)
'86 Armstrong MT500
'89 XR4X4
'94 Corrado VR6
Some sort of sevenesque kit car (no age yet!!)
'01 Mondeo estate 2.0 (engine eventually destined for kit car!) - scrapped, engine only left!
'98 E300 estate, rusty but seemingly reliable, fast-ish tat hauler. eventual engine donor
A35 van, or whats left of it after it lived in a field for many years
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mike!
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