bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Nov 16, 2011 16:10:52 GMT
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Studying the wiring diagram I think ive potentially found the problem.
I was talking out of my backside it appears that the stabiliser and blower switch are and should be connected. Now I already discovered that the wiring to the stabiliser was wrong causing the odd symptoms with gauges I presumed it was right again when the gauges started working. So I'm think that the blower switch must be connected on the wrong side of the stabiliser giving it the pulsed feed.
Which I think is what you where all saying from the beginning.
Note to self stop panicking and look through wiring logically oh and pick up the bloody wiring diagram ;D
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Nov 16, 2011 16:14:27 GMT
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If you look at that diagram the heater blower switch (29) wire, indicator siwtch (31) feed wire, and the feed from the fusebox (14) are all connected together at the live feed to the voltage stabiliser (22). So they ARE connected together.
Testing: Connect the -ve side of a multimeter to ground, and with the engine running, run the heater fan at full speed. Probe along the feed circuit to the voltage stabiliser until the voltage stops varying - you've just gone past the faulty conenction. Start at the 'B' terminal on the voltage stabiliser, then the output from the fusebox, then the input to the fusebox, then the output from the ignition switch, etc.
I strongly suspect that there is a break/loose connection in the (green) wire between the fuse box and the voltage stabiliser.
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Nov 16, 2011 21:01:06 GMT
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Is that diagram accurate? It looks like there is no fuse at all protecting the wiring to the ammeter and light switch. That can't be right can it?
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Nov 16, 2011 21:24:43 GMT
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That can't be right can it? It's an old British car - it most certainly can be right.  My car has a similar 2-fuse setup (1 for the sidelights/dash lights/tail lights/numberplate light, the other for the ignition-switched accessories: horn, heater fan, wipers, indicators and brake lights). Earlier Imps (pre '74) had no fuses whatsoever. |
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Nov 16, 2011 21:30:45 GMT
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It is right that diagram was scanned directly from the owners manual. Not a workshop manual the one you get with the car when you buy it!
Headlights and ammeter are not fused originally although they now run a relay with a fused feed as I didn't fancy the original wiring with my new halogen headlamps.
You want more stupidness this is actually a marked feature of this car.
In order to not dazzle the car behind there is a relay situated in the boot which dims the indicators and brake lights when the headlights are switched on. But triumph in all there wisdom did not see fit to provide an overide for I don't know fog. Again that relay has been bypassed as it just seems like the dumbest bit of design I can think of. I really don't want my brake lights dimmed so that the audi on my back bumper cant see I'm braking.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Nov 16, 2011 21:51:44 GMT
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In order to not dazzle the car behind there is a relay situated in the boot which dims the indicators and brake lights when the headlights are switched on. But triumph in all there wisdom did not see fit to provide an overide for I don't know fog. Again that relay has been bypassed as it just seems like the dumbest bit of design I can think of. I really don't want my brake lights dimmed so that the audi on my back bumper cant see I'm braking. Part No. 10 on that diagram (it's in about 3 different places), for anyone curious. I do think that this is a pretty, erm, 'special' peice of design. Since when have the tail lights on any old British car been bright enough to dazzle anyone? |
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Nov 16, 2011 22:14:51 GMT
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I must admit, that's up there with vacuum driven windscreen wipers (*and no resevoir) as one of those "hang on, are you sure...?" ideas ;D It's no wonder Lucas electrics got the name they did. When you first posted of your headlamp conversion and mentioned pulsing I remembered something else - Vivas and Victors had a current-sensitive cutout switch in the (unfused) headlamp circuit (very similar in principle to the VR) which used to play havoc. If you uprated the bulbs, or even used main beam for too long, they used to cut out and have a bit of a rest. GR2 for dark country lanes  |
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Nov 19, 2011 12:23:57 GMT
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sorted  Not what I thought but of a similar line. Non insulated spade terminal fitted attaching the fan wire to the back of the stabiliser. It was on the right spade but was touching and thus shorting to the other side. Snipped of the original spade and crimped on an insulated one and problem solved |
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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