Datsun/Nissan L-series

wilko Guest	Datsun/Nissan L-serieswilko @GUEST
	Nov 7, 2011 13:52:09 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	I've done a bit of fiddling with these engines before, but never had one in bits... now I have a very poorly C32 Laurel to cure - lots of painful sounding top end rattles (not just rattly tappet type stuff - proper death rattle!), and also clearly not running on 6 either. I pulled the rocker cover off for an intial look the other night and noticed: 1/ Mechanically, it looks just like a 6 cylinder version of a chain drive Lada engine! 2/ None of the rockers have leapt off (had this on a Riva 1500, hence my familiarity with said engine) 3/ None of the valves appear stuck or broken 4/ Some of the cam lobes look a bit scored (do these engines ever have top end oil feed issues?) 5/ Valve clearances look ridiculous (as in, nobody ever checked or adjusted them) So... questions: 1/ Any common faults / ideas? 2/ What are the correct valve clearances? 3/ Anybody have details of a good parts supplier for these engines? I am suspecting it will need a top end re-build really. 4/ Does the timing chain & associated gubbins have an actual or "best practice" replacement interval? Have a couple of L series powered cars for carma: 4.bp.blogspot.com/_AlNoHq3Sz1c/SxDKl1RCZdI/AAAAAAAABmE/RbfadRQpj9c/s1600/nissan_skyline-2000-gt-r-kpgc10-1970_r2.jpg [/img]


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wilko Guest	Datsun/Nissan L-serieswilko @GUEST
	Nov 9, 2011 9:56:57 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Well, no replies, RR has failed me! :-) Got the valve clearances from a mate via autodata - they were well out. Got it running on 6 now but still got a lot of rattle, any info from others still appreciated!


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Ratdat Posted a lot [][] Posts: 3,219	Datsun/Nissan L-series Ratdat @ratdat
	Nov 9, 2011 10:25:52 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Early L6 engines used a spray bar for cam lube which could block but later ones don't really have that problem. L series don't really have much in the way of common faults... they are pretty bulletproof. Biggest problem is simply neglect. They'll keep chugging one even if never serviced but in the long run it does them no good. Lack of oil changes can cause cam and rocker wear which is most likely what you have. Probably the best source for L6 parts now will be a Z parts supplier. Original rockers are NLA as far as I know and when they were they were some mental like £34 each! Re-faced ones are available though. Various cams are available for Z's. Timing chains seem to last for a very long time but the guide rails can need replacing along with the tensioner. It's important to install the chain and guides correctly as if you don't, you can allow the hydraulic tensioner to run too far out and things can turn ugly once it works itself loose in it's bore. If you strip the head, don't remove the cam bearing towers from the head. Re-aligning them can be a big problem and unless perfect the cam will bind. It is even possible for the cam to snap if the towers are mixed up or not fitted right. You might be able to replace the entire head with one from a 280ZX but I'm not sure if compression will be affected. Better still just put the entire 280ZX engine in
	1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5

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wilko Guest	Datsun/Nissan L-serieswilko @GUEST
	Nov 9, 2011 16:11:23 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Cheers for the reply - especially the tip about cam bearing towers, could save me some cursing and swearing later! I did some research on head castings etc... a while back - I believe the 280ZX head would require the 2.4 bores to either be taken out by 10 thou or the lip grinding to clear the larger inlet valves, and would drop the CR slightly unless skimmed down. I have found that there are a number of head castings with different stengths & weaknesses to be considered - ZX heads have bigger valves, but some of the earlier Z heads have better port design. Interestingly, the difference in quoted output for the carbed 240Z vs the injected 2.4 Laurel engine is not all it seems - 240Z engine output is gross, C32 is DIN No specific plans beyond getting it running yet - I probably will do a bit with the L-series but I won't throw more than a few hundred quid at it. If I was spending lots, I figure you might as well start with a VG or RB series lump.


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