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Never done this, anyone got any tips??
ive already asked Bruce for teh name of the Special Area 52 WD40 type stuff.
I'm assuming i just need to soak the studs and take it easy when dissambling then clean the surfaces and re-fit?
is it really that easy?
ive read some right horror stories with snapped studs ect
Oh its a VAG 1.9TD ABL engine in my T4
Dan
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'90 Audi B3 Coupe 2.3 Auto [gone] '92 Audi S4 Avant 2.2 AAN Turbo Auto [gone] '93 Audi 80 Avant 1.9TDi [gone] '96 Audi A4 Avant 2.6 Quattro [gone] '97 VW T4 1.9td LWB [gone] '03 Skoda Octavia 1.9TDi [gone] '05 VW T5 Shuttle LWB 1.9TDi '15 VW Caddy Maxi Kombi 1.6TDi
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Exhaust Gasket Changestealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Give them a good soaking with penetrating fluid, and try and get some heat to them (blow torch) if you can.
If it's studs and nuts it's likely that at least a couple will wind the stud out rather than taking the nut off the stud.
Fit new studs and nuts when you put it back together, they're pence.
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scruff
Part of things
Posts: 621
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When I do them never assume that the nut will come off, the nut is sacrificial.
Most of the time the problem isn't the thread in the nut it's the manky bit that the nut has to run over to come off - that rusty bit sticking out. The threads in the nut are reasonably protected.
Wire brish the thread as best you can, apply a load of lube (To the thread - anywhere else is optional) and as the nut comes undone it will go tight, do it back up, more lube and try again. this will work lube into the threads adn ease the nut over the rusty bit. Keep doing that and it will come undone eventually. Do not be tempted to muscle it straight off or you will break something.
It take surprisingly little force to break a heat cycled stud, significantly less than what I would consider as 'undoing tight nut' force... Having snapped an M10 stud off the Esprit Turbo...
If the nut is so tight it won't budge then split the nut off if you can reach it. Depends on access of course but make this decision early before you snap the stud!
If you do snap the stud then it depends on weather you can still get hold of the stump adn get it out, if it snaps flush you are in for a fight.
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1994 Lotus Esprit - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights. 1980 Porsche 924 - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
I spy a trend...
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If the nut is so tight it won't budge then split the nut off if you can reach it. Depends on access of course but make this decision early before you snap the stud! how would you split the nut? is there a special tool?
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Last Edit: Nov 1, 2011 9:47:45 GMT by mortcars
'90 Audi B3 Coupe 2.3 Auto [gone] '92 Audi S4 Avant 2.2 AAN Turbo Auto [gone] '93 Audi 80 Avant 1.9TDi [gone] '96 Audi A4 Avant 2.6 Quattro [gone] '97 VW T4 1.9td LWB [gone] '03 Skoda Octavia 1.9TDi [gone] '05 VW T5 Shuttle LWB 1.9TDi '15 VW Caddy Maxi Kombi 1.6TDi
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ive already asked Bruce for teh name of the Special Area 52 WD40 type stuff. Penis Oil ;D chemodex Penol
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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ive already asked Bruce for teh name of the Special Area 52 WD40 type stuff. Penis Oil ;D chemodex PenolDon't worry Ben, he's already been [cough] educated [/cough] and has subsequently ordered some Dan, I'd also recomment ONLY using 6 sided/wall drive sockets for the job. Don't be tempted to use a 12 sided one...as scruff says, rust on the outside of the nut can often be a problem and you don't want rounded nuts (well, not on your car anyway). The difference between 6 sided and 12 sided is night & day/chalk & cheese (you get the idea ;D )
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yup, 6 sided sockets FTW, also something like this will aid you greatly if you get into difficulties, they'll work on the nut and the studs Irwin Boltgrips
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scruff
Part of things
Posts: 621
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Splitting the nut you use a nut splitter which has a blade fixed in a case that you can wind down ont he nut which then splits it in two. You can also do it buy drilling small hole sint he nut in line with the stud and using a hammer and sharp cold chisel bit it's very hard to do. It mostly depends on access. Image nicked off google images:
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1994 Lotus Esprit - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights. 1980 Porsche 924 - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
I spy a trend...
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Assuming the OP is successful in removing the manifold/gasket, what's the collective's view on using copper slip as part of the reassembly?
Having got my manifold glowing dull red, I do wonder if it is hot enough to actually melt the copper in the grease and braze (or is it solder?) the studs solid!
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scruff
Part of things
Posts: 621
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Use brass nuts ideally - They won't melt but will always come off. Heads are aluminium they don't melt (Usually!!) Copperslip will still work with steel nuts though
Don't FFS do what the previous owner on the Esprit did and use Nylocks....
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1994 Lotus Esprit - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights. 1980 Porsche 924 - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
I spy a trend...
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mmmm.. melted nylon ;D
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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Had to remove the exhaust manifold on a Mk2 Punto today to examine/change the head gasket. Cringed the whole way though but I don't know what the hell happened, they were all dead easy to take off! Never had that before! and... Don't FFS do what the previous owner on the Esprit did and use Nylocks.... What a tit!
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I've got a quick Q on this subject.
Exhaust gaskets...can you make your own?? I'm finding it hard to find one for my car, it doesn't have one in the joint at the mo (manifold to first section) and it just keeps blowing all the gungum, putty and everything else I've tried.
I've got a roll of gasket paper and a roll of cork, thought about doing a cork sandwich, with paper on the outside, cork in the middle and all stuck together with exhaust putty but I've got no idea if it'll even last 30 secs, let alone any reasonable amount of time.
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Remember the days when sex was safe and motorsport was dangerous. Vintage bling always attracts pussy.
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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To be fair, if you do use a nylock, it'll just melt/burn off the nylon and leave a normal nut behind. I used some on my Sciroccos manifold-downpipe join because it's all I had, and they came off fine, exactly like the normal nuts, I didn't expect the nylon part to last 30 seconds, but then the original nuts didn't have a nylon bit at all anyway.
Access tends to be a bit of a pain on the VW stuff, due to being counterflow the top row of bolts for the exhaust manifold is pretty hidden, so you may find it easier to take the inlet off first to get access.
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I've got a quick Q on this subject. Exhaust gaskets...can you make your own?? I'm finding it hard to find one for my car, it doesn't have one in the joint at the mo (manifold to first section) and it just keeps blowing all the gungum, putty and everything else I've tried. I've got a roll of gasket paper and a roll of cork, thought about doing a cork sandwich, with paper on the outside, cork in the middle and all stuck together with exhaust putty but I've got no idea if it'll even last 30 secs, let alone any reasonable amount of time. I made one between the turbo and manifold myself out of a piece of copper plate i had laying around, works well.
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scruff
Part of things
Posts: 621
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Or you can buy the proper exhaust gaskety stuff.
The nylon on my nylocks burned onto the studs and was really hard to shift.
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Last Edit: Nov 2, 2011 19:57:04 GMT by scruff
1994 Lotus Esprit - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights. 1980 Porsche 924 - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
I spy a trend...
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I've got a quick Q on this subject. Exhaust gaskets...can you make your own?? I'm finding it hard to find one for my car, it doesn't have one in the joint at the mo (manifold to first section) and it just keeps blowing all the gungum, putty and everything else I've tried. I've got a roll of gasket paper and a roll of cork, thought about doing a cork sandwich, with paper on the outside, cork in the middle and all stuck together with exhaust putty but I've got no idea if it'll even last 30 secs, let alone any reasonable amount of time. This may be of no use whatsoever, but I know that my car doesn't use a gasket on the exhaust manifold to downpipe joint. Instead there's a bracket that goes from the back of the gearbox to the bottom of the downpipe, when the engine and box moves, it takes the downpipe and manifold with it, rather than splitting the join every 15 minutes. I know this now as mine was missing when I first got it and blew the exhaust putty out after about ten minutes. They're NLA for mine, so had to make one. Might be able to do something similar?
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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I've got a quick Q on this subject. Exhaust gaskets...can you make your own?? I'm finding it hard to find one for my car, it doesn't have one in the joint at the mo (manifold to first section) and it just keeps blowing all the gungum, putty and everything else I've tried. I've got a roll of gasket paper and a roll of cork, thought about doing a cork sandwich, with paper on the outside, cork in the middle and all stuck together with exhaust putty but I've got no idea if it'll even last 30 secs, let alone any reasonable amount of time. Some cars don't use gaskets you need to use a special instant gasket, last time i did a primera downpipe it came with a tube of the stuff.
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R.I.P photobucket
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Well I don't post much cos iv lost my mojo and iv not got a lot to say, but on this subject i think if you google ," Gaskets to go custom gaskets,", this company may be able to help.
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BECAUSE I CAN
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run the engine for a while until the studs are nice and hot, then try to undo 'em
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Someone just shot the elephant in the room.
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