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Aug 24, 2006 14:48:10 GMT
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Firstly does anyone know if someone makes springs to go straight on to lower the beast? 84 Cressida. If not how dodgy is cutting down springs, it seem's to have a very soft, wallowy??ride,would any one want to contribute their services? Secondly it has a slight stutter when you pull away. i checked the plugs and gaps, they are fine. i changed the points and it got rid of the stutter but now i feel it's slightly hesitant up until about 3000rpm then it sorts itself out, any ideas? If i removed my mirrors wouldn't i be left with a crapy looking hole or something where they once lived? Also i'm after some cheap ish rims.Can anyone help? Finally the brakes are quite spongy and are not too good at slow speeds due to the low idle, i suspect the assisted servo can't do it's job properly due to low engine revs. Any info is good info as this is the first J/South African motor i have owned and i have a lot to learn! AS promised if not a bit late here are the pics of the rather tidy engine bay. i96.photobucket.com/albums/l173/Magnumpwi/CarStuff2069.jpg
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Last Edit: Aug 24, 2006 14:49:43 GMT by magnumpi
OAP drifta Volvo 340,Williams power 1960 Beetle twin 40's 1776cc
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Aug 24, 2006 19:05:15 GMT
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The debate on cut springs vs proper shorter springs rages on. In the meantime you can cut your springs but I found it easy to remove mine and send one front and one rear to Coil Spring (or was it Spring Coil) in Sheffield to have 2 inch shorter and 20% stiffer springs made up.
Are your mirrors on the doors or the wings? Either way you will have holes. Why do you want to remove them?
Are the wheels 114.5? Then there are loads of J wheels but to get the dish you will probably need to do a bit of searching. Konig Rewinds? Lotus wheels like on Rmads? TR6 steels, Celica Supra alloys, Saab Ronals..... there's loads.
Charlie
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BuddyJ
Part of things
Yank
Posts: 36
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Aug 24, 2006 19:29:46 GMT
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I've never seen a Cressy with an R-series. I bet it's a turd. Here in the states, they came with a 5M. It guzzles gas but at least it has good stump pulling torque. Gabe at TechnoToyTuning.com in California just released a full coil-over suspension with camber plates, coil-overs and roll centre adjusters for the X80 series Cressida and supposedly has the X70 stuff almost ready. You could contact him. Also, Robert at www.935motorsports.com/catalog/ has everything you'd need to slam it. He takes a while sometimes to ship, but his stuff is good. He has a whole front suspension for you car for $900 USD and can supply uprated lowering rear springs and dampners too. He also has DIY kits for waaaaay less. For rims, I get some Celica Supra alloys and go with that. I think they look the business on old Cressidas.
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85 Toyota Celica Supra P-Type 6M-GE
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Snoozin
Posted a lot
Toyophile
Posts: 1,557
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Aug 24, 2006 20:33:49 GMT
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To attempt to cure your stutter issue strip and clean the carb (carefully!) I had a similar fault with the Starlet and it was a crook accelerator pump, I replaced the knackered seal and it went fine from then on. Failing that, check the timing and see what it's set to, it could be a bit retarded etc. causing lacklustre performance.
BuddyJ - T3 stuff is the shiz, a few of my mates are running their gear on KP61'a and AE86's in NZ, I hope to go for a set of their strut tops for the KP in due course.
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Aug 24, 2006 20:37:10 GMT
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I've got a set of cheap ex-240K alloys if need be, 5.5x14", 25mm offset. You'd need to sort sleeve nuts though, as Datsun studs have different thread pitch.
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I've never seen a Cressy with an R-series. That's all we got over here!
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probably due to what appears to be (on the lower left picture) a leaking shock absorber
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probably due to what appears to be (on the lower left picture) a leaking shock absorber Probably due to it being a 80's Japanese wagon! ;D Seriously, it was designed for comfort and load lugging, not as a road ripper. Also its 20+ years old. You want wallow, try my Mazda out! Cutting springs is OK so long as 1. you don't quench them (as some people seem to advise) 2. you don't cut more than 1.5 - 2 turns of the coil off 3. you make sure you can replicate the old spring end 4. they are not conical / variable wound / progressive coils. 5. you cut them all equally (well duh) 6. the spring doesn't fall out of the cup when the car is jacked up. New springs is obviously a "better" thing, but "better" is not synonymous with "necessary". Depends on what you want to achieve. Also as a thought, a nice quote from a magazine on cutting springs "hell, I've never fitted a set of performance springs to a car withut having to trim them a bit anyway"
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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& on the other issue - yup - check the carb out. I'd dose ot with cleaner at a fast idle first before removing and stripping it. Also I'd check the timing first. Does the manual specify a dwell angle for the points as this is more accurate than just gapping them?
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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antdat
Part of things
Posts: 712
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there is a couple places in the UK that will custom make springs, I had a pair made for the rear of my 200B 35mm lowered and 40% uprated, Cost was £74 including postage and VAT
I had top do this as when i cut the springs i found teh car would bottom out under hard acceleration
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