|
|
|
Oct 14, 2011 18:36:41 GMT
|
|
Hi,
I have a 1985 mk2 Granada 2.8 (cologne) ghia x estate (auto).
The problem is that the battery keeps going flat after a couple of weeks without any use. The battery is good and not that old. I have checked for any drains from anything on the cars electrical systems and I cant find anything wrong here.
I think it is the alternator that is faulty as the volts are not that good when the cars running, but also when it is started the warning light on the dash stays on. But I did have the alternator checked out by a professional reconditioner some months ago and he sent me it back with no problems found!
I'm just thinking now that maybe the alternator fitted is possibly the wrong type for my car, and it needs something bigger. The one on it now is a 55A (I think) but I know these cars did have bigger ones depending on spec etc.
What I would like to know is, is my alternator the right one for the car?
and if it is the right one, is it duff in spite of what the recon place told me?
Any help would be much appriciated!
|
| |
1985 Ford Granada 2.8 ghia x
1984 Ford Transit 100L
1974 Ford Capri 1.6L
1973 Mercury Marquis 429 V8
|
|
mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,949 
Club RR Member Number: 77
|
|
Oct 14, 2011 21:00:32 GMT
|
my mk2 ghia originally had a 55amp alternator fitted from the factory  any idea what kind of voltage its charging at? also, might be worth checking/replacing the earth straps too ;D and the gauge on the dash isnt a volt meter, its an ammeter, and usually sits around the middle (at least mine does), unless the alternator is under load in which case it will usually fall a tad when idling and rise above half when revved above 1500rpm  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2011 11:29:28 GMT
|
|
Ok, tested this morning and after sitting unused for a week.
Tested the battery volts - 11.4V, so low and it didnt start but did turn over a few times but very slowly.
I put the jump starter on and it eventually started but it almost killed the jump start pack doing it!
Once started the battery warning light stayed illuminated and tested volts again at idle, no load - 11.7V.
tested again with no load at approx 2k rpm - 12.8V
tested on load at idle - 13.5V
tested on load at approx 2k rpm - 13.2V
I then took the car out to get the battery recharged, on a 40 mile trip, with fast use on the motorway, so the battery is definatly charged up again.
Tested at idle no load - 13.4V
Tested at idle on load - 13.1V
So I assume the problem is with the alternator, in spite of what the recon people told me?
I also did the same checks on one of my my other cars, which is known to be ok.
battery volts not running - 12.7V
Running no load - 14.7V
Running on load - 14.5V
So there is quite some differance between them!
Also possibly worth mentioning that the starter has been rebuilt and is fine, and the battery is nearly new and is also both a good quality one and more powerful than a standard battery for this car. But this is its third battery in as many years, so I cant see the battery being the problem.
mk2cossie, Yes I meant the red battery warning lamp on the instrument binnacle and not the ammeter. My ammeter sits at about half to just under when sat. Then rises to almost max when running and drops a touch when anything electrical is turned on. I'm not sure how good or accurate these ammeters are though to be honest!
Any more help much appreciated.
|
| |
1985 Ford Granada 2.8 ghia x
1984 Ford Transit 100L
1974 Ford Capri 1.6L
1973 Mercury Marquis 429 V8
|
|
mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,949
Club RR Member Number: 77
|
|
Oct 15, 2011 15:54:52 GMT
|
although not particularly high voltage at idle, i seem to think thats what mine used to kick out  does the car start up easy enough after the run out to top up the battery? if so, id be inclined to do a voltage drop test on each earth lead/main power cable. with the coil disconnected (to allow cranking and no start up), put a multimeter on Volts and connect it in parallel on each earth lead and see what the voltage goes up to when cranking. .2 volt is about normal, but anything over .5volt will show up a duff lead ;D |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2011 15:58:33 GMT
|
|
Depending on what's wrong with the alternator it can drain a battery when the engine's not running even if it charges with the engine running.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2011 16:41:14 GMT
|
|
Maybe unrelated but a mate had a 2.8 GL with carb. The alternator had another take off for the electric choke. There should obviously be no current though this terminal when ignition turned off but if there was an internal fault then that could be a cause of current drain.
Paul H
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 15, 2011 18:41:33 GMT
|
|
Thanks for the suggestions.
mk2cossie - Ill give your voltage drop test a go tomorrow and see what happens, I did try using a jump lead connected between various places a while ago to try to prove any earth leads but it didnt seem to make much differance.
And yes it always starts first time, every time when its been used and when warm. I even tried it this evening, several hours after taking it for a run and it started easily no probs. (The voltage was 11.9V this evening just before I tried starting it.)
daverapid - This did cross my mind, I think its some sort of problem that can happen to the diodes or something in the alternator. So it will still charge the battery but allows the current to flow back out again and drains the battery. I seem to remember someone handy with car electrics telling me this can happen. But surely when I had the alternator checked over they would have found this?
Paul H - Ill have a look at the back of the alternator for this. Theres not that much space down there though to see!
I think the alternator is going to need to come out and either be replaced or ill get another place to check it over and see what they say.
I need to sort this though as its becoming annoying and a waste of money when the batteries keep getting killed every year or so!
|
| |
1985 Ford Granada 2.8 ghia x
1984 Ford Transit 100L
1974 Ford Capri 1.6L
1973 Mercury Marquis 429 V8
|
|
