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Oct 11, 2011 13:57:10 GMT
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I have a Rickman Ranger with a 2.0L Pinto engine fitted and am having problems with number four cylinder not firing.
I started with the plugs. There was a spare set in the drivers door pocket so I fitted those and when taking out the last plug I noticed that the ceramic part was cracked along it's length. I thought that this was going to be an easy fix. However, starting the car showed that changing the plugs made no difference. Still no firing on number four cylinder. So then I changed the leads around to see if the misfiring moved to a different cylinder. This also made no difference. Tried cranking it with the offending plug out, connected to the plug lead and earthed on the exhaust manifold. There was a spark but putting it back in it's still not firing on number four cylinder. I have also had the cam cover off to check the valves and cam and as far as I can see everything is OK without taking it apart further. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem may be?
Also, I know the engine is a 2.0L Pinto but I have no idea what model it came from. Does anyone know how I can determine what servicing parts I need? I want to try new dizzy cap, rotor arm, points and leads before going any further.
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andyf
South West
Posts: 415
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Oct 11, 2011 14:11:34 GMT
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I think you are on the right track. If you ask for service parts for a 2.0 ohc Cortina you will be fine. There are two sorts, Bosch or Motorcraft. If your dissy cap is brown it`s Bosch, if black it`s Motorcraft.
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1980 Triumph TR7.
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Pinto MisfiringDeleted
@Deleted
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Oct 11, 2011 14:12:11 GMT
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I'd do a compression test on the cylinder to make sure there's not a stuck valve or chipped valve.
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Oct 11, 2011 14:19:02 GMT
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Agreed on the compression test - It's sounding mechanical to me rather than electrical.
Pintos are quite fond of blowing the HG at the back edge causing a misfire/dead pot on no4 as well. Valve damage is thankfully quite rare, but cam damage isn't - a worn lobe (due to blocked spray bar) would also knack up one pot where the others are ok - was it rattley before it started missing? (edit - oops, missed the bit in the OP about looking under the cam cover)
Also, to tell what age/type of pinto you have, look at the LH side (looking from front) it will say 2.0 if it is an early type, and 205 for later - exact dating can be done with the first two letters of the engine number (google for ford dating chart)
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Oct 11, 2011 14:20:24 GMT
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As abouve regarding parts ect. IME missing on the rear pot is usually a recessed valve seat from running a leaded engine on unleaded as it's at the back it's furthest from the rad and so runs hotter and wears quicker. On the side of the block there will be either a 20 or 205 cast into it, that will at least tell you weither it's a cortina or sierra block not that it makes that much differance TBH  |
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R.I.P photobucket
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Oct 11, 2011 16:23:13 GMT
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Thanks for all the replies so far guys, very helpful.
The cam: This looks just as I would expect a nice shiny, oily cam to look like. All the lobes are fine and oil coverage is uniform.
Engine number is 70HM6015BA and block is stamped 2.0 just below this. I've already Googled the engine number without too much success. I'll try harder.
Dizzy cap is brown.
I've ordered a compression tester so I'll hold off buying anything else until I've tested it.
I'm hoping it's not a recessed valve seat but I suspect it might be. I don't know what the previous owner ran it on. If the head does need work I may just bring my idea of converting it to diesel forward which means it won't be seeing the road any time soon. Unfortunate, as I was looking forward to getting it MoT'd very soon and using it. This is all that's holding me back now.
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Oct 11, 2011 16:33:49 GMT
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OK, Googled "Ford Dating Chart". I'm presuming I ignore the preceding numbers in the engine number before the letters HM. If I'm right, them HM would be 1987. Would this be too late for Cortina and perhaps be an early Sierra engine? The engine is mated to a 5 speed box and it would make sense to get them both from the same donor, although it's by no means guaranteed that this was the case.
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Oct 11, 2011 16:34:46 GMT
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That isn't the engine number, it's the part number of the block! Engine number is stamped on a flat plate just above and forward of the 2.0 marking, should be 2 letters 5 numbers (XX12345)
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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Oct 11, 2011 16:42:56 GMT
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FWIW, it sounds like you have a cortina (or capri) 2.0, brown diz cap with points (bosch) and 2.0 not 205 on the block are the giveaways. A sierra engine would have 205 and electronic ignition.
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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barty
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,088
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Oct 13, 2011 10:04:16 GMT
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I agree that it sounds like a valve as it appears you have an early 2ltr cortina engine which of course runs leaded petrol and since leaded petrol has been unavailable for a few years now I'm guessing you have valve seat problems, a compression test will show this. If this is the case it will have to come off and will need repair so nows a good time to convert it to unleaded or you could try to replace the head with a second hand one which is already for unleaded. The sierra inj engine is a good swap but i must admit I'm not sure what else is involved in this conversion ie cam ect but I'm sure there is someone on here who can offer advise
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Oct 13, 2011 17:36:00 GMT
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If it turns out to need head work I think I'm probably just going to take it out and fit a diesel instead. I can do this quite cheaply and easily with a Corsa 1.5TD Isuzu engine bolted to a Manta box. Just some fabrication work needed on the engine mounts and the prop modded. I'm kind of hoping the engine does need changing as I wanted to do a diesel conversion anyway but I was going to wait a while as I haven't had a chance to use the car yet since acquiring it.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Oct 13, 2011 18:27:31 GMT
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If you get a late sierra head check for the head code by number 4 ex port (L, P, PP, R or RR) cos not all are unleaded (even efi heads are not all unleaded) but the best thing with the EFi head is it's basicly a stage one head from the factory EFi cam is the same as carb why the 1.5 TD and not the 1.7 out of interest ? cheaper road tax ?? |
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R.I.P photobucket
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Oct 13, 2011 20:55:19 GMT
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The 1.5 seems to be cheaper and easier to find. I'd be just as happy with a 1.7.
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