|
|
|
|
|
|
Morning all,
So i finally have the gas for my welder, and I have a rotten viva HB.
So I asked 2 fellow RR chappies who have restored classics before what thickness metal i would need for repairing inner wings, floor pan and chassis and got different answers from both.
Can someone shed some light as to what thickness i need for each opperation, i don't want to be buying unnecessary sheet as its expensive!!
Cheers
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
For structural parts (chassis rails and/or suspension mounts) I would use atleast 1.0mm. For other less important parts you can use 0.6mm or 0.9mm. Thicker is better though and easier to weld, but harder to form (obviously). If you want to buy just 1 thickness, buy 1mm. You can also just cut a piece out of your car and measure it.
You can get zincor pre-zinc'ed plates from your supplier, this is very nice to use on parts you can't paint afterwards (like chassis rails for instance).
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I tend to use 1.2 for everything, heavier than standard & not the easiest to shape if it's an awkward repair, but at least you know it's going to be strong.
|
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
|
i also use 1.2 for everything, unless its an overlying repair where the extra thickness would effect fit.
i actually think its easier to shape, yeah you have to hit it harder, but theres less spring to it, so it tends to stay where you put it a lot more than thinner stuff. another factor for a total beginner is its much harder to get heat distortion in it than 0.9 or 1mm, plus, its almost aways rust-trap areas were repairing, which will rot out again eventually purely because of the design of them that means they hold dirt/water, and that extra thickness is basically extra life in the panel before it needs doing again.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2011 14:32:05 GMT
|
|
I've been using .8mm for non structural stuff, will bump it up to 1.5mm for important bits.
Luckily all but one of the thin repairs is hidden by wheels, so distortion isn't that big a deal to me. That said, there isn't any anyway. Somehow.
The tip about zinc plate above is a good one, just make sure you're in a well ventilated area. I'm not entirely sure if it's the same as trying to weld Galvanised sheet, but if it is, you'll know about it.
I just covered the area I was welding too and the repair patch in zinc primer before welding. It's probably burnt off the inside now, but it's better than nothing.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2011 18:06:19 GMT
|
Welding galvanised steel is not that dangerous for your health, I mean, don't intently go inhaling the fumes and don't do it all day, but the worst that is going to happen is you catching "zink-flu" meaning you will get flu symptoms which will wear off with no long-term effects. Of course this all corresponds to hobby welding and small patches, if you use this stuff (semi) professionally and/or large sections you may want to hold your breath  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 10, 2011 18:22:10 GMT
|
Welding galvanised steel is not that dangerous for your health, I mean, don't intently go inhaling the fumes and don't do it all day, but the worst that is going to happen is you catching "zink-flu" meaning you will get flu symptoms which will wear off with no long-term effects. Of course this all corresponds to hobby welding and small patches, if you use this stuff (semi) professionally and/or large sections you may want to hold your breath I know, I've done it. Some don't |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
cheers for the information chaps! I shall now head to ebay for some metal :-)
|
| |
|
|
purplevanman
Posted a lot
Way too orangey for crows
Posts: 3,830
|
|
Oct 12, 2011 21:32:58 GMT
|
Bit late but I use .9 and 1.2 Zintec sheet. Never had an issue with the fumes but I don't hold my nose over it  oh and I buy it from a local supplier in 8x4 sheets as ebay is a ripoff for steel :/ |
| |
Welder, fabricator, general resto work
|
|
