awoo
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,506
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Oct 23, 2011 20:44:53 GMT
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oh right sorry, yeah thought that was a bit odd as they don't tend to go that way.
if thats the case then you can get spacers for the sprocket to push it out a little and spacers for the wheel but you will most likely need to redish it for the rim to align properly in the frame.
it would be worth getting a new chainset, you can mess around with spacing the front sprocket atleast
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Oct 23, 2011 21:34:40 GMT
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since its an old 10 speed with an open ball bearing bottom bracket. The bb axle will probably be longer on one side. take the axle out and check it. Put it in with the short side on the drive side. probably about 5mm it will come in. If you do need spacers for the cog or BB cups. The spacers on a Strurmey Archers 3 speed hub fit there. So if you see an old abandoned bike. rip the wheel out and take the spacers. theres a spring clip holding the cog on there. but if you hit the cog with a hammer it gets the message.
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TS
Part of things
Posts: 558
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Why would you remove the front brake? I know why but I think its bonkers unless you're riding it exclusively on the track.
You may be capable and consider it a personal risk but if you crash (and you cannot stop as quickly without a brake no matter who you are) you're not just risking yourself.
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Oct 24, 2011 12:26:46 GMT
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As said, either space the rear cog out or fit a narrower bottom bracket. I *think* Peugeots had a funny size bottom bracket thread diameter, so the second option might not be possible because you can't get new sealed bb's in all the sizes like you can with the standard thread diameter, but it might well be worth checking if the axle is offset like Alec said. You can make a spacer up with a thin slice of tube or something. You could also move that nut to the other side of the wheel and re-dish the wheel back to the middle. That chainring doesn't look terribly stiff. I wouldn't want to be doing much braking using my legs with that chainset. I've seen them bend under load before (hence why track chainsets are so much stronger and expensive). I'm quite a strong cyclist and I've never had a 3/32 cog bend or let go, even tall ones like 18's. I wouldn't worry.
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Barker
Part of things
JDM Fanboy
Posts: 129
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Oct 24, 2011 20:13:16 GMT
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Well first things first getting some forks, putting it all together then if it doesn't ride properly ill sort any problems out wihen i come to them. As for the brakeless thing, ill definately be having a brake during the winter, and while I'm learning to ride fixed, but in the summer if I'm fairly used to it i might get rid of it, simply for looks and fun. Obviously ill have to be very careful with it though. And probably have to get a better gear ratio as its quite fast at the minute.
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awoo
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,506
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Oct 24, 2011 22:35:34 GMT
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youll also need some foot retention.
and if you have any inclines or kids within 50feet of you - you will need a brake.
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Barker
Part of things
JDM Fanboy
Posts: 129
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Oct 24, 2011 23:14:02 GMT
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Yeah my mate knows how to use a sewing machine ill just give him a few quid to whip me up some nice velcro straps Edit: In regards to the spacing of the fixed cog, surely if i put a spacer in, it will push the cog off the higher stepped thread, however the inside could still be screwed on slightly. Wouldn't this mess the thread up under stress? Also not sure how well the lockring would do in that situation
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Last Edit: Oct 24, 2011 23:19:42 GMT by Barker
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Oct 29, 2011 19:12:58 GMT
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and if you have any inclines or kids within 50feet of you - you will need a brake. This. Sorry, but unless it's velodrome-only, riding brakeless is for idiots. London is filling up with thoughtless poseurs who think they know better, and they're giving good Fixed-Gear cyclists a very bad name. If you think a front brake ruins the look of your bike, I for one don't want to share the roads with you.
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Oct 31, 2011 20:38:14 GMT
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Loving the look of this. Giving me lots of inspiration to do the old steel Claud Buttler I'm rattling around on.
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lae
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,045
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Oct 31, 2011 22:38:17 GMT
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This. Sorry, but unless it's velodrome-only, riding brakeless is for idiots. Yep. Absolutely terrible idea. It doesn't matter how good a rider you think you are, it doesn't stop someone else pulling out in front of you at a roundabout. Besides, you can take risks with your own life if you want, but when on a bicycle you have a duty of care to other road users and pedestrians - it's selfish to ride brakeless.
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Currently: Mk1 Focus blandmobile
Formerly: 1969 MG Midget 1972 Avenger GT 1981 Datsun Cherry 1989 Corolla 1979 Mercedes W123 200D 1995 Ford Falcon 1996 Ford Telstar (bet you had to google that one)
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Barker
Part of things
JDM Fanboy
Posts: 129
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you can take the allen bolt out of the bar clamp on the stem. get a big screwdriver/ slim crowbar/ sizeable tyre lever, in the gap thats there. With the stem in the forks. maybe spray wd40 on the handle bars bends. then gently ease them round. you may have to try them at several angles to get round the tighter turns. Also. grease the expander wedge, the expander bolts threads, and its head, where it sits in the top of the stem. grease the stems quill tube, where it goes in the forks. Grease the seat post, where it goes in the frame. So nothing seizes. Preferably with copper grease. But general purpose grease will do. just a slight coating. and after 6 months or so. regrease them. If you are gonna use the straight bars. try making shims out of coke cans or bean tins. thinner metal can be cut with scissors. watch it don't cut your fingers tho be very carefull its clamping firmy tho. some expensive bars and seat posts come with shims, as there made to one size. but frames are lots of different sizes.
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Last Edit: Nov 2, 2011 23:00:56 GMT by alecw35
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lae
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,045
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Please get a brake. And foot retention, too.
Anyway. Drop bars can be awkward to fit - there's a right way and a wrong way of threading them through the stem.
When I saw your first pics I wondered if you were very short... now I see you've got the saddle on and you're of normal height - not to worry though, finding the right frame size is a trial-and-error thing. It took me a half a dozen frames to get it right! For short journeys such a small frame will be very nippy, too.
It'll look great with the drop bars and tape on. Deda make decent tape, I use it myself.
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Currently: Mk1 Focus blandmobile
Formerly: 1969 MG Midget 1972 Avenger GT 1981 Datsun Cherry 1989 Corolla 1979 Mercedes W123 200D 1995 Ford Falcon 1996 Ford Telstar (bet you had to google that one)
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Barker
Part of things
JDM Fanboy
Posts: 129
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Cheers guys, yeah I'm difinately putting a brake on don't worry. Got the drop bars on now, did the screwdriver trick before i saw these replies haha.
And yeah the frame is pretty small, I'm 6' 1, but wont be using it for long distance, couple of miles at most. Gave it another test drive and its pretty uncomfy on the drops, but well see what its like with the tape on amd a brake etc. Few more pics later
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Barker
Part of things
JDM Fanboy
Posts: 129
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thats looking sweeeet!
you wanna flip those drops and chop em down so you end up with bull horns! theyd help aswell seeing as its a small frame.
I'm doing pretty much the same with my raleigh at the mo, i think it deserves a spruce up as it was doing 100 miles a week whilst i was at uni. if i can find my camara i might bosh up a log seeing as youve given me some insperation to get back on it.
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Barker
Part of things
JDM Fanboy
Posts: 129
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Cheers mate, i have got some chopped drops (see the pics of how it started). May give them a try actually well see, don't want to chop these bars though sometimes bull horns can look crappy!
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I had cut off bull horn bars on a Elswick Hopper single speed I built a few years ago. they looked ok, but only at a certain angle. I think that'll still be on my Racers thread.
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