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Now I really am at the end of my tether with this one...!!! My superbly trusty Toledo has been at the garage for a couple of weeks and I got it back only to find that my clutch is still not feeling right, it is awful in fact...!!! The pedal is in the normal position but the biting point is so low I might as well be pushing my foot through the floor...  The clutch has been replaced, the master cylinder and slave cylinder have been replaced and the fluids have all been changed and bled (so I've been told!)... Yet I am still in the possession of a car that I cannot really drive as gear changing is a difficult/crunchy affair and it is really horrible to drive (not that I have driven it for more than a mile or two)... I am taking the car back to the mechanic on Wednesday but until then I need to have as many suggestions as possible to throw at him to get this woeful situation sorted out...!!! I just want to drive my brilliant little car...  Any help would be HUGELY, HUGELY appreciated folks... I really do mean that...  |
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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Could be that the clutch just needs bleeding because there's a little air left in the hydraulics.
The plastic pipe can also get weak and bulge when under pressure, but this is usually alot more apparent when everything is hot.
A worn clevis pin where the pedal joins the master cylinder pushrod or worn hole in the pedal can cause lost motion.
Getting more involved, a fairly common fault with these is for the pivot pin to come out of the operating arm in the bellhousing. Usually you get no disengagement at all when this happens but if the pin is only half way out, it carries on working as you describe.
Finally, it is not unknown for the crankshaft thrust washers in the engine to escape meaning that the crank moves forward when you put your foot on the clutch. We do hope it's not this one.....
What work have you had done? If it's had a new clutch fitted, some "new" clutches have the wrong installed height and need the slave cylinder push-rod lengthening a little.
Hope this helps
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Oct 10, 2011 21:06:19 GMT
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When my clutch needed bleeding, I unbolted the slave cylinder from the box and pushed the piston back with a long socket and clamped it with a g clamp. then raise as high as possible and then bleed and refit! Hope this helps
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Ads 19
Posted a lot
My old r19
Posts: 1,351
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Oct 11, 2011 18:17:51 GMT
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thrust washers in the crank quite likely, they do love to do it. look for front pulley moving when depressing clutch.
I did drive mine for ages like it, and symptoms were much the same, though double declutching seemed to get round it! hope its not this issue
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Could be that the clutch just needs bleeding because there's a little air left in the hydraulics. The plastic pipe can also get weak and bulge when under pressure, but this is usually alot more apparent when everything is hot. I found those plastic Triumph clutch pipes an utter utter sod to bleed through the first time I did one (converting a 2500 from auto to manual) I noticed air bubbles moving up and down the pipe and it just would not bleed out & I was stuck with it crunching into gear. In the absence of a pressure bleeder, I was advised by a Triumph restorer I know to brim the master cylinder but leave the top off it, then leave the slave cylinder bleed nipple slighlty loose & leaky for a few hours before trying again - worked a treat. |
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murran
Part of things
Posts: 610
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Oct 16, 2011 10:07:33 GMT
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bent clutch fork?
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,307
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Oct 16, 2011 18:28:34 GMT
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They can be a pain to bleed on those. An Eezibleed kit or doing it as Wilko said (I have heard of this technique before and I think Hoops did this) should help you get a good clutch pedal.
The Haynes tells you to bleed the system with the slave cylinder fully pushed in (and hence tied up). From previous experience this seems to be easier said than done.
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