street
Posted a lot
6.2 ft/lbs of talk
Posts: 4,662
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Aug 11, 2006 12:59:38 GMT
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This may sound like a basic question, but having set this car on fire once before with dodgy wiring skillzorz I feel a little reluctant to experiment when it comes to electrics..... I want to put in a switch to interupt the fuel pump live feed, and hide it somewhere as a security measure. The fuel pump is a Facet electric jobbie, which has a live feed going from the ignition to the pump. Question is, can I just put a switch on this wire or will I need some sort of relay or something? And while we're talking basic electrics, how do I go about wiring in spotlamps? Do i just take a feed off the main beam wiring? Or do i need some sort of relay or other electrical component? If I do need a relay, what type? Where from? Thankyou
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Aug 11, 2006 13:02:27 GMT
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Great simple question, you are not alone! I nearly toasted my first micra years ago putting an amp in!
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts
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Aug 11, 2006 13:12:02 GMT
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If i remember right, your fuel pump doesn't have a massive feed going to it, so putting a switch in shouldn't be a problem. As for spotlamps, I *think* you'll need a relay, just one of those 4-connector general relays should do it (like the P6 had on it's leccy fan, and my Merc). I've got a diagram of what all the connectors should go to somewhere... How you splice it into the main beam circuit I don't know though... Man, I should work for NASA .....I'd wait for a better reply than mine before acting on it...
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Aug 11, 2006 13:23:39 GMT
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You WILL need a Relay as Benzboy said the 4 way general type... but believe it or not consider buying a 'Ring fast fit Spot lamp installation kit' from somewhere like Halfords (yes HALFORDS!) for about £11. The set comes with all the wires (correctly colour coded and size), conectors, 30 Amp Fused relay WITH Colour Coded Pre Wired Loom ( Which is normally the hardest part to do ) and even the switch and bracket (oh and instructions/wiring diagram ). So easy! wires corect size etc. also by the time you've bought a relay, fuse holder, switch, wire etc. etc. it would work out about same price!
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Aug 11, 2006 16:13:08 GMT
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Surely it depends on the rating of the switch you want to use and how much current the pump draws.
I have my fuel pump switched straight through a switch and i havent had any problems.
If the pump draws 1amp and the switch is rated at 0.8 amp then you are obviously overloading the switch.
Or am i missing the point of a relay?
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phatphord
Part of things
Scorpilow
Posts: 674
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Aug 11, 2006 16:17:59 GMT
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when i wired a cut out switch to my engine driven compressor I used a 40amp relay and wired the cut-off switch into the earth,thus negating current worries. Worked fine for the last year. I imagine you would have an earth for you fuel pump,maybe it would work as well..?
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1994 Ford Scorpio Lowrider um...and some bikes...
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Rob
Posted a lot
You know, for kids!
Posts: 2,515
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Aug 11, 2006 16:33:13 GMT
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the co. i bought it from saw no problem with fitting a basic toggle switch... i just have a basic switch on my fuel pump - i am REALLY not the person to ask tho... passes buck...
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Aug 11, 2006 17:06:45 GMT
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wiring is the main reason my sigma has sat motionless for best part of a year now. hate it and scared of it
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"quote hairnet"
I'm not paying nine pound for a pi$$!
[/quote]
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street
Posted a lot
6.2 ft/lbs of talk
Posts: 4,662
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Looks like i'm not the only one who has trouble with electrics then! i don't feel quite so bad now I think i'll use a switch in the earth from the fuel pump then, much safer! And that spotlight fitting kit might be the best bet for me then, sounds easy enough, I shall investigate. Cheers all!
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rootes
Part of things
EFi Clan
Posts: 72
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if the switch is rated to take the current draw you can just use a switch. If you fuel fuel pump is already fed via relay then you are best off putting the fill swtick in the controlling side of the relay rather then the power side, but only then as you can use a lower rated switch.
When getting a switch rmember amp ratings are related to voltage and also fuel pumps tend to draw a bit more amps on startup than when up and running.
which facet pump are you using - one of those cube shaped jobs?
Si
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street
Posted a lot
6.2 ft/lbs of talk
Posts: 4,662
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Yeah its the little cube shaped one! Tell you the truth i don't even remember where I got the feed from..... think it may have been off the heater blower wiring plug (heater and blower have been ripped out). How do i know how much current its drawing? Do I need one of those fancy voltmeter gadgets? Cheers!
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Aug 12, 2006 10:10:46 GMT
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I thought we got the feed from the old carb solenoid? Or did that not work in the end? I can't remember it's been some time!
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street
Posted a lot
6.2 ft/lbs of talk
Posts: 4,662
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Aug 12, 2006 10:54:28 GMT
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Umm, I think your right actually! Thats right cos when i took the 40's off and went to put the XR2 carb on, I realized I didn't have a solonoid wire anymore! What rating would that solonoid feed be do ya think??
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Aug 12, 2006 11:03:17 GMT
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What rating would that solonoid feed be do ya think?? I think the fuel pump rating is the important thing here - how much that draws will determine how fat a switch you'll need... I tend to fly by the seat of my pants with regards electrics and don't really know an awful lot, so hopefully someone else can clarify!
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Aug 12, 2006 11:17:41 GMT
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My advice is to buy a haynes bible, Should have good advice on wiring and all cercuit diagrams in the back.
Try an auto electrition for nuying your relays ect and pick his brains wile your on???
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