roundozo
Part of things
Retroless but not for long!
Posts: 332
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Sept 13, 2011 14:18:13 GMT
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Hi all, Go a new random problem!! Yay;  So, driving to work the other day I suddenly noticed that the battery light was on. Thought nothing of it as everything worked fine, maybe just a loose connection somewhere as it eventually went out. Today when I got in the car this morning to drive to work I noticed that the ignition lights didn’t come on at all when I turned the key. The car started fine with fuel pump and everything working. This is when I noticed that the speedo, rev counter, fuel gauge, engine temp and indicators had stopped working (makes for an interesting drive to work in rush hour!). I have had a look at the fuse box and they all look fine, no burns anywhere. I have taken them out, given it a good clean and put back and the problem is still there. I then decided to disconnect the battery to allow the ECU to reset (ECU now in for the cosy engine). This hasn’t worked either. I then decided to clean all the connectors to the rear lights as they where intermittent the other day due to poor earthing I think. Still no luck. The normal car headlights and rear lights still work, don’t know about brake lights as I can see them  . If I press the hazard lights switch they all work too. I’m stuck for things to look for.  The car is a 1978 Mk4 Cortina with a 2.9 24v BOB cossy in. It is using the BOA wiring if that help diagnose this issue. Going to have to drive home like it tonight as well so wish me luck!!!   |
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Sept 13, 2011 18:21:58 GMT
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That sounds very odd indeed. Are you using the granada clocks? Cortina speedos are cable driven!
I'd guess it is some sort of conversion related fault. It kinda sounds like the ignition barrel is giving up put I cn't explain why it still runs (everything should really be on the same ignition fed live)
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Sept 13, 2011 21:08:52 GMT
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could be the dash plug is loose or fallen out? ST normaly keeps the origional loom for the rest of the car and just inserts the engine loom but obv i cant be certain as i didn't fit it? try removing the fuse box and checking the pins under it and the plugs  As Mr scarey says speedo is usually cable unles the whole dash is granny as well |
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R.I.P photobucket
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roundozo
Part of things
Retroless but not for long!
Posts: 332
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Sept 14, 2011 12:21:19 GMT
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My bad, I just ment the Rev counter, got carried away with complaining! Speedo does still work. I started the engine last night and disconnected the old ford fuse box. Engine still runs so i presume that it is all on a separate loop. I cleaned the fuse box up as it was a bit grubby but didnt disconect the underside so maybe thats worth a look. I spent a good few hours yesterday looking for loose conections and burnt out wires but couldnt find nought! I'll take the connectors of the bottom of the fuse box and see what i can find. Fingers crossed folks!
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Sept 14, 2011 12:24:26 GMT
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my mate had this with his capri and his alternator wires had melted on the exhaust. Pretty much the exact symptoms your mentioning. Didnt make sense at the time but ran new wires and it was fine
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Sept 15, 2011 5:48:28 GMT
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Check the alternator is charging properly, under voltage or over voltage will cause all kinds of strange faults.
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R.S. Autotech. Servicing/Repairs/Diagnostics.
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roundozo
Part of things
Retroless but not for long!
Posts: 332
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Sept 15, 2011 8:50:09 GMT
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How do I do that? I presume I need a volt meter of some sort? So if the alternator is packed up it could be sending all sorts of wrong signals?? To make things more confusing.... On Tuesday night I disconnected the battery and left it like that for the whole of Wednesday in the hope it might “reset” something. When I got back home in the evening I thought I’d plug it all back in just to see if that had helped. Well the results were interesting indeed.........  So with the battery connected I put the key in the ignition. I turned the key only once to see if the ignition lights can on this time. They did!! (very weakly, but they did) This unfortunately was short lived. I started the car, nothing wrong there. As the car started the heater fan came on because I’d left it on the last time I was driving it (wasn’t working with the other electrical failures but now it was). I thought I’d really test this sudden turn around of life and try to use the indicators. As soon as I put the stalk down to the left, everything died!! Heater fan came to a standstill, rev counter dropped, fuel gauge fell, engine temp died. I also presume the brake lights have gone again as they must be on the same loop. I thought I’d then check the radio, tape of the commodores in (nice), and that works so I presume that its on a different loop. Electrical things that don’t seem to work; Rev counter Fuel gauge Brake lights Indicators Heater fan Cooling fan (in front of radiator) Electrical things that seem to still work; Interior light Hazard lights Radio Lights, front and rear Dashboard lights Rear window de-mister (that might actually not work but cant really tell this time of year) I think that’s about it on the electrical side of things on a 78 Cortina I’m getting proper stumped now? To make things worse I’m now getting to work on a bicycle and if that wasn’t bad enough even that broke on me today  !!! Think I might just get a horse. |
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Sept 15, 2011 9:03:17 GMT
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looks to me like everything thats on an ignition live is not working, while the stuff thats permamant live IS working, mayeb an ignition switch failiure?
If it was me i'd fit a spare switch or pull the plug that goes to the ignition switch and try "jumping" the ignition wire across the plug to see if that cures the problem.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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roundozo
Part of things
Retroless but not for long!
Posts: 332
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Sept 15, 2011 9:15:46 GMT
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Hi Popuptoaster, without sounding too stupid, this electrical stuff is all new to me. where would the switch be? I have taken the trim off around the steering column and the carpet around the peddles but don’t really now what I’m looking for. Don’t suppose you have a diagram or something? I had a look at the back on the ignition barrel but there are just so many wires!!
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Sept 15, 2011 9:25:56 GMT
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Grab a millimeter and measure the voltage between the battery earth terminal and the earth points for the components that aren't working. You need to do this with the ignition on and power running through the circuit your testing. Anything more than 250 mv and you have a earth problem.
To test the alternate just measure battery voltage with the engine running. It should be around 14 volts. Rev the engine and make sure it doesn't go any higher than about 14.6.
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R.S. Autotech. Servicing/Repairs/Diagnostics.
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Sept 15, 2011 9:28:48 GMT
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^multimeter?
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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Sept 15, 2011 10:41:16 GMT
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Hi Popuptoaster, without sounding too stupid, this electrical stuff is all new to me. where would the switch be? I have taken the trim off around the steering column and the carpet around the peddles but don’t really now what I’m looking for. Don’t suppose you have a diagram or something? I had a look at the back on the ignition barrel but there are just so many wires!! the switch is screwed on the back of the barrel with security screws, from memory though if you follow the wires back from the switch they go into a multiplug which you can unplug, i don't have the colour code here but with a haynes manual you should be able to work out how to get the ignition to come on by bridging across a couple of terminals. of course it may well end up faster and be less frustrating to just pay an auto electrician. |
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Sept 15, 2011 10:52:30 GMT
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Poxy phone. Although if your hands are small enough to grab a millimeter I say go for go it. |
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R.S. Autotech. Servicing/Repairs/Diagnostics.
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roundozo
Part of things
Retroless but not for long!
Posts: 332
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Sept 15, 2011 11:21:54 GMT
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Poxy phone. Although if your hands are small enough to grab a millimeter I say go for go it. LOL. I work for a college who have a garage so they have been quite usefull in lending tools to me. I cant take my car there though as the students work on them and I'm not too keen on that. I'm sure they'll have one i can borrow. They might even havea millimeter! |
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roundozo
Part of things
Retroless but not for long!
Posts: 332
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Sept 15, 2011 13:13:02 GMT
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Right got me a multimeter! I've had another thought about the "issue". The battery in the car is a pretty small one. It used to power the old 2.8 that was in there before with no issues. Now i've used the same battery in the car now and it has started first time, everytime. Its quite small (cant remember the size) and is probably not suitable for the 2.9 24v. Do you think that the alternator is putting too much power back to the tiny battery and its having to go elsewhere?
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Sept 15, 2011 13:29:53 GMT
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R.S. Autotech. Servicing/Repairs/Diagnostics.
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roundozo
Part of things
Retroless but not for long!
Posts: 332
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Sept 15, 2011 13:57:24 GMT
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unfortunately my work comp wont let me see that link ^ I also don’t believe it could be that either as it has been working fine for about a month now. I think the alternator has either packed in or something more sinister has happened. Really struggling for ideas at the mo.  |
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Last Edit: Sept 15, 2011 13:58:21 GMT by roundozo
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Sept 15, 2011 14:40:16 GMT
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I suggest you have a look at it when you get a chance. It explains things a lot clearer than I could and should give you the basics to start trouble shooting on your own. It's probably best to not try and speculate on what the fault could be until you've got enough info to make a sound diagnosis. You could spend weeks chasing your tail and replacing unnecessary parts that way.
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R.S. Autotech. Servicing/Repairs/Diagnostics.
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roundozo
Part of things
Retroless but not for long!
Posts: 332
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Sept 15, 2011 14:47:28 GMT
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^ agreed.
I remember trying to fix my first car as it kept stalling for some reason. didnt know what it was so started buying new HT leads and all sorts. found the issue later and it turned out to be a worn point in the dizzy cap! lesson learned.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Sept 15, 2011 17:49:10 GMT
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Right got me a multimeter! I've had another thought about the "issue". The battery in the car is a pretty small one. It used to power the old 2.8 that was in there before with no issues. Now i've used the same battery in the car now and it has started first time, everytime. Its quite small (cant remember the size) and is probably not suitable for the 2.9 24v. Do you think that the alternator is putting too much power back to the tiny battery and its having to go elsewhere? Doesn't work like that the alt only puts out what is needed IF it's working ok. Fist off check both battery terminals are tight, then check the 2 earths on the body and the engine, also worth a check is the black wire on the battery live, that runs for about 8 inches then is solderd to 6 or 7 other black wires, these are the perminant lives to the fuse box, make sure that single wire has not melted. while the ign surround is off make sure there is an earth bolted on one of the 4 switch bolts (indicator and lights). pay special attention to the ign switch plug if there is any sign of melting that could be where the problem lays? remove the fuse box and check the plugs under and the ones that pass through the bulkhead (2 round ones next to the servo). |
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Last Edit: Sept 15, 2011 17:51:32 GMT by bortaf
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. If I press the hazard lights switch they all work too. I’m stuck for things to look for. 
