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Sept 10, 2011 12:03:48 GMT
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The rev counter in the midget doesn't work and is one of the last things on the snagging list to complete the resto and so I need to replace it. It seems that the done thing is to match the "face numbers" of which there seem to be millions and mine very rarely appear second hand. Could I use a gauge with a different number?. Has anyone retro fitted a smiths rev counter with out trouble?. I'm not even sure the gauge in the car is original or ever worked in this car. It seems no one can say what these numbers relate to or what happens if you use a different one. Any help would be great, thanks. The offending item  |
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funkyhunk
Part of things
Old Ford's R Us
Posts: 265
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Sept 10, 2011 12:36:43 GMT
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Last Edit: Sept 10, 2011 12:37:12 GMT by funkyhunk
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Sept 10, 2011 14:17:10 GMT
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most old smiths tachos just use an ignition switched live, an earth, a feed for the lighting and a signal feed from the neagative side of the coil, so shouldnt be hard to swap it for a similar one the same size.
they count pulses from the engine, so you need a 4 pot one for a 4 pot engine, although they can be adjusted inside i think.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Sept 10, 2011 14:21:39 GMT
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what age is the car? I think smiths changed the design of the rev counters arround 1972. if it says RVI by the smiths loago on the front of the gauge, then its an inductive one and is connected in series between the ignition switch and coil +ve . aparanty they don't work very well with aftermarket electronic modules that replace the points/condenser. If its a later model revcounter, its a RVC one, that works off voltage and is just connected to earth and coil -ve. I got what appears to be an identical rev counter to yours to fit into my herald, but failed miserably at getting it to work with an magnetic pickup in a distributor. mine was a RVI type rev counter, so I ended up making a new circuit board to fit the rev counter which works like the later voltage ones. here's me prototyping the circuit  while using the magnetic distributor module in a drill (to simulate a distributor)  and the final board with the original.  should be ok when I get round to rebuilding my Herald, hopefully you find an easier solution to the problem ;D ;D ;D ;D |
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Sept 10, 2011 15:44:46 GMT
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The cars a 67 and still has a 1275 with a standard distributor though it has been converted to negative earth and from what I can see inside the conversion was done to the rev counter as well. Not sure if it shows in the pic  Mine is the same as yours RVI 2401/01, though I have no idea if it belongs to the car or is just filling a hole in the dash. Are these inductive pick ups reliable?. Is it worth swaping it for a later one and re wiring it?. |
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Sept 10, 2011 17:05:55 GMT
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I don't know how reliable they are as I couldnt get mine to work. If I couldnt have done a new circuit board, I would have got one from a later model. The ignition system with an RVC type of rev counter should be more reliable as there is less wiring because rev counter is an accessory rather than than part of the ignition, and there is much less wiring (and connections) in the ignition circuit.
if you get do get a later rev counter, look for one that has a speedo with the same top speed as yours. as prouction seems to have been standardized on Smiths gauges, you can swap the needle and dial over if the number or turns per mile is different.
if you want to keep points and condenser ignition or swap to electronic ignition will have a bearing on which route you take too
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