ftz313
Part of things
Posts: 221
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i reckon the seal on my input shaft has gone and now clutch slips in 4th at 30mph etc thanks to oil contamination.. Theresplenty of life left in the clutch in terms of wear.Can i clean it and just put it back in or is it pernanenraly knackered now?
Any suggestions?
ps will change the seal!
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Yes, you will have to change the clutch once it has been contaminated with oil.  How do you know it's got plenty of life left and not worn out? When ever l changes the clutch l would do the whole lot, clutch,cover and bearing you'd might as well save pulling it apart later  What about the end crank seal? |
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barty
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,088
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Sept 9, 2011 10:05:35 GMT
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yup, sounds like the crank seal has gone, it will need replacing along with the clutch, you will prob get away with just the clutch plate if the rest is as new but any doubts change the lot while you have it apart. I have heard of people sticking brakes and clutches with oil contamination in an oven to dry them out but i personally wouldnt bother cos if it don't work you will only have to take the gearbox off again to change the clutch for the second time
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Sept 9, 2011 17:13:56 GMT
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Don't put them in the oven it can cause the linings to break up afterwards. Far better to just put a new one on.
At the very least you will need to change the friction plate. The pressure plate and bearing may be ok but personally id change them whilst you've got access.
Obviously change the seal you think is causing the problem but as Rob and Barty have said the crank end seal is likely culprit as well.
I presume you know when you change the clutch you will need to use a centering tool otherwise you wont get the box to mate up. A suitable first motion shaft or a long bolt wrapped in masking tape will do the same job.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Sept 9, 2011 21:28:12 GMT
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Don't put them in the oven it can cause the linings to break up afterwards. Far better to just put a new one on. I don't see why it would if you're sensible. We're not talking about putting it in the oven at full whack, just at a temperature that's warm enough to evaporate and drive off the oil. Clutches have to capable of taking a fair amount of heat generated in use. Personally I wouldn't put a clutch in the oven to remove oil because then I'd have an oven full of oil fumes |
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Last Edit: Sept 9, 2011 21:28:53 GMT by Rich606
1989 Peugeot 205. You know, the one that was parked in a ditch on the campsite at RRG'17... the glass is always full. but the ratio of air to water may vary. |
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murran
Part of things
Posts: 610
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Sept 10, 2011 16:42:39 GMT
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can you not stick the clutch plate in a big sauce pan and boil it up in some water?
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Sept 10, 2011 19:33:58 GMT
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It may not have the such an effect in the oven but boiling water definatly does. Ive had it happen to me.
Why take the risk?
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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scruff
Part of things
Posts: 621
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Sept 10, 2011 19:37:58 GMT
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Brake cleaner? It's made for cleaning up brake linings so it's got to be about right...
That said how much is the driven plate? If it's common it might only be £20 for a new one...
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Last Edit: Sept 10, 2011 19:38:44 GMT by scruff
1994 Lotus Esprit - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
1980 Porsche 924 - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
I spy a trend...
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Sept 10, 2011 20:21:48 GMT
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assuming the bell housing has a hole for access(cable clutch) or a suitable hole somewhere on the bell housing, old trick we used to use(army) was to have some one pumping the clutch pedal slowly up and down while another squirted a measured dose of a powder fire extinguisher into the bell housing,turning the motor after each squirt and stops it slipping, never failed to get us home and often never wanted doing again for months, we didnt used to bother but a mask and goggles may be advisable  may be worth a try? assuming you want to use the car? |
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Sept 10, 2011 20:41:16 GMT
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Modern plates seem to break up after being contaminated, older ones didn't and certainly 60's brake linnings and clutches you could do it with but modern stuff? i'd just change the palte personly.
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R.I.P photobucket
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,191
Club RR Member Number: 170
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oil contaminated clutch helpChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Sept 11, 2011 23:11:35 GMT
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What car is it, and how do you know it has plenty of life left? Was it changed recently or are you going off pedal positioning regarding the biting point?
If the clutch is more than a few years old I'd probably change the lot anyway. A new clutch can be a revelation for changing gear (lightness of pedal, biting point etc.) assuming you go with a half decent clutch.
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Sept 12, 2011 5:47:18 GMT
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brake and clutch cleaner its what the stuff was developed for i've decontaminated many a clutch with the stuff and never had a problem comes from years of working for a tight boss ;D . if it totally soaked then it probably wont work but if its just on the fiction surfaces it should sort it out my need a couple of goes then leave it to thoroughly dry out .
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Last Edit: Sept 12, 2011 5:48:29 GMT by Deleted
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barty
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,088
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Sept 13, 2011 11:36:59 GMT
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my suggestion for putting it in the oven is only on a mild heat and no i wouldnt do it anyway as the clutches are fairly cheap and (and the wife wouldnt be happy with me lol) i wouldnt want to remove the gearbox again if it didnt work. I would change the friction plate at least, but thats only assuming that the rest of the clutch is new.
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ftz313
Part of things
Posts: 221
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Final update on this being that I had the clutch 'sweated' with the oxyacetylene at the local mot place.
Basically they just heated the clutch up with the gas bottles going round and round in a circular motion. The oil mist that came off it was pretty impressive and stunk the garage out but so far and I've got pics somewhere but it seems to have worked.
Was worried about it cracking the lining etc but it all seems good.
Cost me a pack of biscuits though.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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Jan 17, 2012 20:50:56 GMT
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was just about to say the same thing ,done many over the years for hard up customers and never had an issue .
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dungbug
Posted a lot
'Ooligan!
Posts: 2,852
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Was the crank seal gone as well? The oil must have come from somewhere (?)
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Past: 13 VW Beetles from 1967 - 1974
Bay Window Campers (1973 & 1974)
Mini's (1992 Cooper lookalike & 1984 '25 Anniversary)
MK2 Polo Coupe S (1984 & 1986)
MK2 Polo Breadvan (1981 & 1984)
MK4 Escort (1989)
MK2 Granada Based Hearse (seriously)
Fiat Uno 60S (1986) Punto 60S (1998) Cinq (1997)
1998 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat
2003 Ford KA
Current: 2004 Ford Focus (barely alive)
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When young,and broke, we cleaned oil contaminated clutch plates (and brake shoes) by washing in petrol and then setting fire to them ! Never had a problem but wouldn't do it now.
To be fair that was on older cars from 1950's, 60's & early 70's when you still has asbestos friction material.
Paul h
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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oil contaminated clutch helpDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Jan 24, 2012 10:04:56 GMT
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if its been slipping lots, id pay very close attention to the condition of the flywheel and PP- ive cleaned contaminated ones up before( soaked overnight in a bucket of brake cleaner) only for them to judder like a curse word afterwards because the extra heat generated by the constant slipping has warped or cracked the flywheel. youre looking for blued areas, radial cracks, softened springs in the PP, and burnt on black oil deposits. the latter can be removed with sandpaper of scortchbrite, the rest will require a skim or a new flywheel.
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may be worth a try? assuming you want to use the car?
