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Sept 2, 2011 13:56:16 GMT
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i've spent aaaaages making a centre console out of MDF for the capri and now it's time to dress it up. now i'm in a rush to finish it for a photoshoot on monday and i don't want to ruin all my hard work.
i've got 2 vertical sides in MDF with a flat piece of hardboard in the middle. the hardboard piece totally absorbed the black plasticote i tried to cover it with and i thought i better stop before i ruined it!
so what should i use? i want a smooth finish so i can't brush it. can i spray primer onto MDF and hardboard or will it be absorbed like the plasticote was? also do i have to seal the edges first? and what with?
ideally i'd like to fill a few grooves left by the jigsaw then sand it down and paint over but the stuff i had which i thought would act as filler has dried really rubbery (thankfully on a test piece)
has anyone got any tips? i have to try and finish this off before monday night while working all of the daylight hours between now and then. and with that......
off to work!
thanks
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col
Part of things
wut
Posts: 190
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Sept 2, 2011 14:28:32 GMT
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for filling just use body filler. you should be able to seal it with some watered down pva glue.
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Sept 2, 2011 14:38:43 GMT
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hammerite stonechip paint works suprisingly well on mdf
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Sept 2, 2011 16:01:26 GMT
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for filling just use body filler. you should be able to seal it with some watered down pva glue. i'll give this a bash cos i've got a massive bottle of PVA hammerite stonechip paint works suprisingly well on mdf does the name stonechip refer to some kind of funky finish? or is it nice and smooth? |
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Sept 2, 2011 16:55:54 GMT
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no i think it refers to being resistant to stone related chipping of paint. goes on pretty much like satin black
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Sept 2, 2011 21:17:22 GMT
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Proper MDF primer works well, get it from a hardware shop, be prepared to flat it after priming and re prime as it goes fluffy on cut edges. Car body filler is as good as the way more expensive 2 part wood filler.
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BiAS
Club Retro Rides Member
Insert witty comment here
Posts: 2,231
Club RR Member Number: 147
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painting MDFBiAS
@cheeqi
Club Retro Rides Member 147
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Sept 2, 2011 21:35:26 GMT
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Black vinyl cut from the seat backs of something at the breakers, can of spray glue from B&Q (other DIY/carpet stores are available) couple of hours stretching and gluing, no long hours of prep and sanding, no worries about chipping it, and it won't look like MDF
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(car+wheels)-rideheight=WIN
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,656 
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Sept 2, 2011 21:50:27 GMT
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Normal celly works a charm on mdf, as does normal filler, i've made many a boot install doing just this
Not sure about the hardboard, by its very nature its, err, well, curse word!
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Copey
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,845
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Sept 3, 2011 16:00:53 GMT
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have just used normal rattle cans in the past on wood
dare say filler primer would be enough to fill it and give a flat surface after a sand
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1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire GLSi with 2.0 Zetec
1985 Ford Capri 3.0 (was a 2.0 Laser originally)
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Sept 3, 2011 18:02:26 GMT
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Normal celly works a charm on mdf, as does normal filler, i've made many a boot install doing just this Not sure about the hardboard, by its very nature its, err, well, curse word! agreed. definitely wrong choice of material. i just need it to look presentable for monday then i can pull it out and replace it with MDF. i'll get some photos up when i'm done. it honestly doesn't look as naff as i've probably made it sound! |
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Sept 5, 2011 14:06:41 GMT
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the ends will be very porous. Either use watered down PVA to seal these or you can use body filler to skim it all up or you can use spray filler/spray putty or you can use a mixture of the above.
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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madmog
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,159
Club RR Member Number: 46
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painting MDFmadmog
@madmog
Club Retro Rides Member 46
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Sept 23, 2011 7:42:19 GMT
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In general, for the ends of MDF when I'm making cupboards, I used an oil-based varnish then sand smooth. I find that water-based anything on the ends makes it start to expand. Varnish acts more like fibreglass resin and seems to bind together the mdf dust into something that can be sanded to a smooth finish
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Sept 23, 2011 12:26:29 GMT
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You CAN get a "car body" quality paint finish using MDF. This is something we used to do at college for making design prototypes. It's some years since I did this (OK, it's 15 years!) but I still remember the basics.
1/ Make your own filler by mixing MDF dust from sanding with PVA glue
2/ Sand off the original outer finish on the MDF to make the untreated finish more porous
3/ Apply an acid catalysed laquer to the sanded surface (plenty of info on google) - you apply this with a brush, then sand back with wet & dry then repeat, using increasingly fine grades of wet & dry - the coats are built up until the finish is hard and smooth, no longer porous.
4/ Spray with primer, wet & dry back
5/ Continue to finish as if spraying a car body repair
We used to spray with cellulose based car paint aerosols in a chamber that effectively "sucked" the spray paint onto the object, this helped to prevent the paint drying mid-air and causing a matt finish. I expect you could rig something similar with an old hoover, or just rotary polish the surface to a shine.
Acid catalysed laquer is what we used to use when spraying top coats with a cellolose based paint. If you intend to finish with acrylic based spray, it might be better to use an acrylic based laquer?
From memory, we used to do about 3-4 laquer coats, 2-3 primer coats and howver many top coats we could be arsed with!
Done properly, the finish will eventually look like highly polished painted metal, it is pretty time consuming, but worth the effort.
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🇿🇼Kingludba🇬🇧
Part of things
If in doubt... flat out !
Posts: 975
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Sept 24, 2011 12:54:26 GMT
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don't forget to post pics of the finished article here first!!!  |
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`99 BMW 528i auto - current `01 Merc C320 - Gone `01 Forester S-Turbo - Sold `89 BMW 320i Convertible - Sold(shoulda kept it  ) `88 Toyota MR2 T-Bar - Sold `89 BMW 325i touring - Sold `89 BMW 535i - Let her go too early `85 BMW 320i 2 door - Rust = character `00 Subaru Impreza Turbo wagon - Sold (engine failure) `93 BMW 325i - Sold |
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