|
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 12:50:13 GMT
|
I've been having various overheating troubles since I've had my van - run on, pinking on hot days, doesn't like starting when hot, water not circulating properly despite a new pump and thermostat - so I got a gasket set and the head has come off for a look inside. There's lots of signs of serious overheating and a big crack in the waterway between the middle two cylinders with hairline cracks radiating out and meeting the combustion chambers either side.  The block doesn't look bad but there are marks on a couple of the bores. I have been calling round all the local breakers, but I suspect the chances of finding a head or a whole engine for a 1972 Toyota are pretty slim and probably with decent odds of ending up with more scrap. So realistically what are my options? Can such damage be successfully repaired or will welding it always be a temporary fix? Is there a source of 40 year old Japanese motors somewhere I've yet to find? It's an early 4 manifold stud Toyota 12R engine by the way, 1600cc. Thanks people. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 12:53:53 GMT
|
|
Unless you're after a 100-point restoration, I'd be looking for a later, better Toyota engine to put in there. I'm sure you'd find some kind of Toyota engine from the 1980s which would fit in the hole and probably even adapt to the same gearbox and everything. You could probably get a 2 litre engine with a useful amount more power and torque for next to nothing.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 13:01:03 GMT
|
|
I am wondering about that. The thing is there's not much width for it to squeeze into. Probably less than 55cm between the vertical wheel tubs. Also, How would I go about researching the bell housing stud patterns?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 13:19:16 GMT
|
|
You'd have to check with some sort of Toyota experts, but I would imagine that there's a decent chance that most of the R-series Toyota engines should be roughly compatible. Maybe try asking on some Toyota forums? If you wait long enough, I'm sure that a Toyota expert will emerge on here, as RR is a very knowledgeable collective. According to wikipedia, the most modern derivative of your engine is the 22R which was used all the way up to 1995 in the Hilux/Pickup.
|
| |
|
|
bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 18:27:32 GMT
|
|
Your not going to be able to repair that head at home.
Ive had a crack repaired in an alloy head. Sent it to a specialist who used a process they called stitching to repair it. However it was expensive £600 and I don't even know whether its possible on a cast head. To be honest putting a different engine in sounds like the best option
|
| |
Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
|
|
B-8-D
Posted a lot
down to one car!!
Posts: 4,038
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 18:42:59 GMT
|
|
it could possibly be stitched.. but without seeing it its hard to tell..
welding cast is not something i would recomend on an iron head..
si
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2011 20:38:27 GMT
|
Thanks for the replies guys. Just had an eventful afternoon. After a bit of calling round various engineering firms I found out this motor was used on plant - forklifts etc, besides vans and pickups. (Some early Coronas were unlucky enough to get it too!) Found someone who remembers them well over near Poole and took the head for him to have a look. It turns out it was a common fault back then and his firm did a lot of warranty work for Toyota. So, I've left it with them for welding and then it gets destressed before a final skim. £140 all up with a years warranty.  It was a lucky find as this guy retires at the end of the week. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lucky find! I'm looking for somone who can weld a crack in my cast iron exhaust manifold and doing some research into how they do it, turns out the item has to be pre heated in a furnace till cherry red then welded while hot! That's why it costs so much |
| |
Remember the days when sex was safe and motorsport was dangerous. Vintage bling always attracts pussy. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 3, 2011 13:55:38 GMT
|
Lucky find! I'm looking for somone who can weld a crack in my cast iron exhaust manifold and doing some research into how they do it, turns out the item has to be pre heated in a furnace till cherry red then welded while hot! That's why it costs so much Yep, that's what I was told. And it's supposed to be cooled slowly over several days to relieve the stress. I left it in their capable hands and I suspect they may have ended up stitching it after saying that (whatever that entails). It was mentioned that they've certainly fixed a lot worse. Picking it up on Monday so I'll report back with some pics. It's Robinson Engineering if you fancy giving them a try. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 5, 2011 10:55:30 GMT
|
 It did get welded then skimmed all over by 5 thou. Excuse fluff and grubby finger marks - my fault. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 6, 2011 14:00:50 GMT
|
Looks like a nice job. Good luck with it.  I've just spoken to a guy near me who said that they use a new kind of welding rod which runs a lower amperage so not as hot. He pre heats with a propane kit to clean the iron. Not sure myself, that kinda sounds like brazing!?! |
| |
Remember the days when sex was safe and motorsport was dangerous. Vintage bling always attracts pussy. |
|
bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
|
|
Sept 6, 2011 14:14:32 GMT
|
It did get welded then skimmed all over by 5 thou. Excuse fluff and grubby finger marks - my fault. Looks good please make sure that fluff and finger marks are cleaned off before you refit it otherwise you could have more problems later on down the line. |
| |
Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 6, 2011 14:28:13 GMT
|
|
I'm not sure how fluff and finger prints can be a problem when you're dealing with something as agricultural as an cast iron head? Or did I miss some well hidden sarcasm?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Looks like a nice job. Good luck with it. I've just spoken to a guy near me who said that they use a new kind of welding rod which runs a lower amperage so not as hot. He pre heats with a propane kit to clean the iron. Not sure myself, that kinda sounds like brazing!?! Thanks That does sound a bit like brazing or soldering to me, like your getting dissimilar metals to alloy at a lower temperature. I might still have some special cast iron arc welding sticks somewhere. Got them ages ago to weld an old lamppost together that was snapped in the middle. Needless to say they my welding skills were rubbish and wasn't even able to lift the thing back upright again. Definitely wouldn't have felt safe walking by it on a windy day I'm not sure how fluff and finger prints can be a problem when you're dealing with something as agricultural as an cast iron head? Or did I miss some well hidden sarcasm? Erm, I dunno. But all the cutting oil did get wiped off with something better than paper towel later on. |
| |
|
|
bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
|
|
Sept 8, 2011 19:29:13 GMT
|
I'm not sure how fluff and finger prints can be a problem when you're dealing with something as agricultural as an cast iron head? Or did I miss some well hidden sarcasm? It probably wouldn't but it is best practice to keep things spotless as dirt and fluff do effect how well things seal. |
| |
Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Looks like a nice job. Good luck with it. I've just spoken to a guy near me who said that they use a new kind of welding rod which runs a lower amperage so not as hot. He pre heats with a propane kit to clean the iron. Not sure myself, that kinda sounds like brazing!?! Thanks That does sound a bit like brazing or soldering to me, like your getting dissimilar metals to alloy at a lower temperature. I might still have some special cast iron arc welding sticks somewhere. Got them ages ago to weld an old lamppost together that was snapped in the middle. Needless to say they my welding skills were rubbish and wasn't even able to lift the thing back upright again. Definitely wouldn't have felt safe walking by it on a windy day Don't think my welding skills would be up to it either tbh. I might give it a go, he said it'd only be £25. Just got to get an exhaust manifold off that's been on 60 years  |
| |
Remember the days when sex was safe and motorsport was dangerous. Vintage bling always attracts pussy. |
|
The block doesn't look bad but there are marks on a couple of the bores.
