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Aug 30, 2011 19:41:45 GMT
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Apologies for the utter utter ***** modern content, but I'm in the process of tracing the niggles in the new economical Sh*tbox my wife insisted we buy.
It seems quite lumpy to me, but I'm only really used to engines 2000cc+
It was serviced in Jan, and has done about 5k since. I pulled each of the plug leads and tested for resistance. The shortest cable being 15ohm, the longest 24ohm. Couldn't test continuity, as the meter moved rapidly and beeped once.
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Aug 30, 2011 20:55:28 GMT
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I'm on a laptop with shoddy speakers so can't really tell, but it doesn't sound like it's missing. Have you tried pulling the leads, one at a time whilst it's running. If it sounds different, it's firing on that cylinder, if it makes no difference you've found your problem.
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring. |
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kv77
Part of things
Posts: 62
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I'm pretty sure that STOP light shouldn't be on
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<a href="http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=81096&page=1"> My 1975 Mazda 616</a>
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I'm pretty sure that STOP light shouldn't be on Comes on with the handbrake. |
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I'm on a laptop with shoddy speakers so can't really tell, but it doesn't sound like it's missing. Have you tried pulling the leads, one at a time whilst it's running. If it sounds different, it's firing on that cylinder, if it makes no difference you've found your problem. Is that wise? I did it once before on a mini and got thrown across the workshop. |
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Sept 2, 2011 15:03:36 GMT
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Use insulated pliers, you'll be fine. Stings a bit though doesn't it?
I had a quick google and this seems to be a common thing on Clios/Renaults.
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Sept 2, 2011 21:24:16 GMT
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I'm on a laptop with shoddy speakers so can't really tell, but it doesn't sound like it's missing. Have you tried pulling the leads, one at a time whilst it's running. If it sounds different, it's firing on that cylinder, if it makes no difference you've found your problem. Is that wise? I did it once before on a mini and got thrown across the workshop. Then you'll know for this time that using insulated pliers is a safer bet  Yanking a lead is a perfectly legitimate method of diagnosing where a misfire is coming from, and to be honest I normally do it with my hands but have very occasionally got a tingle. This is an open forum, and my opinion should not be considered as qualified so if you aren't happy, quote your Haynes or whatever for health and safety issues of the high tension side of an ignition system |
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring. |
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Sept 2, 2011 22:21:46 GMT
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From the engine rocking it does look like it's misfiring. The best way to see if it is misfiring: rather than listening to the engine, listen to the exhaust at the rear of the car. If you're listening under the bonnet you've got all sorts of repetitive noises that mask the combustion proper. If it is missing then you'll get 'holes' in the exhaust note where the large amount of hot gas caused by burning the fuel is missing.
With the engine off pull the leads off the plugs and rest them back in place - this means that you aren't trying to release the spring clips while trying not to get shocked or burnt. Insulated pliers or an insulated screwdriver are very useful - although it can be difficult to get the leads back on when using a screwdriver...
If the engine runs much rougher when you pull a lead off, that coil/lead/plug is fine. If it doesn't get any worse, the coil or lead (or dizzy cap if the car has a dizzy) is faulty.
If it momentarily gets much smoother as you pull the lead off it's probably the spark plug - try to hold the lead's contact 2 or 3 milimetres above the plug's contact. This increases the power available to the plug, which can help a dirty plug fire even if it won't fire normally.
Worthwhile checking before you spend ££ on new coils and leads.
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From the engine rocking it does look like it's misfiring. The best way to see if it is misfiring: rather than listening to the engine, listen to the exhaust at the rear of the car. If you're listening under the bonnet you've got all sorts of repetitive noises that mask the combustion proper. If it is missing then you'll get 'holes' in the exhaust note where the large amount of hot gas caused by burning the fuel is missing. With the engine off pull the leads off the plugs and rest them back in place - this means that you aren't trying to release the spring clips while trying not to get shocked or burnt. Insulated pliers or an insulated screwdriver are very useful - although it can be difficult to get the leads back on when using a screwdriver... If the engine runs much rougher when you pull a lead off, that coil/lead/plug is fine. If it doesn't get any worse, the coil or lead (or dizzy cap if the car has a dizzy) is faulty. If it momentarily gets much smoother as you pull the lead off it's probably the spark plug - try to hold the lead's contact 2 or 3 milimetres above the plug's contact. This increases the power available to the plug, which can help a dirty plug fire even if it won't fire normally. Worthwhile checking before you spend ££ on new coils and leads. That's great, cheers. It makes a lot of sense really, the car generally smells quite rich so it sounds like unburntness is getting down the exhaust. |
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kv77
Part of things
Posts: 62
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Sept 4, 2011 10:03:01 GMT
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I'm pretty sure that STOP light shouldn't be on Comes on with the handbrake. I have a renault too and when the STOP light comes on, it means you shouldn't drive it anymore, go to a dealer and hand over lots of money (low brake fluid, worn pads, fault code in system and car in limp mode, ....) |
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<a href="http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=81096&page=1"> My 1975 Mazda 616</a>
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Sept 4, 2011 15:46:01 GMT
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Interesting. I only have the stop sign with the handbrake on......
Edit.
Apparently it's normal on the 1.2
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Last Edit: Sept 4, 2011 16:40:59 GMT by Soopahfly
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Yanking a lead is a perfectly legitimate method of diagnosing where a misfire is coming from, and to be honest I normally do it with my hands but have very occasionally got a tingle.