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Hi chaps! This has probably been covered before but I couldn't find much on the subject that pertained to my query. I'm putting polycarb rear windows on the Chevette and was thinking about ways of fixing them in. I don't want to use the original rubbers as they've perished and I prefer the riveted style anyhow. What's the best way to go about this? Is there a seal of some sort that goes between the polycarb and the window recess? I don't intend the car to be comfortable in anyway but I'm betting a whistling window would pi$$ me off just a little bit. Also what thickness is recommended? I had 4mm in my mind but 3mm is available also, would this be too thin? Cheers! Dave Have a tasty Chevette on me...
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Faster. Faster. Until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
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Copey
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,845
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My mate works for a vehicle glass company, he says they have tried all sorts of "specialist" sealents and the likes, but he said the best thing he has used is tigerseal, it's strong as and has a slight flex so doesnt crack or anything as it ages, so leaks aren't likely, says he has fitted polly windows with them on track toys and has used it to bond on proper windows too
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1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire GLSi with 2.0 Zetec 1985 Ford Capri 3.0 (was a 2.0 Laser originally)
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Is that using Tigerseal as a sealant and rivets as the fastener? I'd have a (probably unfounded) fear of the window blowing out if the front windows were open at speed. Thanks for the Knowledge Copey!
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Faster. Faster. Until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
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Where are you getting your polycarbonate from mate? I heard of a place near Nottingham that was very high quality, to a point where he Guaranteed you wouldn't tell the diff looks wise between the poly and glass!
Tempted to do my rear screen to rid of the heated screen ugliness!
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+1 for tigerseal.. the windscreen on Mayday is held in with it. No top to the frame and no rivets or bolts, just the tigerseal.
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Aug 29, 2011 10:18:01 GMT
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Tigerseal is good stuff. A bead of sealant and a few rivets or button head screws seems to be the norm with race cars, although an increasing number seem not to be bothering with the rivets/screws. I'm guessing you'll just be buying the sheet and making the windows your self, but there's a chap in Weston who specialises in polycarbonate windows for cars, I had a chat with him a Combe a while ago and he seemed good, really nice guy and willing to help out where he could. I'll try and find his card. Just found it, it's ACW Motorsport Plastics, like I said, very nice guy and seemed keen to expand his range of off the shelf windows, iirc he said there'd be no extra charge to do my mini estate ones as long as I gave him templates/the original glass.
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prey
Part of things
Posts: 856
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Aug 29, 2011 10:34:17 GMT
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3mm would be fine from a practical point of view but if you're ever thinking of racing/rallying I think 4mm is required.
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Aug 29, 2011 10:46:01 GMT
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as above, 4mm min for MSA events.
What I have seen used which makes sense is nylon fasteners plus stuff like tigerseal, less chance of cracking as you'd have with steel fasteners and you'll still be able to kick them out if needs be!
Tigerseal on its own will hold them pretty securely tbh!
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Aug 29, 2011 11:20:20 GMT
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Sikaflex make a product intended specifically for bonding to Polycarbonate. 295 is the one you want - and the black one is UV-stabilised. Not cheap - and on metal you need the primer too - but it should hold for years in the harshest conditions.
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Aug 29, 2011 11:20:20 GMT
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I've got Lexan Margard windows all around on my Toledo. I personally wouldn't go down to 3mm, I'd imagine too much flex. With the 4mm that I have, I was able to use the standard rubbers. Also, polycarbonate will scratch a lot, every time you wash them, even when you are very careful, so I would highly recommend the lexan margard if you can stretch to it.
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Last Edit: Aug 29, 2011 11:58:54 GMT by alolympic
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Aug 29, 2011 11:30:37 GMT
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People shouldn't be scared of gluing in flush-fitting windows with sealant, after all that's how they're done on modern cars! The key is to have a big enough flange and a big enough bead of sealant.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Aug 29, 2011 13:14:42 GMT
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Another vote for tiger seal here i once glued my trousers to the side on my camper with the stuff whilst fixing the blue lights back on the ambulance (DO NOT wipe your hands on your cloths if you get any on your fingers then lean on the car for any long period of time) !!! i had to climb out of em and drive home in me boxers
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R.I.P photobucket
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Copey
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,845
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Aug 29, 2011 16:45:32 GMT
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Is that using Tigerseal as a sealant and rivets as the fastener? I'd have a (probably unfounded) fear of the window blowing out if the front windows were open at speed. Thanks for the Knowledge Copey! yeah, sorry, tigerseal as a seal and rivets, just to make sure apparently they arent "needed" but its just a case of better safe than sorry
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Last Edit: Aug 29, 2011 16:47:24 GMT by Copey
1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire GLSi with 2.0 Zetec 1985 Ford Capri 3.0 (was a 2.0 Laser originally)
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Aug 29, 2011 16:54:28 GMT
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Another vote for tiger seal here I once glued my trousers to the side on my camper with the stuff whilst fixing the blue lights back on the ambulance (DO NOT wipe your hands on your cloths if you get any on your fingers then lean on the car for any long period of time) !!! I had to climb out of em and drive home in me boxers Ta Rob, that makes me feel less silly about the time I used Tigerseal to fix a leaky boot (while wearing it) and ended up gluing the boot to my sock, and the sock to my foot
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in
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Sept 7, 2011 16:48:09 GMT
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I've just had a set of windows made for the GTA .The guys recommend sikaflex 295 and no rivets,cheaper than Tigerseal .Formed 4mm ,MSA requirement .I would use rivets + if pulling into shape rather than formed though .
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Last Edit: Sept 7, 2011 16:49:54 GMT by ratmangta
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GavinJ
Club Retro Rides Member
MGB 3.9 v8 Sebring
Posts: 927
Club RR Member Number: 209
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Lexan/Polycarb windowsGavinJ
@gavinj
Club Retro Rides Member 209
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Sept 7, 2011 17:11:13 GMT
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Where did you get those made?
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Sept 7, 2011 17:19:27 GMT
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oops !! Meant to link .You can get the Sikaflex a hell of a lot cheaper on Ebay though .I've just got 2 x 300ml for £20 delivered . www.plastics4performance.comTop quality .They used my existing glass and the copies are exact .Paul or Andy and say Lee with the GTA sent you . They also made me some headlight covers 5mm ,rebated and pencil engraved on the rear to mimic the OE glass Really can't get any better ,very impressed .
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Last Edit: Sept 7, 2011 17:25:08 GMT by ratmangta
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Sept 13, 2011 19:40:56 GMT
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I have 3mm quarters in the original rubbers at the moment, and tbh they are too thin. Very flimsy, and add to the in-car noise. The wobblyer they are, the more lower frequency noise they add (bassy boomyness). There is jolly pain in the backside all weight difference (you're talking grams) between 3,4 and 5mm of that size, I'll go for for if not thicker when time comes to replace them (they scratch easy!). Also, if you're riveting them, then the flimsyness of the 3mm stuff might wave the edges if your rivets aren't close enough together, as tigerseal is very tough and not very squishy in the areas between the rivets. I'm not sure if i'm explaining properly. Do you know what I mean?
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Last Edit: Sept 13, 2011 19:43:04 GMT by lolface
78 Kadett C 2.0 8 valve turbo, holset, rust&other stuff..
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Club Retro Rides Member 231
Posts: 2,716
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Sept 14, 2011 11:25:31 GMT
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Tigerseal and Sikaflex are just polyurethane sealants, i can get Tigerseal for under a fiver at my local bodyshop supplier, Sikaflex is around the £12 mark.
They do the same, buy the cheaper!
Hell, ask for own brand stuff like bodyline or whatever, it'll stick it just as good!
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