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Oct 15, 2013 20:25:49 GMT
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r curse word i've got a slide hammer but i'm in bedfordshire so not very close i'm afraid
i say make one
flat of steel 5/6/8 mm or something to attach to the hub and long bit of bar/threaded bar a big lump of something to be the hammer and then weld a large nut on (my friend had a broken one and i fixed it for him all he had left of his was the hub end and the sliding hammer part)
or rent one/ask a garage to loan you one
matt
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Loving this - your enthusiasm and sense of humour is infectious and I'm a big Capri fan too. Keep up the great work.
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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May 10, 2014 17:34:34 GMT
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Firstly, thanks robgt2 for the comments and to both Paul Y and madmatttcustoms for the pointers. Always helps with motivation! Secondly, apologies for the lack of posts or updates! But don't worry, I've not been sat on my butt doing sod all, I've been gathering parts and getting a few jobs done. Oh and I've moved into a house with a garage. And a shed. Now I can get stuff done when I want, and not when the weather allows! Joy of joys! The new pad is over there somewhere. Not a bad area to live. More importantly, a dry weather-proof garage for one! As I drive this car every day to and from work and with the negative offset I'm running I was starting to realise I couldn't ignore the noisy bearings anymore. Also, I started feeling a bit guilty about the way I'd been going about previous jobs on the car. Everything seemed rushed and I never felt I'd taken time to do things 'properly'. With the aim of taking my time to get the front bearings done whilst keeping the car on the road (it's a daily, remember!) I decided it would be best to buy a spare set of hubs and refurbish those so that I could just do a straight swap for the old ones once they were ready. These were the hubs I got hold of. One nicely greased up, the other less so, and both in need of a tidy up. Perfect! So I set about cleaning them, with the help of Dr. Magic. Used an old nut and a heavy hammer to bash the old studs out, which would eventually be replaced by some longer studs (I wasn't happy with the amount of thread left after fitting the new wheels) Then I attacked them with a drill and brass wire brush. I knew I needed to use brass to knock out the old races, but I couldn't justify the price of brass drifts. Why spend money on a piece of nicely shaped brass that's going to get hammered to hell and back, emerging as a mangled mess? So I bought a cheap brass rod for about £1.60 and used that. See? Did the job really well too. Didn't take too long to get each race out of both hubs. I'd read in a few places around the web that the best way to install new bearing races was to use the old one as a drift, making sure to turn it the opposite way around to the one you're installing so that it doesn't get stuck. To make sure they went in square I placed the flat side of a heavy hammer on top of the old race, then hammered the hammer (take a look at the picture, you'll see what I mean). This method worked really well, and I had all the new races installed in no time! After cleaning them up as much as I could, I gave them both a good coating of Hammerite in a tasty shade of gold. I was struggling to fit the longer wheel studs (just trying to pull them into place by hand with a nut and some washers wasn't working) so I went to see carlb1970 who let me use his fancy air tools. Good excuse for a perv on his motors too! His latest one being particularly cool! Not as cool as the Celica though... nothing is as cool as the Celica. On went the studs! And new discs whilst I was at it! Before I had time to fit the new hubs I had the small matter of celebrating my birthday to attend to. So I took the car and the missus of into the Welsh valleys for a weekend in Llangollen (the drive down there is always fun!) where I consumed lots of this... And whatever this was... Oh and lots of sight seeing too. After the birthday weekend was over, the next task was to finally get the hubs swapped, which I thought would be a simple job. Oh how innocent of me to think so... Everything was seized and required the use of both arms, both legs and plenty of expletives to loosen off. Particularly the bolts holding the calipers in place. The immense feeling of success when these were finally removed almost made me cry with joy... I also had to spend a good time cleaning whatever the hell this forsaken mess was! Everything was caked in the stuff! Eventually the job was done and I had new bearings, discs, hubs and studs! Whilst sorting out the hubs I gathered a few other bits too. Like this cylinder head! It's of the unleaded variety, but not the injection version that has more ponies in it... As mentioned before, my approach with this head is to refurbish it properly, taking any time necessary, before swapping out my old one for the new one, all whilst keeping the car on the road. It's going to need a fair bit of work before I fit it though. As you'll see in the above picture I have snapped studs to deal with, as well as a buggered temp sender... ...and general filth. It's gonna need a lot of help from Dr. Magic this one! But I've already started gathering the bits like a thermostat housing, and a couple of thermostats (one's an 82º and the other is 88º, but I'll probably run the colder one) and some other bits and bobs. I've not done much else to the head aside from clean it a little, but I'll eventually replace the cam and followers, possibly with some parts from Newman. I'm thinking the PH2 from Newman looks good? Seems to have a nice usable powerband for a daily. Anybody have any experience with these cams? Any pointers are appreciated as always! I'm also thinking a little bit of mild DIY porting could be done, so I've grabbed a digital copy of the David Vizard book on tuning a Pinto to see what's best. Again, any advice on mildly porting a Pinto would great! "What are you working on today Mr. Jay?" I hear you asking. Well I'm cleaning up a pair of halfshafts I bought! Once again these will be refurbished with new bearings before I swap out the old ones for these. I'm currently waiting for my drill battery to charge so I can carry on wire-brushing the rust off, but whilst I'm here I thought I'd ask about a few concerns I have... Is this nick/gouge just before the bearing retaining ring ok? I know it's not meant to be there, but will it cause issues? I guess it's there from a previous bearing change using a less than accurate grinder... I'm a little concerned about the extent of this rust on the other shaft, but I guess it'll be alright if I sand it down carefully? And lastly, the rubber seal on the bearings look different to the new ones I've bought. I thought that Atlas axle bearings has one seal that was recessed, and could only be installed one way, like this... But, my new ones have a flat rubber seal on both sides. I take it this just means it doesn't matter which way they're installed? Right, the battery should be all charged up by now. Better get back in that shed!
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Last Edit: May 10, 2014 18:48:29 GMT by jayvoa
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May 11, 2014 13:35:19 GMT
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Just read all your thread! Love what you've done so far bud can't wait to see it when lowered/spaced with the arches bolted on!
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May 11, 2014 23:30:05 GMT
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Good work as always matey... I read you might need a slidehammer? Have one here when you're ready . Catch ya soon
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I'm not curse word, i just fell off my shoes
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Loving the build thread
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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May 18, 2014 12:49:12 GMT
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Cheers guys. Always encouraging! Remember those wheel bearings I just fitted? Well I was a little concerned about the left one, as it didn't turn as freely as I thought it should, but I put this down to the brakes not being settled after refitting everything. Earlier in the week my car started whistling at low speeds, and it seemed to be coming from the front left wheel. Sadly it wasn't whistling a cheery tune, and neither was I... Whipped the wheel and caliper off, then rotated the hub to hear the sound of what seemed like dry rubber on metal. Took the hub off, and was surprised to see the rubber seal had unseated itself and was sticking out of the hub by a few mm. Worrying that it had let some filth in to ruin the new bearings I took it all apart, cleaned it all up, re-greased, and put it all back together. Lo and behold! It turned smoothly and freely, without a sound, and much much better than when it was first fitted. Casting my mind back, the only mistake I think I could have made was leaving the stub axle on the left dry of grease where the rubber seal sits, whereas I vividly remember covering the area on the right side with plenty. Drives well now, and a wobble I had at certain speeds has completely gone too! Result! Thanks (again) to carlb1970 for bringing the sockets I needed when I was mid-way through the job... Need to buy an extra big socket set! Lately I've also had to deal with the carbs slipping out of the mounting rubbers from time to time, mainly due to the mounting lip available on the carbs being so narrow. I wanted to address this by using the original bike carb mounting rubbers, and after a bit of research I realised that the original rubbers have a built in flange and bolt directly to the head, rather than being clamped on to a manifold as I thought they might be. They look something like this: And they don't come cheap! Anywhere from £40-£80! That's more than I paid for the carbs! I'll keep an eye out for somebody breaking a Thundercat YZF600r and see if I can get them cheap. Anyway, to do this I'll need to make a new manifold, with flanges on the ends of each runner so the rubbers can be bolted on. This should make things look neater, easier to work on, and more importantly stop the carbs slipping out of place. If I'm going to make a new manifold I want to carry on in the spirit of "take time, do things right", so I've started to mock up a manifold in 3D, so I can precisely work out the angles needed. One of the failings of my last manifold was not measuring the exact angles and lengths needed, as I just ended up cutting the angles on the fly, checking things by eye and hoping it would all fit together. It did in the end, but it could be improved! This was mid-way through, when it was making my brain hurt... I eventually came up with two possible designs for the runners, but keep in mind that neither have the carb mounting flanges on there yet. Oh and the inlet flange obviously wont be that shape. The first looks more like a typical bike carb manifold, with each runner having a section that's straight on with the carbs. I guess it's usually done this way so that the rubbers often used to mount bike carbs have something to slip on to.
The second is a more simple solution. I thought this would work fine as I'm going to be welding flanges on to the ends and wont need the usual short straight run to slip the rubbers on to. I'll have to check if this option would clear the distributor though.
My question to everybody is, would the bent runners in the 1st design or the straight ones in the 2nd be best for flow? My guess is the straight ones, but I'm not what you would call an expert! I might try mocking up the flanges in 3D tonight if I have the time. No progress on the rear bearings though... really need to get them prepped so I can take them to a friendly mechanic and get the new bearings pressed on.
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Last Edit: May 18, 2014 12:58:52 GMT by jayvoa
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Anybody notice the non-rubbish weather we're having? I cracked on with making the most of it and enjoyed some local roads. (Ignore the saggy wing. I'll sort it...) You know those jobs that aren't that big, and you always say to yourself "I'll get it sorted soon"? Well I'd been driving around with a drivers side window that didn't open for a few months, and it was starting to get embarrassing. Ever tried getting a ticket for a car park whilst trying to bend yourself around a half open door, without falling out? Turns out it was a simple job. The culprit was in here. This thing had popped out of that thing. See? Fiddled around with the winder handle and moved the window by hand until these could be lined up again, squeezed them together with some big pliers, then sprayed every moving part with grease. Literally a 10 minute job, that I'd left for months... Yes! Now I could bear the heat on a long drive down to Retro Mania 2014. Headed down with carlb1970 and met up with a few Retro Riders there. The sun was out, we got burnt, and there was row upon row of glorious retro metal. Here's some nice pictures of cars in the sun... Better stop there before my thread becomes a Retro Mania gallery. I took a few more pics which are on Flickr, so click one of the images above if you want to see more! Oh yeah, then I remembered I hand some halfshafts that needed new bearings. To cut a long story short, if you ever buy Firstline bearings for Atlas axle halfshafts, check the retaining collar fits before doing anything. Mine didn't, after I'd dropped them off with a friendly garage to be pressed on. Eventually sorted the problem, fitted extra long studs and painted them up a little, ready to be fitted on a day off work. However, if you saw my "HELP!" thread in the technical area, you'll know I didn't have a good time on my day off. The halfshafts wouldn't budge. Not with the tools I had anyway. I sulked a lot that day. A few days sulking and I was craving a good run in the car. The Great Orme was calling, so with or without new rear bearings, I went for a drive. A week later and I had another day booked off to swap these halfshafts, this time it was going to get done! I went over to see Dave at Penrhyn Rally Centre, and the job got done in no time! No more droning bearings! Only being able to hear the sounds of the carbs and exhaust, instead of the monotonous sound of worn bearings, put a huge smile on my face. I was in such a good mood that I decided to crack on with some more jobs I'd been meaning to get around to "one day". First was the horn. Didn't work. Cleaned up contacts and earth point, replaced the grotty old spade plug. Job done and me pleased, until I remembered how weak and comedy sounding the standard horn is... Anyway, next job! My side lights weren't working, so I thought I best just replace the lamps with better H4 ones! This knobbly bit needed trimming as it didn't line up. Like so. Then after re-wiring the side lights, it was a simple case of connecting the original plug to the new lamps. Beautiful. I was so pleased that day, with lots of things crossed off the list, even ones I didn't plan on crossing off, until I backed out of the garage to notice a trail of fuel along the floor. This little F&*%£R had decided it didn't want to live anymore, and spurted fuel all over the place. Don't ever use one. Ever. I couldn't find many people saying they've had issues with them, until I found the same item branded as a "Mr. Gasket Fuel Pressure Regulator" in the States. Search Google for it and watch the video that pops up first. Mine was worse. I spent the next few days constantly dismantling the thing, plugging holes in the diaphragm, noticing it leaking again, dismantling, plugging holes, rinse and repeat. This went on for a few days, just so I could get to work. Then one day, something glorious landed on my desk at work... It was promptly fitted, but with no photos due to being in too much of a hurry. My god this thing has made a difference, and I don't just mean after the other regulator sprung a leak. It's idling smoother, driving better, fuel consumption seems to have improved, and more importantly it's not spewing fuel everywhere! Win! Tomorrow I'll be heading off to Prague for a week, where I'll miss my little Capri, but will report back with any foreign retro car spotting from my trip!
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Jun 21, 2014 11:06:53 GMT
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Very nice Capri there mate.
What is that front spoiler?
Cheers
-Hessu-
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Ford Capri Mk3 -79 2.9EFI turbo, summer ride Ford Sierra 4x4 STW aka "GABy", winter ride Kawasaki ZX14 Project 2.9 EFI engine for the Sierra 4x4.
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Jun 21, 2014 14:38:20 GMT
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Very nice Capri there mate. What is that front spoiler? Cheers -Hessu- Thanks Hessu, glad you like it! I like to catch up with your build thread over at Capri Power from time to time. Lots of good work going in to your motor. The spoiler I made myself, which you can see a few pages back. My Capri had a ruined fibreglass RGA style body kit that I didn't like, so I used pieces of that to make it. Turned out nice. I did have a modified Mk1 Golf GTi chin spoiler for a bit, but it never seemed right and everyone seems to be using them.
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Ah, ok.
I might use the same idea as one forum member from Turbosport, and just roll a aluminium version front spoiler, and fasten it with "splitter type" threaded rods.
Yeah, my thread has been a little slow going atm as I have just driven my Capri now, and enjoyed the engine.
What about those front quarter bumpers? Are they real deal, or made from a full bumper? I am not quite sure will i just attack my front bumper, and hack it. Weld the inner bumper ends with round bits and paint them black once more. The original front bumper is in the need of sand blasting anyways. It is surface rust ridden from everywhere.
And, what about those half shaft bearings? Was it just dismantling the rear drums and pulling out half shafts? My Capris rear end is also droning at 80kph and up speeds.
Cheers
-Hessu-
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Last Edit: Jun 22, 2014 6:08:40 GMT by hessu75
Ford Capri Mk3 -79 2.9EFI turbo, summer ride Ford Sierra 4x4 STW aka "GABy", winter ride Kawasaki ZX14 Project 2.9 EFI engine for the Sierra 4x4.
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Ah, ok.
I might use the same idea as one forum member from Turbosport, and just roll a aluminium version front spoiler, and fasten it with "splitter type" threaded rods.
Yeah, my thread has been a little slow going atm as I have just driven my Capri now, and enjoyed the engine.
What about those front quarter bumpers? Are they real deal, or made from a full bumper? I am not quite sure will i just attack my front bumper, and hack it. Weld the inner bumper ends with round bits and paint them black once more. The original front bumper is in the need of sand blasting anyways. It is surface rust ridden from everywhere.
And, what about those half shaft bearings? Was it just dismantling the rear drums and pulling out half shafts? My Capris rear end is also droning at 80kph and up speeds.
Cheers
-Hessu- The quarter bumpers are meant for a Mk2 Escort and made from carbon fiber. They're purely cosmetic though as they're mounted to the front panel and not to bumper irons. There's always a good supply of Escort bumpers with all the rally guys needing them, so if I need a replacement they're always available. With the halfshaft bearings, it was a case of pulling off the rear drum, undoing four bolts that hold the shaft in place, attaching a good slide hammer that can bolt to the hub securely and pull it out with a good amount of force. I actually bought a spare pair of shafts so I could get a garage to fit new bearings to them whilst I kept my car on the road, so I just swapped my old shafts for the ones with new bearings. My advice is to have a very good slide hammer with a hub adapter otherwise you'll struggle to get them out. I didn't have a good enough slide hammer which is why I went to someone who did. You'll be glad to drive a Capri where the only noise is made by the engine!
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Jun 23, 2014 12:19:22 GMT
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Thanks mate.
What is the rear axle oil type? I unfortunately do not have that info yet.
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Ford Capri Mk3 -79 2.9EFI turbo, summer ride Ford Sierra 4x4 STW aka "GABy", winter ride Kawasaki ZX14 Project 2.9 EFI engine for the Sierra 4x4.
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Jun 24, 2014 14:49:03 GMT
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nice capri mate loving the matt black paint
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2003 Golf GT TDI 1985 Mini Mayfair
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Jun 24, 2014 20:28:11 GMT
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Hessu, the diff/axle oil is a debate that I still see going on. As far as I know, EP90 is correct, but I'm not too sure, so don't take my word for it! I've seen many people suggest otherwise.
Rambo, glad you like it! The paint definitely needs redoing soon, but it does the job and looks good from a fair distance, or if you squint up close.
In other news, Prague has a fair amount of classic/retro motors about! The trouble is people drive like maniacs here so I haven't had time to get the camera out and snap any photos... I even saw a nice bronze Mk3 Capri which sounded great. Oh and what I think was a Taunus? A kind of fast-back Cortina? That was immaculate and very cool. All of which make me miss driving my Capri, but nothing a dose of cheap Czech beer won't numb!
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Last Edit: Jun 24, 2014 22:37:28 GMT by jayvoa
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fred
Posted a lot
WTF has happened to all the Vennies?
Posts: 2,957
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Jun 24, 2014 21:03:05 GMT
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Something about a matt black Capri which ups it to evil level. Excellent read so far
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'79 Cossie ran Cortina - Sold
2000 Fozzer 2.0 turbo snow beast
'85 Opel Manta GSI - Sold
03 A class Mercedes
Looking for a FD Ventora - Anyone?
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Jun 25, 2014 17:59:27 GMT
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Prague is a nice city. Been there there too with my missus. One particular "hairy ghost" pub left a mark OK. I will try a local spare parts shop EP type axle diff oil then. What about the diff cover gasket? I have quite good thick carton type gasket, from where I can just cut a desired gasket shape. I´ve used that stuff for my intake manifold and throttle body gasket. What do you think? Matte black/ satin black looks good too imo. And the wheels are spot on too Thanks mate.
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Ford Capri Mk3 -79 2.9EFI turbo, summer ride Ford Sierra 4x4 STW aka "GABy", winter ride Kawasaki ZX14 Project 2.9 EFI engine for the Sierra 4x4.
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Jun 25, 2014 18:16:22 GMT
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Note- firstline stuff is pants IMO , ive bought stuff twice years ago , it was either wrongand very poorly made [ not welded properly ] , or was incomplete leaving me stuck .
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Jul 10, 2014 21:31:22 GMT
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Well, since getting back from Prague I've not had much of a chance to do anything, aside from prepare a few little bits for some bigger jobs I'll be taking on tomorrow. But I'll get to them in a bit. hessu75 I'm not sure about the diff cover gasket as I've not replaced mine yet. It's likely I'll need to soon though so I looked it up and apparently they're really cheap. bobblegut Yeah, I'm learning that Firstline are a bit hit and miss... It seems I've got a diff oil leak as I'm finding oil dripping onto the inside of my rear wheels which has that telltale rancid used diff oil smell. I think this may be the fault of the new bearings. Which brings me on to my tasks for tomorrow! It seems like the diff oil is leaking past the rear bearings, which I've heard can happen if you don't clean up the mating surface inside the axle tube where the bearing sits, or if you use Firstline bearings... So, I used my Google-Fu skills and found out that a few people have had to use a decent smear of trusty Hylomar Blue around the outer face of the bearing to help it seal up properly. I have a tube of Hylomar Blue at the ready, so all I need to do is pull the halfshafts out, clean up the mating surface, smear on the nice blue coloured gel and pop the shafts back in. Wait, didn't I have some major difficulties removing these shafts on my own last time? Oh, yeah... Well, fingers crossed that they'll pull out easier because they've only recently been put in and there's some diff oil working it's way around the bearing to help loosen things up. These things always seem easier when I'm typing them out. Once this is done I'll tackle the job I originally had the day booked off work for, which is to fit new polybushed TCA's and ARB. Keeping up with my current trend of buying spare parts to refurbish and then swap with any old parts I bought a 24mm ARB. This is the thickest one that Capri's left the factory with, which is actually the same thickness as the one already fitted to my Capri, but this is fine because in the near future I'll be trying out the whole double ARB thing, like Copey fitted to his. The ARB I bought was grotty to say the least, and one end looked like this, complete with mangled thread. However, the other end looked like this. Strange, it looks like one side has been machined to be thinner just after the thread. Or so I thought... After a little scraping, it appeared that the original sleeve had united with the bar with lots and lots of rust and it couldn't be persuaded to move. So with no blow torch to hand, out came the hacksaw! Stubborn little curse word... Then I was free to slide the old rubber bushes off. With a little bit of WD40 this was pretty easy to do, even around the tight bends. Cleaned up the bar and painted it with some gold Hammerite. I love gooooold! New TCA's (which have been sat in their box doing nothing for a very long time!) came with rubber bushes already fitted, so with a screwdriver, little hacksaw and a generous amount of effort they came out. Ready for these to be put in tomorrow! I have new polybushes for the ARB too, which should be easy to put on the bar as they have a split in them to help with fitting. I'm just hoping I've done enough research into the job so it goes smoothly. I know this was a slightly boring update, so fingers crossed I'll have a more interesting (and positive!) update after tomorrows jobs.
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Jul 16, 2014 11:42:37 GMT
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Gooold!
The thexture, the fheel ov it. Yesh, yesh!
looking´ good mate. Like little bits refusrbishing. Spot on there.
Cheers
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Ford Capri Mk3 -79 2.9EFI turbo, summer ride Ford Sierra 4x4 STW aka "GABy", winter ride Kawasaki ZX14 Project 2.9 EFI engine for the Sierra 4x4.
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