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yeah man i get ya. if i ever go carbs i think i'd tig my manifold up your chemical metal could be like err porous?? dunno
just abit worried mate (fire extinguisher inside the car?)
hopefully the bolts will tighten up
thought about a new gasket? or a double gasket
also could the flange of got warped/distorted during the welding?
i'm just throwing out ideas mate as i've been welding for a long time and problems do come up now and then but there should be a way around it
matt
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Thanks for the pointers Matt, really appreciate any help I get on this forum. You've probably guessed by now I'm very much a novice with this stuff! I've known people to use chemical metal to seal up welds on intake manifolds and they've had no problems, but like you say it could actually be porous so might cause problems. I'll keep that in mind when making checks. The leak definitely wasn't there when I first fitted the carbs, but seems to have developed after I've had the manifold off since. Hopefully this means it isn't warped. I was careful to bolt down the flange when welding, and skipped from one point to another to let the welds cool, but still it's my first bit of welding so I may not have done things right. I think the gasket seems quite poor so I'll definitely order a new one, making sure it's a decent brand and not some no-name rubbish like I have on there now. I'll definitely be investing in a fire extinguisher too! I've heard far too many horror stories, many of which involving a Capri! The leak isn't at all big but better safe than sorry and all that! I guess Halfords would sell them? I've been for a drive this morning and haven't been able to find the leak afterwards, but decided to check something I hadn't looked at yet. In the photo below is one of the mig welding tips I've used for the vacuum take off on each runner. I noticed a couple of them had become loose, and on inspection were soaked in fuel. Untitled by Victory Over All, on Flickr It probably doesn't help that I've mounted these on the underside of the runners, and in hindsight I should have mounted them along the top so they're less likely to collect fuel and leak. It's obvious fuel was getting past these, so I've wrapped them all with some PTFE that's good with fuel contact (at least that's what my old man told me) together with a small amount of hylomar blue. This should hopefully keep them sealed and stop them working loose again. I'll be heading out for another drive to Halfords and possibly B&Q to look for an extinguisher, so I'll check for leaks again after the drive. Fingers crossed this simple fix has sorted it!
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Sept 1, 2013 20:52:30 GMT
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thats ok like i saying just throwing ideas out and yeah safety wise i'd get a fire extinguisher not just because its a capri but more the carbs could flood and leak then light so it would go from nothing to on fire pretty quick and i think the sooner u put it out the more car would be left. hopefully the new gasket and sealing up anything else will get it sorted and then you can get onto something else. whats next after the carbs? i still ain't had time to work on my capri i'm in the middle of building a barn/workshop/car port down the side of my house where my capri is currently so i can work on it through the rain and this winter its hard to not work on it tho but i've got my frame work made and the roofing sheets ready to go (there left over sheets from the roof of the sheet metal shop i work at so its guna look like a mini warehouse as i wanna use the roofing sheets as the walls too) matt
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Sept 2, 2013 18:52:35 GMT
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Cheers Matt. I'm not looking forward to doing jobs in the winter... The first winter I spent working on this car was a nightmare! I had a pair of gazebos on the drive to try and shelter me and the car, but they were useless. A car port would be very handy! In terms of plans after the carbs, well I'll soon be buying the other pair of Minilites to go with the two I have already, then fitting the 'JDM' bolt on arches (Ranger Bob specials, they're ace!), finally fitting my lowering springs and polybushed TCA's and respraying it proper matte black (it's currently looking flat, satin and glossy in various areas!) with gloss black accents like the arches and bumpers. I've got a fair bit of welding that needs doing to the body too, but I really want to tackle that myself and need a LOT of practice before I do it. I can't find any sign of the leak today... but it seems like it could be a very slight air leak on the manifold, as I've noticed that from time to time there's a noticeable 'POP' from the exhaust on idle. I think the leak may be on the underside of the manifold, and I guess that would explain why I can only find fuel after the engine has stopped as the leak is sucking air in whilst running. I'll try spraying carb cleaner around the areas that I think might be cause and see if that helps narrow down where it could be. I've also bought a decent 1kg fire extinguisher, one that can deal with electrical and fuel fires. I pray to the automotive gods that I'll never have to use the thing... IMG_20130901_100936 by Victory Over All, on Flickr
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Last Edit: Sept 2, 2013 23:10:59 GMT by jayvoa
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stop being a tease Jay... we need to see pics of the wheels fitted just a thought to help see where the leak is... and its a messy one, how about if you covered the area with a dusting of talc or some other white powder ( not that ) then the area where the leak is should stand out.
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I'm not curse word, i just fell off my shoes
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Sept 3, 2013 12:55:06 GMT
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Don't worry Carl, I'll try the wheels out soon and take lots of photos, just got to sort out all the other little problems first...
Talc sounds like a good idea. I know roughly where it's coming from so I wouldn't have to dust everything. I've been rubbing my finger along different areas of the manifold and giving it a good smell (stop giggling!) and I think it's possibly coming from the underside of one runner. Now I need to buy some talc and a small mirror!
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Sept 5, 2013 13:42:29 GMT
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let me know if you need any help with the welding side of things or want some tips/advice and i'm glad you got the fire extinguisher its good to have one in the car when using a different fuel setup etc and also can have it to hand when you are welding too and yeah i've been hospital and had loads of injections in my shoulder joint but once thats worn off i'm guna finish the car port and chuck the roof on over the capri so i can sit and weld in the evenings and just fit some strip lights/bulbs out there so no more getting rained off jobs i know your quite far away but you could always road trip to mine/sort me some petrol money and i can help out with the welding i need to get back on track with my capri resto all the best
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Sept 6, 2013 21:19:34 GMT
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Cheers for the offer Matt I'll know who to speak to if my welding doesn't go to plan! I am determined to do as much of the work on this car myself, and really want to do my own welding. Looking forward to seeing more progress on your Capri (as well as the car port!). It's always inspiring to see what other people are doing with theirs, and there's so many interesting and unique Capri's around now. Hope the shoulder is sorted soon! In other news, I've altered my throttle return spring setup because it was catching on the choke mechanism which meant the choke was sometimes stuck open. It's simple and involves a cable tie, but I have no photo of it yet because of the curse word rain. Pedal now feels better, returns well and choke works fully. Still no progress on the air/fuel leak on the manifold however. I can't locate it as it seems to have disappeared, but when there's some better weather I'll whip the manifold off and take a proper look. I've got a feeling it's a weld that needs sealing.
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Sept 14, 2013 14:03:54 GMT
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Love this build mate! I built my old capri a few years ago on a strict budget too. Spec was home built 2.1 using 2.8 V6 pistons, Vulcan full race head, HT1 camshaft, twin 45 webers etc etc. got almost 180bhp out of her and she ran 14.0 at the pod too! Here is a pic if you are interested,
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Sept 15, 2013 15:01:03 GMT
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Cheers SmokeEm! Glad you're liking it. It's a bit tricky building the exact car you want on a tight budget, whilst also using it as a daily commuter. You have to do silly things like buy only two wheels at a time and wait a long while to buy the second pair Your old one looks sweet, and sounds like a good strong engine build too. I'm still contemplating how far I should take the Pinto in mine, as I can see it being my daily for a long time. I need to finely tune the fun/economic balance! Maybe an unleaded head and uprated cam... we'll see! I've managed to sort out a couple of little jobs lately, the first being fixing the dodgy side light. Turns out that all I had to do was replace this (yes my rad cowl is a mess): IMG_20130902_200716 by Victory Over All, on Flickr I knew I had a spare one knocking around somewhere, and I wanted to check the simple things first before chasing wires and getting confused. Anyway, side light now works! IMG_20130902_200741 by Victory Over All, on Flickr I also decided to see if the bitchin' rimz actually fitted. Behold the awesomeness, with a large helping of reverse rake! IMG_20130914_191700 by Victory Over All, on Flickr Yes, the front spring hadn't settled, but it definitely still needs a good lowering. I'll get the front sorted first before I tackle the rears. IMG_20130914_191717 by Victory Over All, on Flickr The fitment is good! IMG_20130914_191737 by Victory Over All, on Flickr Although I do want to space them out a little. IMG_20130914_191758 by Victory Over All, on Flickr Which means I'll be needing arches! IMG_20130914_193118 by Victory Over All, on Flickr I've got a bit of room to fill (25mm I reckon), but I'm not too concerned about being "flush". 19mm spacers might do the job. IMG_20130914_193338 by Victory Over All, on Flickr I'm really happy with the overall look, but lows are desperately needed. IMG_20130914_193222 by Victory Over All, on Flickr IMG_20130914_193413 by Victory Over All, on Flickr With a bit of Photoshop wizardry, this is how things could look... IMG_20130914_193413 Edit by Victory Over All, on Flickr Old wheels are back on for now, and I'll be ordering the second pair of Minilites after payday. I may look at getting the thing lower before the new wheels and arches are permanently on though.
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Sept 15, 2013 15:51:05 GMT
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looking good mate and yes lows first then spacers. 2" blocks and build your own coilovers/or just some 2" front drop springs so you'll get your lows without arches then fit the arches when you get the spacers perhaps managed to get my frame up today for my barn got a mate to help me and he said i've never seen someone build a garage around a car lol i should have some capri shaped updates soon
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Sept 16, 2013 10:55:16 GMT
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wheels look amazing jay, good choice matey
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I'm not curse word, i just fell off my shoes
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Sept 16, 2013 19:31:49 GMT
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I was actually gonna text you in a bit Carl to let you know I had pics of the wheels. I'm chuffed with them As Matt says though, I need to get a little lower before I get the wheels and arches fitted... So, Carl, you think it's time for Round 2 against the Castle Nuts From Hell? I've got shiny new bits to replace them this time (tie rod ends, polybushed TCA's, all with nyloc nuts) so we can get as forceful as needs be. And hopefully when we finish we won't be able to fit that massive Amstrad phone under the car. Maybe we can rope Rob in to help, seeing as he's done it before... Let me know if you've ever got time and fancy a crack at it. God knows I'd cock it up on my own, plus it's too wet to work on my drive now
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Oct 11, 2013 17:39:23 GMT
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Remember I had that mysterious fuel leak? Well I got that sorted, with the help of a rubbish LED desk lamp I was going to get rid of. Just so happens it fits snug in one end of the manifold. IMG_20130922_163051 by Victory Over All, on Flickr I closed all curtains and switched off all lights, then pushed the light inside the manifold. In the photo below you'll see I left the other end open, but I blocked it off so I could hopefully see light shining through wherever there may be a leak. IMG_20130922_163140 by Victory Over All, on Flickr Turns out there was a tiny leak in the area I'd narrowed it down to. I could see the most tiny little light peaking through a minuscule pin hole in one of the welds (tried taking a photo but it was too tiny to see). I quickly cleaned paint off the area, plugged the hole and repainted it. Done! My only problem now is the curse word inlet gasket has pretty much disintegrated within a couple of months... my fault for buying no-name cheap curse word. I've just received a Fel-Pro one to replace it though. Oh and guess what else turned up in the post? Another pair of sweet 15x8 ET-12 RMD Minilites! IMG_20130929_145440 by Victory Over All, on Flickr Then carlb1970 gave me a pair of part worn 195/50's to help me finally get these wheels on! (oh and look, my fibreglass wings have sagged near the door... needs sorting) IMG_20131005_174925 by Victory Over All, on Flickr These wheels sit just about inline with the arch lip. I think that's "HeckaFlush", right guys? That's cool right? IMG_20131005_174939 by Victory Over All, on Flickr Today I've fitted another pair of new Nankang NS2 205/50's on the front though, as I wanted new tyres on all round. I think this is the first time I'll own a car that's had a whole matching set of tyres. How sad... However, it's not all good news! With these wheels being a far lower offset I think they've highlighted a possible problem with the rear wheel bearings. When I'm cruising at 65/70mph I can hear a droning "whooor whooor whooor" sound coming from the rear and when coming to a very slow stop, with or without brakes, I sometimes get a very loud deep metallic groaning noise (hey I don't know how else to describe these sounds!) which I can only guess points to worn bearings which now have a little more strain on them due to the low offset. "Swapping wheel bearings? Can't be that difficult!" I thought... turns out that to change the rears I'll need to take out the half shafts, which seems like a far bigger job than I was expecting. Great. Oh and when pulling up to my driveway after getting my new tyres fitted I heard a loud grinding sound from one of the front brakes, so that's either a small stone or I need new pads (probably the latter). Always keeps you busy does a retro!
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Last Edit: Oct 11, 2013 17:39:43 GMT by jayvoa
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Oct 12, 2013 13:56:09 GMT
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Wheels are looking really good sorry to hear about the new problems id whip the wheels off and check the pads/noise as it might me clearance issue perhaps. And as for rear wheel bearings it sounds pretty involved but would be better to get it sorted early. Dam pin hole in the weld at least you've found it to fix it/weld it up Matt
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Good job finding the leak matey:) New wheels are sexeh, love how this is coming along , can't wait to see with the lows and arches , catch up soon matey
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I'm not curse word, i just fell off my shoes
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Oct 14, 2013 22:48:18 GMT
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Cheers guys! I managed to get the new brake pads fitted with little fuss (apart from everything being covered in filth and being a little seized up). I heard Mintex were a good brand to go for, and just so happens to be what my local motor factors stock. Here's a photo of the box, because updates with no photos are rubbish. IMG_20131014_112255 by Victory Over All, on Flickr Good thing I changed them too! The old pads had bits crumbling off, and had started to mark one of the discs. So that must have been causing the scraping sound. Right? Went for a good test run, got up to speed, hit the brakes and... scraping sound still there. Got back, had a good look around the wheels and arches and noticed a little bit of paint missing from a small patch on the inside of the arch lip. Well it seems so bloody obvious now doesn't it? When I fitted the wheels with the part-worns donated by Carl, I had plenty of room and no rubbing on tight corners or under harsh braking, but they were 195's, and my new tyres are 205's. Balls. Barely any difference in arch gap looking at it by eye, but it's enough to cause a little rubbing. I'll see if I can cut out the small bit that's making contact (which is luckily out of sight) without leaving any sharp edges. I've also decided that before I space the rear wheels out any further and get my arches on I want to make sure my bearings are up so scratch. I've tried searching for some how-to's, and most are fairly vague, with no photos or videos for guidance, but I have spotted a "non-specialist tool cheapskate technique". This involves smashing the old bearings off violently and fitting the new ones by using some scaffold pipe that the half shaft can fit inside, then using the whole lot as a makeshift slide hammer. Sounds fun! Now considering this is my daily, I'm wondering whether I should buy some second hand half shafts so I can fit new bearings to them whilst not taking the car off the road, then quickly swapping the half shafts. Anybody got cheap 52" Atlas half shafts lying around?!
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Changing the wheel bearings on an atlas axle is easy, provided you have the right tools!
In a nutshell:-
1. Jack car up at rear and use axle stands to support.
2. Remove wheels and rear drums..
3 There are 4 17mm (from memory) bolts holding the half shaft to the axle casing accessed through a hole in the drive shaft flange. Turn the drive shaft to line up with the 4 bolts.
4. Hire or borrow a slide hammer and use to remove the half shaft. Be careful as once the bearing is free of the tube the back plate may drop down ( the bit with the rear shoes attached) stoping the shaft from coming out. Don't think that the bearing is still in the tube and continue to use the slide hammer as you will damage the brakes.
5. Don't be tempted to use the drum as a puller as you could end up damaging it!
6. Now, you could chisel the lock ring off and spend a few hours cursing or... Take the axles to someone with a hydraulic press and get them take off and put on the bearings. Probably best to ask around before disabling your car!
7. To instal reverse the above!
Nice car, used to work on them when they were new!
Hope that helps.
P.
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Last Edit: Jan 6, 2014 23:48:12 GMT by Paul Y
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jayvoa
Part of things
Posts: 229
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Oct 15, 2013 19:12:44 GMT
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Thanks Paul! That's a great help, and a much clearer explanation of what I've read elsewhere! I'll ask where I usually go for my MOT, see if they'll be able to remove and fit bearings. I'm sure they would as they seem to always be working on retros and classics. I'm not sure I know anyone with a hub puller/slide hammer though, but I'll ask around. Just had a look at prices for one, including the hub adapter, just incase it was affordable... Not cheap!
Hopefully I'll be able to find time to get these done before winter fully sets in.
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Oct 15, 2013 20:15:08 GMT
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Try HSS or a local hire place for a slide hammer, you might find for the price of a drink your local MOT place can help you out.
I have one but think the 260+ miles might make you borrowing it a slight issue....
If you can find a scrap drum then use that. Best method is to put the drum onto the half shaft the wrong way round ie the drum does not cover the shoes. Then put two wheel nuts onto opposing studs so that the thread is just poking through the nut. Put the nuts on the 'wrong way round' so that the flat of the nut is closest to the drum.
This should then give you enough space between the flange and the wheel nuts to use the drum as an improvised slide hammer to pull the shaft out.
Again. Don't use your drums!!!!. You might be lucky and get away with it but it is an easy way to distort the drum and cause vibration etc which is what you are trying to fix!
Good luck with the repair, it should only take you an hour, tops to do both sides taking out travel time to your favourite press shop.
P.
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