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Aug 15, 2011 20:01:48 GMT
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Hi Now I'm pritty sure that you will all say that bleeding brakes is easy as but ive always had problems doing it....... Ive have to replace the passanger rear brake cyclinder as its decided to die on the e21, the last time I bled brakes was on my old mk1 golf, me and a mate who is pritty handy with a spanner (I'm not bad either lol) yet we just couldnt get it right! Whats the best way for you guys and, if you use one, the best kit (without going mental on price!) That is all  Arron |
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Last Edit: Aug 15, 2011 20:02:37 GMT by lownslow
Jesus is my airbag!
Maximim sig pic height: 80px
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Aug 15, 2011 20:05:13 GMT
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My experiences of the 'Eezibleed' kit have been really good. Just remember that the stated 20+psi required is rubbish.. That's far too much pressure and blows the seal on the bottle. I seem to remember about 10-12psi working better
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring. |
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Aug 15, 2011 20:40:44 GMT
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I made my own pressure bleeding kit for the princely sum of about £7 out of a garden sprayer and various pipes and fittings.  If you can get hold of a brake fluid reservoir lid for your car then it makes it even easier - I had to make one out of an Oxo tub lid and an oversized bath plug! ;D  It saved endless amounts of pumping the brake pedal to bleed the brakes of the Bond - a few pumps of the lever to pressurise the sprayer, open the desired nipple and pull the trigger of the sprayer...  |
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Last Edit: Aug 15, 2011 20:41:55 GMT by BenzBoy
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Aug 15, 2011 20:43:25 GMT
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I use a plastic pot with a bit of hose. Very low tech, but works.
I'd like a pressurised bleeding kit though, a 1 man job that doesnt require a car tyre for pressure would be ace.
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Aug 15, 2011 20:51:20 GMT
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I use and eezibleed kit, had it years and it always does the job, never been caught short without a spare rim, as above you do not need a lot of pressure to do the job. The refilling as you bleed is a handy function too, just have a syringe handy to take the level back down once your done.
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate |
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Aug 15, 2011 22:49:03 GMT
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I've got one of those Gunson tubes with a valve and tub on the end...works a treat.
Remember to place it higher than e caliper.
Also I was always told to bleed from the furthest wheel in - don't it's plums! Go from the wheel nearest the m/c progressively outwards.
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Koos
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mdh, i disagree. You should start from furthest away from the m/c and work forward. Otherwise you risk pushing air bubbles towards area you have already bled.
Remember your bleed nipple always needs to be uppermost. So if you have an odd or custom setup that uses a bottom bleed nipple you will need to remove the caliper and spin it 180 before you bleed. (air bubbles rise, so the nipple always needs to be top)
I'm oldschool with bleeding. Grab a friend and get them on the pedal. Open - Down - Close - Up technique.
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Get some hose clamp pliers, one less than the number of flexies you have. Clamp flexies. Bleed the unclamped corner. Now clamp it up, and bleed the now-unclamped one. Repeat till done.
(Bleeding in the trad way, pedal & undo bleed nip etc)
An old-timer on another forum mentioned this. Only used it once, but was all done with a rock-hard pedal in under half an hour and with less than a litre of fluid used, on a 'dry' system with new master, hoses etc.
Did this one-man, courtesy of one of those tubes with a one-way valve.
However if you've got an ABS pump I've no idea if it would work or what changes might be needed etc...
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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Aug 16, 2011 10:16:36 GMT
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does it have integrated or separate pressure limiter/load compesators?
have experienced difficultuies in bleedign brakes when these are seized if they're separate items.
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Aug 16, 2011 10:46:04 GMT
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Am I the only person, who's successfully bled brakes with ONLY a bit of plain pipe, and a coke bottle? Fit the pipe, wedge it into the bottle, pour a tiny amount of fluid into the coke bottle, to cover the bottom of the pipe, slightly crack open the nipple, and pump the brakes, topping up the resevoir when needed. You just need to make sure you've got a spanner already fitted to the nipple, to quickly close it off, in case the fluid drains. Basically, once you've filled the bleed pipe with fluid, it's airtight, and makes its' own one-way valve. But sometimes, it un-wedges itself, losing that seal. Hence the need to be quick I bought an ezi-bleed kit, and it's only ever been of use on the clutch on my scimitar, everything else I tried it on, it just leaked everywhere. And this: Is INSPIRED! I resorted to blowing down the pipe with my mouth to not blow the seals  |
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Last Edit: Aug 16, 2011 10:48:34 GMT by chairchild
You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Aug 16, 2011 13:18:46 GMT
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Easybleed here as well, i've blown more old master cylinders using the pump the pedal than I care to remember, when you use the PTP method the seals in the master go way past thier usual travel and any wear ridges will nip off the tips of the seals, had it happen loads and loads of times but then in a garage I probably bleed more brakes than most ? Mk6 transits are terrable for it on the clutch master so I allways EB those as well, don't get any leaks but then I fit the caps properlt and only use 10 PSi in the tyre, I did once use a 40PSi transit wheel and the leak from the cap seal made it accross the road ! a good 20Ft jet lol As to where to start IME it make abosolutly no differance I just do what ever order I fancy at the time usually dependant and what wheel is off when I start, not that i'm an expert but I do bleed at least 3 cars a week usually more, abosolutly couldn't be without my easybleed kits (i have 3 so allways got a differant cap fitting to hand without swapping about). If you have a rear load limiting valve allways wedge it open helps no end, either pop the spring off or wedge the arm open with a screwdriver |
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Last Edit: Aug 16, 2011 13:20:24 GMT by bortaf
R.I.P photobucket
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Aug 16, 2011 22:23:39 GMT
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mdh, I disagree. You should start from furthest away from the m/c and work forward. Otherwise you risk pushing air bubbles towards area you I'm oldschool with bleeding. Grab a friend and get them on the pedal. Open - Down - Close - Up technique. yup that's what I was taught but it's rubbish!  Have a go my way next time and you'll see what I mean. It's logical you're pushing air away from the mc so you want to start with the closest. I did my Disco from bone dry a couple of weekends ago and it worked a treat, the pedal is rock hard and it took half as much time as doing it furthest first. |
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Koos
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Aug 17, 2011 11:12:16 GMT
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I just use a long length of clear pipe! Stick it on the nipple & suck! You get plenty of warning (can see it coming, complete with bubbles)& make sure the end of the tube is higher than the m/cylinder. The level will equalise with the m/cylinder level -and shut the nipple at your leisure. Pinch the end of the pipe 7 tip back into the bottle -if its not old/manky.
If its being ''difficult'' tape the tube up high - to the wall, a tree, whatever, & pump the pedal slowly. It'll sort itself out pretty quick if there are no other probs in the system.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Aug 17, 2011 11:59:10 GMT
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mdh, I disagree. You should start from furthest away from the m/c and work forward. Otherwise you risk pushing air bubbles towards area you I'm oldschool with bleeding. Grab a friend and get them on the pedal. Open - Down - Close - Up technique. yup that's what I was taught but it's rubbish! Have a go my way next time and you'll see what I mean. It's logical you're pushing air away from the mc so you want to start with the closest. I did my Disco from bone dry a couple of weekends ago and it worked a treat, the pedal is rock hard and it took half as much time as doing it furthest first. With a single line system you need to do closest first BUT with duel line systems it makes no differance at all where you start cos furthest, closest or middle distance away they are all on seperate lines all isolated from each other, only when you have 2 bleed points on a single line do you need to start closest first other wise it makes no differance at all as long as the master level never falls below the inlet to the lines they don't know how far away from the master they are. |
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R.I.P photobucket
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Sound like eazybleed is the way forward! So any of you remove your wheels to do this as my mk1 golf was a pig to get to the nipples?
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Jesus is my airbag!
Maximim sig pic height: 80px
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Aug 19, 2011 12:00:49 GMT
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Jam jar with a lid. Drill two holes in it. Push two vacuum tubes into it. Connect one to the bleed nipple, one to the engine intake manifold. Start engine and crack the bleed nipple and it'll vacuum bleed - and I find this is better at sucking up/out air bubbles than pressure from the top is at blowing them out, and can't pop the plastic reservoir off the top of the master cylinder either. A dab of grease around the threads of the bleed nipple prevents air getting sucked in there and confusing you by looking like you're sucking air out the brakes but actually sucking air between bleed nipple and the caliper from the outside instead. Costs all of nothing to make too.
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--
Marko
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Aug 19, 2011 13:14:01 GMT
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i've used an eezibleed kit twice and would NEVER use one again. both times, the cap has come off spilling brake fluid everywhere (even at 10psi). Pipe/jar/helper - sometimes the old ways are the best ways.
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Aug 21, 2011 19:50:58 GMT
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I've used eezibleed a few times and won't again.
The caps never fit so pee fluid everywhere, or pop off and pee fluid everywhere, or the pipes pop off and pee....
You get the idea!
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Koos
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Aug 22, 2011 19:55:34 GMT
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i used a one man bleed kit from halfords, was like £4 or something or other. was the simpliest thing ive done, mind u this is on 2 pot mini brakes >_< bearing in mind i havent bled brakes before, whats with all the pressures and spare wheels and stuff like this?
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Nobody dies a virgin, because lifes curse word us ALL
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rob0r
East of England
Posts: 2,743
Club RR Member Number: 104
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Aug 23, 2011 13:21:29 GMT
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My E21 loves an Eazibleed, as do the rest of my BMWs. When I found out about them it was a revelation... one person perfect bleeding FTW.
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E30 320i 3.5 - E23 730 - E3 3.0si - E21 316 M42 - E32 750i
ETC
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