Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Aug 11, 2011 17:27:57 GMT
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Okay, well, seeing as the original issue in the Range Rover thread was sorted out, and people were reading, but not replying, i decided to create a new thread dedicated to the NEW issue that i've encountered.
I *STILL* can't get it to run, i've just about given up on it. Set the static timing AGAIN (this time to TDC), and i wish there was a straight bloody answer, i can't get a single value in all my searching. Some say 6' BTDC, some say 8' (on a pulley that goes 0/3/6/9/12...).
Can get it to start with some throttle, and you can give it some welly, and it fires on all 8 cylinders, no backfiring but it will *NOT* idle. Please see the video here for details:
I'm nearly at the end of my rope with all this! >_<
Can anyone please help?
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Mr S
Posted a lot
10-4 Good buddy.
Posts: 2,654
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Aug 11, 2011 18:01:58 GMT
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That doesn't look like a genuine LR dizzy cap - change that before anything else. Mine had no end of problems when I didn't have a genuine one...!
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Suzuki GSXR1000 K2
BMW R1150GS
BMW K1200RS
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Aug 11, 2011 20:36:12 GMT
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^ what he said! Rover ignition is curse word and needs to be in good nick to work even half way properly. Get genuine stuff not pattern stuff unless you want to replace it every 6 weeks. Either 6 or 8 degrees should run and shouldn't affect the idle. Unplug the afm - it will run without on a default map, but a dodgy afm will mess it up. Do you have a little black box on the side of the dizzy? Pull it off and check/clean all the connectors. Check for air leaks. Report back once you've done that  |
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Koos
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Aug 11, 2011 20:38:45 GMT
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Oh and bear in mind that some v8s had incorrectly marked pulleys so check tdc with a pencil down the plug hole.
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Koos
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Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Aug 11, 2011 20:46:55 GMT
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The little black box is the spark amplifier - thats all new, as are the electronic gubbins under the rotor arm. I set the crank to 8' BTDC and 6' BTDC before, with the rotor arm at #1 cylinder beforehand and it didn't like it much. Is there no standard setting for these? Will try unplugging the AFM though. Is there an Idle Speed control valve on these? And what's the default setting for the idle screw on the throttle body?  I wonder if the guy has his old dizzy cap hanging around...i presume even if it's a bit curse word on the contacts, it'll be better than a pattern one? *edit* TDC on the crank pulley correlated with the movement of the piston - we checked with a screwdriver in the hole, TDC on piston = TDC mark on crank. |
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Last Edit: Aug 11, 2011 20:47:53 GMT by Kai
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Aug 11, 2011 22:11:01 GMT
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at what rpm does it eventually die? Is it less than 1000rpm? Or do you have to use the throttle to keep it at a sensible idle? If the latter, have you tried just adjusting the idle screw higher?
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You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
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Aug 11, 2011 22:56:47 GMT
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Iirc the idle valve is under the rear of the plenum on the drivers side.
They do stick so whip it off and scrub it up.
Mine used to run 6 degrees advance the 12 when it was running lpg.
If nothing works there's a lot of knowledge on orrp.info, bu you need to be quite thick skinned to go there!
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Koos
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Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Sorry its taken so long to reply, hospital trip caused recent absence!
the Idle valve was given a soak in petrol and was freed up, but the timing still i just can't get right. I have a funny feeling it's actually the distributor that's the issue - the ignition module on the side works, but i have to joggle the wires to the coil sometimes - and i'm not sure about the points curse word on the inside of the dizzy. It's a 35DLM8 iirc.
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Rover V8 won't idle at all10mpg
@10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member 204
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Nov 17, 2011 12:51:20 GMT
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there's no points on a DLM8, in fact hat's the best stock dizzy rover ever used, there was a mod detailed on the V8OC years ago that showed how to substitute a Renault part that gave you a spark like a mallory or similar cost about £15 and worked very well...
Try resetting the gap on the pickup, don't use a steel feeler guage) iirc a piece of cereal packet works perfectly!
if the ICV was jammed up replace it, if they stick they often burn out, don't buy a pattern one they are often junk..
AFM are easy enough to check out depending on whether you have flapper or hotwire
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The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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Nov 17, 2011 20:44:36 GMT
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and change the engine management temp sensor my dads classic wouldnt tick over and that was the problem after changing all the stuff you have and more it was that
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97 volvo 940 turbo wagon
87 fiat strada abarth
78 gs1000
82 katana 1100
84 gsx1100 efe
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