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Hirst
Posted a lot
This avatar is inaccurate, I've never shaved that closely
Posts: 3,930
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I've also heard tell of people who could not insure a car which has been total-loss on the register. Not sure if that's because insurers don't want to pay on the same car twice or regard it as a greater risk for a higher level of injury etc. due to extensive repairs. As you say, unless you know the story why a car is Cat B its hard to say if its worth bothering with or not. I wish we didn't operate the Cat A/B/C/D system to be honest, as I think it lures people into a false sense of security/fear - there's some real deathtraps out there which are unrecorded damage (look on eBay!). On the other hand, I've seen some low value stuff which has been given Cat C status for the sake of needing a set of locks after a botched theft attempt, therefore requiring the whole "substantially repaired, vehicle identity checked" stuff on the logbook and making it difficult to resale for the rest of its life. Bit silly really.
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Yes it is. Cool colour too; just needs some wheels.
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" East bound and down, loaded up and truckin' "
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30psi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,024
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It's been for sale for over a year, always without an MOT, does the MOT database flag up write-off when they put the Reg in? No it doesn't. However has it been through the VIC? so it cannot go back on the road. It can. but surely if someone bought it to put back on the road but couldnt because of that and the seller didnt tell them it was a CAT B then the seller is the one in trouble??? thought that was the case. Thought you had to legally say if it was written off and cant be put back on the road. A trader is obliged to inform the customer of the Cat B marker, but a private individual doesn't have to as they're not caught by trading standards. Chances are the CROWN has been incorrectly classified as a Cat B. Their is a code of practice, but if the engineer isn't following it then it doesn't help much. An engineer should only Cat A or B a car if he thinks if the car shouldn't or couldn't be repaired. i.e. if it's the shape of a banana, burnt out or flooded. A Cat A is so buggered that it has no value (code says less than £50). Cat B for other cases where the engineer thinks the car is unrepairable. Problem is this is all down to opinion. One engineers idea of what can physically be repaired will be different to someone else. A Cat C is economic only. A 30 year old car with a Cat C marker can be very different damage to a 2011 Focus with a Cat C. The VIC scheme allows for Cat A's, B's and C's. These cars can be returned to the road. Obviously you really need to thoroughly check the car though. As Cat C and D are economic, the damage can be very light on an old car. Problem is the info on the net about the types of markers is wrong and quite misleading, with different versions floating about and some referring to Cat F's and X's which don't even exist. This along with scaremongering means people perception of a Cat D for example is one that is alot worse than it actually needs to be.
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1962 Ford Thunderbird 6.4L
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS CA18DET
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS SR20DE
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^^^ This x10. I'm amazed nobody has bought that Mazda - is it still for sale? Its a honey and its way rarer than this CROWN is.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Hirst
Posted a lot
This avatar is inaccurate, I've never shaved that closely
Posts: 3,930
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Edit: I'm talking nonsense, forget it! Move along the bus.
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Last Edit: Aug 6, 2011 18:46:41 GMT by Hirst
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Oh yeah, just a point about MOT and VIC - you don't have to do it in any particular order. Like 30psi says, there isn't any marker on the MOT system or anything. However, you can legally drive a car to/from the pre-booked VIC without MOT, so you might as well take care of that first. Otherwise your MOT ticket is ticking away on a vehicle you can't tax until it has been checked and the logbook sorted out. Are you sure?? I was looking into this recently and it's spelt out pretty clearly: When you take your car for a VIC the following must apply:
* repairs must be conducted and the car must be roadworthy and capable of being driven under its own power * if it's over three years old, the car must be covered by a valid MOT * if it's being driven to the VIC the person driving the car must be insuredwww.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/BuyingAndSellingAVehicle/AdviceOnBuyingAndSellingAVehicle/DG_4022107Just thought I'd better point that out. It also says it on the paperwork I have here too...
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Hirst
Posted a lot
This avatar is inaccurate, I've never shaved that closely
Posts: 3,930
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That's odd, I'm certain the last time I heard about it, the rules were similar to driving to an MOT. Perhaps they've changed it, or perhaps I'm going mad.
Either way, the whole thing underlines how it isn't something to be getting into without asking someone who knows.
Edit: I was thinking of Road Tax, what a dumbbell. Obviously you don't need Road Tax as you've no way of obtaining it until the VIC is done. Need to do all that and get your new logbook.
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Last Edit: Aug 6, 2011 18:45:53 GMT by Hirst
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I know what you mean - everyone I spoke to said to do the VIC first then MOT, a good friend even said he knows someone in the trade that does this.
I was just about to book the VIC when I spotted the comment on the paperwork! MOT now done and just got to change a wheel bearing to get my pass...then I can book the VIC.
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Fair call on the model code - MS112 she is, my bad!
Interesting news on the write off category, at £850, it would only be worth it if you had a rough one to use all the nice shiny bits on, otherwise it might as well be on the track TBH.
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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30psi - would you mind clarifying about car B stuff being able to go back on the road?
I went to a fairly large, well established breakers yard a few years ago - they had a 1936 buick limousine in, which had had the front corner knocked off, and the chassis bent - the nice lady in the yard said that they tried their hardest to get the car classified as cat C so they could straighten it up and save it, but it went cat B so it was break only?
now I'm only going on personal knowledge, and this example, but if you can explain if and how you'd go about 'saving' a cat B - and what about cat A? - is there any circumstance when a car can NEVER go back on the road?
cheers - kfw
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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VIP
South East
Posts: 8,293
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I'd love some clarification too.
If it IS possible, I'm tempted to go have a look and wave 500 notes under his nose if it doesn't look like a massive lash-up.
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30psi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,024
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The insurance companies follow a code of practice. This a set of guidelines, or best practice but not strict procedures. Within this is the recommendation that the insurance company should make best endeavours to not have A's and B's return to the road. So when they contract with the salvage agents, then they may ask the agent to follow this approach. But it's not law that Cat A's and B's can't return to the road. The VIC scheme allows for it.
This best practice has been interpreted by the industry and the internet as one of complete fact.
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1962 Ford Thunderbird 6.4L
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS CA18DET
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS SR20DE
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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^^ thankyou for clarifying that
- so, if you were determined, you could buy a cat B, fix it to a good standard, do a VIC check, and apart from it being recorded on the v5c you'd be laughing?
very interesting....
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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30psi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,024
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Yeah you could.
However if the car is classified correctly as a B then you'd probably not want to repair it.
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1962 Ford Thunderbird 6.4L
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS CA18DET
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS SR20DE
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kevfromwales
Posted a lot
the conrod's REALLY out the block now!
Posts: 3,909
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well, as you say, depending on the age of the vehicle...
that '36 buick limo would have needed the chssis pulling straight, a front axle, grille, bonnet side and wing - but I can understand a seriously bent monocoque might be more troublesome!
-kfw
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Almost on the road: b11 sunny breadvan, e36 tds, 325i skidcar,
nearly there: ford f250 tathauler, suzuki alto, u11 bluey
not for a while: ford pop, 32 rails,
not in this lifetime: ruby, '29 hillman
''unfortanatly I'm quite old and scruffy and in need of some loving. my drive shaft needs a new boot....''
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Do they still have the Buick?
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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