p1RATE
Part of things
Posts: 355
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hello. I'm thinking of moving my battery to the boot of my 190.
Would it just be a case of getting a high grade audio power cable and running it through the car and attaching it to one place? or does the live cable split to more than one location?
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• 13 BMW 320d
• 92 Pink/Purple Mercedes 190e (Project)
• 97 Rover VI 1.8 (track car)
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chevazon
Posted a lot
1939 Chevrolet 2 door coupe, `67 `Zon estate, `87 Ragtop Cavalier, 4 x 800 Drifters,(!) 1500 Drifter
Posts: 2,259
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They are already fitted in the boot of the C180. It might be beneficial for you to have a look at a scrapper for bits.
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p1RATE
Part of things
Posts: 355
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• 13 BMW 320d
• 92 Pink/Purple Mercedes 190e (Project)
• 97 Rover VI 1.8 (track car)
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only expensive bit, really is the cable itself. To move to the boot you REALLY should use thicker cable than it would normally use, to help limit the volt-drop that WILL occur over the extra distance Best way to attatch it upto the front, depends on what's up there to begin with  |
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You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
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p1RATE
Part of things
Posts: 355
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so will it just be.. battery terminal > Length of 4 gage power cable > O ring and then connected to the car?
i suppose what I'm asking is where and how does the cable attach to the engine?
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• 13 BMW 320d
• 92 Pink/Purple Mercedes 190e (Project)
• 97 Rover VI 1.8 (track car)
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Iirc, you're not meant to use audio power cables as the core is somehow different to what you ideally want to use, I'll try and remember where that thread was...
Your other question, I cannot answer really.
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only difference is, it's more flexible than the normal battery stuff,so isn't ideal for hanging under a car, as it's more likely to droop, and snag on things. Plus it's chuffing expensive ;D
As for where to attatch it, follow the cable from the battery, and see where it leads. If it's ONE solid cable, attatching either directly to the starter motor, or to the fusebox, it's a simple replacement for the longer cable. If it splits off in several places into the nether regions of the loom/engine bay, then it's going to be "interesting"
I'd personally also double-up on the earth straps to the engine, and from the battery to the body. Only a couple of quid each, and is kinda "belt and braces"
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You're like a crazy backyard genius!
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,061 
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Relocating batterymk2cossie
@mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member 77
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as above, make sure ya get some good earths in there ;D mr and myself have both got relocated batteries, both just using 4gauge (i think) amp wiring for the power lead front to back not had any troubles with that cable for that purpose either  and make sure the relocated battery is well secured too  |
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p1RATE
Part of things
Posts: 355
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thanks for the replies!  ill have a look tonight to see where the cable goes. i tried before but couldnt see, so ill get under it this time. i had assumed it went straight to the starter but needed some confirmation! |
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• 13 BMW 320d
• 92 Pink/Purple Mercedes 190e (Project)
• 97 Rover VI 1.8 (track car)
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da6t
Part of things
Posts: 10
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Dec 22, 2011 22:10:48 GMT
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I used 25mm sqrd welding wire in my 1991 ef9!
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Dec 22, 2011 22:37:13 GMT
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I'd use better than 4 gauge personally - I run thicker than that for a couple of amplifiers! As stated above, the extra length increases the voltage drop. I know people get away with 4 gauge, but I'd be running 2, or 0. I got an 0 Gauge amp wiring kit off ebay for £35, maybe try one of those?
My T25 has a rear engine and the battery under the drivers seat, the wire is about an inch thick. It's mega stuff.
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