roundozo
Part of things
Retroless but not for long!
Posts: 332
|
|
|
|
|
Hi All,
As you may have seen, I’m really struggling to find a water pump for my 24v 2.9 cossy engine. For some reason it is incredibly hard now to find a water pump for the later BOB engine model and I am seriously running out of time.
I’ve been having a look at aftermarket electrical pumps and have found one (Davis Craig booster pump) for around £80.
What are your opinion of these, have you used an electric pump to replace a mechanical one, is it a good idea, etc?
Off to a motor factors tomorrow to look through their stock of ford water pumps in the hope they have a Scorpio one. If not I might have to seriously consider the electric route.
I look forward to your suggestions!
Cheers!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Volvo 440 / 480 turbo's have an aux electric pump attached on the nearside - just follow the pipework  Paul H |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
the aux pumps are only meant to improve coolant flow round heaters/coolers/etc. You'd need the "full-size" pump (couple of hundred £ from memory?) to get any form of useful cooling
Have you looked at scimitar essex V6 waterpumps? Essentially remote water pumps, so should be easy enough to modify to suit
|
| |
You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
ive read into electric water pumps, and even the expensive ones are actually not as good as a normal mech pump, they create all sorts of flow problems apparently.
|
| |
|
|
RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
|
|
|
|
|
Really? they're very widely used in racing cars where the original mechanical water-pump has been replaced by the dry-sump systems pump drive.
The main issue seems to be controlling them, but at the end of the day it's a similar principle to replacing a mechanical fan with an electric one. You don't have to run it mega fast (far above it's peak efficiency) at high revs, you don't have to stop it running the instance the engine's turned off, and you don't have to run it really slow when the car's at idle. Seems like a win-win solution to me, I can't see how there could be any flow issues as long as the waters entering and leaving the block where it always has done, but I'm not sure how easy that would be to do with a BOB.
The posh kits seem to come with a dedicated control unit, which seems the best way to go.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
yeah really mate.
It was the davies craig one they were talking about ( it was in a mag a few years ago, CCC IIRC) electric pumps, the theory is sound, but theory and practice are often two different things.
|
| |
|
|
RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
|
|
|
|
|
Yeah, I wasn't doubting you, just curious as to how it can be the case. I've certainly never heard of issues that aren't control related.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I think packaging is going to be the biggest problem here - the cologne water pump is built into a large casting that bolts to the front case, forming the water channel and the stat housing as well as the pump. Removing the pump means making a cover plate to match the engine for starters, and the water pump pulley is necessary for the aux belt to wrap round enough of the crank pulley to get drive so you would need an extra idler where it was too.
|
| |
To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I cant remeber the exact problesm, but i seem to remeber them mentioning cavitation due to the the design of the pump.
It was a good few years ago so possible the design of the pumps have improved, I'm in the mind that with something as important as a water pump i don't want it going wrong.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
It depends on the efficiency of the mechanical pump you're replacing .I run a Craig David ewp115 on the GTA V6 and so far had no issues shammoo ....
You need to put in the right place and angle .Mine is just after the rad and tilted inboard .Gta has about a 3m run from rad to lump so it is a good testbed
|
| |
|
|
|
|
bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
R.I.P photobucket
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
just a little titbit.. the electronic controller, IMHO, are both pointless, and not good for the engine! slowing the water volume through the engine at cold, will NOT aid warmup - the coolant will still heat up at the same rate. If anything, it just promotes localised boilling if you go electric (which unless it's an out and out race engine, it's not worth the hassle) set it to the voltage that gives it the most efficient flow rate (peak flow, with no cavitation) and have it on an ignition live, with possibly an overriding thermal switch for cooldown if you want to be anal...but if you've already gone electronic, missing out on that rather handy feature, would be a bit silly  |
| |
You're like a crazy backyard genius!
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,840
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
|
|
|
The main problem i've seen with them is that people make them flow too quickly. The water has got to stay in the rad for a bit for it to cool it.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Didn't fit the controller ,constant running on ignition .
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If it's any help, the bloke who has the 500bhp Maestro uses an electric water pump.
|
| |
|
|
roundozo
Part of things
Retroless but not for long!
Posts: 332
|
|
|
|
|
Managed to source an original ford pump now so going to just replace the mechanical one. Cant believe how hard they are to find! Its easier to find parts for the Cortina than the scorpio engine! Anyhows, all sorted now. Just need to put it all back together. MOT booked in for Monday so watch out road, here I come!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
good times! Direct swap fitment is ALWAYS easier ;D
|
| |
You're like a crazy backyard genius!
|
|
