Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Jul 21, 2011 15:32:08 GMT
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Just been offered this tasty Rangie for FREE, if i can get it to start. Guy is moving house and downsizing, and needs it to tow his boat about 4 miles down the road, before getting rid of it.
Problem is, since it was parked up about 18 months back, it no longer starts. I think there's an issue with the coil ground, as there's no continuity between the coil, and the negative terminal on the battery.
Has anyone got a wiring diagram for one of these, with the wiring colour key?
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Jul 21, 2011 15:59:54 GMT
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Is it electronic ignition or distributor?
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1997 TVR Chimaera
2009 Westfield Megabusa
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Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Jul 21, 2011 17:02:31 GMT
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Distributor.
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scruff
Part of things
Posts: 621
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Coils are usually switched earth so the coil should get +12v when the ignition is on.
Does it have points or is it electronic ignition?
Why was it parked? That is usally the best indicator...
Does it crank? If so do you get sparks at the plugs?
Usually starting from the beginning is the way forward: compression, sparks, fuel.
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1994 Lotus Esprit - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
1980 Porsche 924 - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
I spy a trend...
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Jul 22, 2011 18:21:44 GMT
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Just been offered this tasty Rangie for FREE, if I can get it to start. Guy is moving house and downsizing, and needs it to tow his boat about 4 miles down the road, before getting rid of it. Problem is, since it was parked up about 18 months back, it no longer starts. I think there's an issue with the coil ground, as there's no continuity between the coil, and the negative terminal on the battery. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for one of these, with the wiring colour key? There wouldn't be unless it was in the correct place to fire a spark plug ? first thing to check is what's not there, no spark or no fuel ? i guess no spark as that's what your testing? if it's points clean em up, corrosion will stop them earthing the coil to fire it ? |
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R.I.P photobucket
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Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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It was parked up because it wasn't needed. Like i said, it was fine when it was parked up in the barn. My feeling is either rusty grounding points, or mice in the wiring. There's no spark. Fuel and everything else checks out - it's JUST the coil/wiring.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Jul 24, 2011 11:37:23 GMT
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rusty points will be non grounding so no spark, if electronic ign check the crank trigger isn't cloged with dirt tha'ts solidified over the time standing and check all earths for the loom, TBH i doubt an EFi will still be running points ? some EFi systems use the coil firing to open the injectors (ford EECIV for instance) sorry i don't specificly know the RR system but if it's the same and the injectors are firing then the optical eye is ok and the coil has probably died out and burnt out? i have known then to rust and loose oil then die as soon as used again?
sorry not to be more specific as i say i don't really know the RR system all that well, maybe one of the landrover forum would be more help ??
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R.I.P photobucket
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Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Turned out to be the ignition amplifier - guy that had installed it beforehand didnt take off the 'peel off' plastic backing, so the module wasn't grounding at all. Got spark straight away then. Just need to time it up, and then it should run!  However, the bodywork is maaaaannnnnkyyyyyyy and needs a lot of replacement panels. Aside from Rimmer Bros, is there anywhere else that sells good quality panels for these? |
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task
Part of things
Posts: 374
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2 door or 4 door?
You can generally get good panels from a breakers yard/ebay/web forums but if the top panels are manky then it'd be a good guess to say the body panels underneath are shot too.
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Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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4 door. Need inner wings on both sides, need new sills on both sides, passenger side 'a' post repair and new rear wheelarches...oh and rear bumper/floorpan bit.
All the doors, bonnet, roof, tailgate are in good nick, just need paint as the lacquer has peeled.
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Last Edit: Jul 25, 2011 7:20:58 GMT by Kai
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task
Part of things
Posts: 374
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how good are you with the welder?
YRM Metal Solutions in Durham (UK) will supply you with all the panels you've mentioned there, I got all the bodyshell repair panels for the CSK from them. A lot of the parts come zinc coated too.
The rear bumper/floorpan bit is known as the rear X-member and rear floor. You can't buy rear floors but yours should be ally anyway, good condition S/H one for £20. The rear X-member is not a massive job if you've taken all the body panels off. The sides of the floor might be an issue but depending how bad they are you might get away with just patching.
If those areas are gone the front footwells may also be a little ropey along with the bulkhead in places.
Get some photos up! You've started well though, it runs and it was free!
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Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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task
Part of things
Posts: 374
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Looks quite bad that does!
Front inner wings were bolted on the early ones, up to sometime in the early 80's.
If he's having to pay someone for the work and the panels then I can imagine he's going to have costs over £2000 to get all the rust cut out of that properly. Not worth it really, you can get a good condition one for a little more.
It's a shame he changed his mind :/
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Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Damn. So its all going to need welding? Why change from Bolted to welded - just makes it an  for the rest of us  I don't mind doing the other work he needs but i think i'm out of my depth on the welding front. Sourcing parts doesn't look too hard although you see under the numberplate, is that the crossmember you mentioned? |
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task
Part of things
Posts: 374
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Nope, that's just the rear bumper trim. The X-member is behind the bumper, where the tailgate hinges are attached. If you lift the rear carpet out it's what the rear-most section of the floor rests on You might get away with patching the front inner wings but I'm of the opinion of a job's worth doing... Replacing the inner wings is a pain though, you need to remove nearly everything under the bonnet to get at stuff, time consuming. I don't know why they changed, may have been a structural decision though. |
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Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Jul 25, 2011 10:08:13 GMT
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If this guy will shell out for a mig welder, i'll give it a shot, with full panels, rather than patching. The surrounding metal is clean, but thinner than a rizla in places, and i'd feel a lot better with NEW metal in there. Found the A pillar repair section at that YRM Metal gaff - that, i think i could do easily enough. Have the Range Rover Restoration manual, shame the photo's are too small for my eyes, and in black and white, too >_<
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task
Part of things
Posts: 374
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Jul 25, 2011 12:43:51 GMT
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A pillar/B pillar isn't too hard, although getting it to look decent after can be a little harder. With the front inner wings you might get away with the repair panels rather than the entire wing. Chances are you're going to be looking at re doing a few brake lines in the process, these need to be removed to do the wings and rarely come apart without shearing. It'll be good practice for the welding though, by the time you've finished  If you get stuck feel free to give me a shout, I have 100's of photos besides those I PM'd you |
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Kai
Part of things
Posts: 276
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Jul 25, 2011 13:23:57 GMT
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Full size shots of the removal/cutting points of the old wing - the whole thing needs to be replaced, its about as structurally sound as a wet cardboard box :/
Brake lines are already in the 'list of things to buy' along with shocks and springs all round. I may end up doing a refresh on the engine for the guy - the exhaust manifolds look manky as hell :/
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rodney
Posted a lot
https://www.facebook.com/RD-vehicle-transport-and-recovery-services-525622614268010/
Posts: 1,677
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Jul 25, 2011 14:42:13 GMT
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you got it running for him then he decided he don't want to give it to you?? , takes the curse word ,
if your getting paid and you feel you could repair it as it needs a lot of welding then go for it otherwise tell him to curse word off coz hes taking the mick!,.
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facebook: rodney dean / rd transport  |
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Only advice I can give you is to do one bit at a time. Don't... I repeat, do not... strip down the whole car. Keep it running and concentrate on one small area of welding at a time. When that bit is done and painted up reassemble fully so there are no parts or screws left over and then move onto the next bit.
The other way is to strip down the whole car, lose faith ending up with a pile of spares on the ground. If you do it like I say and don't get carried away then you'll be fine. At least you will always have a running car. Even if you never finish it.
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