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Hello there. Not strictly car related but related to working on cars. Me and my dad have two compressors, both identical, 50l 'beginner' ones, i guess, and we were wondering, would it be possible to link the two up with a Y piece or similar? We don't need more pressure, but more capacity would be useful, so if its doable, then brilliant. But need to know first, is it doable?  |
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I'm guessing you want more air throughput, not just tank volume (you could do that just by hooking them up and having only one run; but it then takes twice as long to fill o'course).
To run two together you can indeed use a Y-piece, I've done that to get more oomph for blasting. You likely need to adjust the cut-in/out on one comp, to avoid them starting together and causing a spike and a trip. These switches usally work off an adjuster that alters both cut in and cutout at once, as you twiddle it.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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I'm guessing you want more air throughput, not just tank volume (you could do that just by hooking them up and having only one run; but it then takes twice as long to fill o'course). To run two together you can indeed use a Y-piece, I've done that to get more oomph for blasting. You likely need to adjust the cut-in/out on one comp, to avoid them starting together and causing a spike and a trip. These switches usally work off an adjuster that alters both cut in and cutout at once, as you twiddle it. Might need this in tard terms, not compressor savvy! |
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 To get more air through, linking comps gives you double the pump output. Say one comp displaces 9cfm, it probs puts out say 6cfm FAD (Free Air Delivery - yer actual air output, cubic feet/min). So linking two comps gives 12cfm output. When they startup (or re-start, when the pressures dropped to a certain level) there's a voltage spike. So the normal thing is to adjust the pressure at which one comp cuts in, so's to have only one starting up at once. Otherwise if the two comps start simultaneously the bigger voltage spike can trip the breaker. There's an adjuster inside the switch housing that fine-tunes the pressure at which the comp cuts in, it's normally a screw-type thing and when you lower the cut-in, it also lowers the cut-out pressure with it. Pretty sure there's pics/diags of these on the MIG forum, it's been talked about there quite a lot, its well worth a sniff around there. mig-welding.co.uk/forum
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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I did this slightly differently, as I had one tank but two compressors - one fitted on the tank, and the other just an old self contained compressor (i.e. motor and compressor as a single unit).
I ran a 240v relay off the pressure switch to the second compressor, so both turn on and off together (I've got suppressors on both to avoid the electrical spike issue).
Air wise, I used a 'normal' quick release connector and short hose to the second compressor. I need to check where I actually 'teed' the air into the tank - I'll try and have a look this morning!
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Jul 11, 2011 17:50:55 GMT
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I teed off my compressor the other day.
Was days before it forgave me
Boom Boom. ;D
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Last Edit: Jul 11, 2011 17:51:33 GMT by fordmk1mad
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To get more air through, linking comps gives you double the pump output. Say one comp displaces 9cfm, it probs puts out say 6cfm FAD (Free Air Delivery - yer actual air output, cubic feet/min). So linking two comps gives 12cfm output.
