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Electrical Help

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lawcockld Part of things K11 Pocket Rocket WIP Posts: 49	Electrical Help lawcockld @lawcockld
	Jul 5, 2011 18:11:30 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Hello all, not sure if this belongs in here but here goes; I have a K11 micra which i am installing remote central locking into. I'm hoping to remove all the locks and weld up/smooth the holes for aesthetics and have had an idea which i need some advice on. I hope to install a small 12V 7Ah SLA battery as a backup via a DPDT switch hidden somewhere accessible from outside the car incase the car battery fails (leave lights on etc). I have done this before but it was regularly charged up when the car was garaged so charging was not an issue but i don't have a garage now and wondered if a split charge system would work like on a leisure battery or would it fry such a small battery? Any ideas/advice welcome, over to you! Many thanks in advance
	.:Luke:.

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ben711200 Posted a lot Posts: 3,412	Electrical Help ben711200 @ben711200
	Jul 5, 2011 20:29:41 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Imagine the shame and embarrassment if your backup battery had gone flat and you didn't realise ;D Rather than that, I'd run a permanent 'jump lead' type affair to somewhere you can access from outside the car with a handy 12v feed from a mate/passer by/your computer power supply and a long cable . I'd suggest some sort of caravan style socket but you'd only keep the lead for it in the boot of your locked car and then it'd be back to square one... I think that having a hidden external switch is a good idea though. I never quite trust alarm fobs to work every time. Lastly.. Don't smooth the boot lock. At least that way you'll never be absolutley screwed.
	Last Edit: Jul 5, 2011 20:34:27 GMT by ben711200 Oct 12, 2012 9:40:03 GMT Robinxr4i said: ...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.

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murran Part of things Posts: 610	Electrical Help murran @murran
	Jul 5, 2011 21:01:48 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	these are good when your in a sticky situation such as the one your describing...... cgi.ebay.co.uk/EMERGENCY-SAFETY-HAMMER-WINDOWS-GLASS-AND-SEATBELTS-/190466052323?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c58a950e3 failing that don't be daft enough to leave your car without a mechanical lock. as ben said just don't remove the boot lock in your quest for styling.


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Rev. Dick Deluxe Part of things Back, with knobs on. Posts: 454	Electrical Help Rev. Dick Deluxe @dickdeluxe
	Jul 5, 2011 21:04:05 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Jumper points hidden behind the rear number plate.
	R.S. Autotech. Servicing/Repairs/Diagnostics.

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popuptoaster Probably posted too much Posts: 10,001	Electrical Help popuptoaster @popuptoaster
	Jul 5, 2011 21:34:28 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	i would fit a boot lock under the number plate, you wont need all the extra wiring or weight of a spare battery, it could even just be a hole in the panel with a bit of wire through it to pop the lock, stick gaffer tape over it to keep the water out, no ones gonna see it under the number late. Remember. K.I.S.S
	Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.

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lawcockld Part of things K11 Pocket Rocket WIP Posts: 49	Electrical Help lawcockld @lawcockld
	Jul 6, 2011 11:53:09 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Well thanks for the help/advice guys. My initial plan was to keep the boot lock and relocate it behind the numberplate but the geek inside me made me want to overcomplicate things as usual lol! I think I'll stick with the original idea of hiding the boot lock behind the numberplate Cheers
	.:Luke:.

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bortaf Posted a lot Posts: 4,549	Electrical Help bortaf @bortaf
	Jul 6, 2011 12:11:20 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Done this a few times, i used a fork lift truck charge socket hidden and capped to jump the doors open cheap as i got it out the frag yard when dropping a load
	R.I.P photobucket

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popuptoaster Probably posted too much Posts: 10,001	Electrical Help popuptoaster @popuptoaster
	Jul 6, 2011 22:22:44 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	a lot of cars you can get a jump lead on the starter motor solonoid from underneath if you know where it is.
	Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.

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cobblers Posted a lot Posts: 3,921	Electrical Help cobblers @cobblers
	Jul 7, 2011 16:00:58 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Jul 6, 2011 22:22:44 GMT popuptoaster said: a lot of cars you can get a jump lead on the starter motor solonoid from underneath if you know where it is. Or the alternator. Alternatively, A 9v battery connector: Wired in in parallel with one of the door pop motors and hidden somewhere accessible would probably get you out of a bind. Click a battery on and the door pops open. We wired a mates car up like this, it worked fine but never actually got used, since the only time he flattened the battery the AA just jumped it on the alternator terminal to get the door open.


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damien4884 Posted a lot Posts: 1,114	Electrical Help damien4884 @damien4884
	Jul 7, 2011 16:25:56 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	You could have a second bonnet pull under arch or bumper (depending on where it would fit). I had a release for the boot of my golf mounted behind the rear seat, ready for when the ebay special solenoid failed.
	1977 datsun 810 180b estate

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