Mike
East Midlands
Posts: 3,387
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I've bought another Peugeot 205, in 1.4 flavour this time. After driving it a few miles a couple of problems have come to light. The first is that it's smoking, not all the time, just when you hoof it. It's bluey smoke, so I took a wild stab at it being the valve stem seals that are the problem. Does that sound right? If they are the problem, how difficult are they to change? I've read that they can be done without removing the head, is that correct?
The second, and slightly less bothersome problem is that one of the driveshafts has started to clonk a bit when you set off with any gusto. Are these costly/annoying to change?
Any help/advice about these problems would be great, I'm well ticked off that I didn't realise they were an issue before I bought the car, and I want to either sort them, or push it off a cliff. I suppose it'll teach me to take a longer test drive when buying a car!
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2011 20:49:16 GMT by Mike
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Just changing the VSOS may not be the end of the problem, the valve guides could also be worn, whch means removing the head, strip and measure.
Driveshafts knocking will probably be cv joint, not too costly and easy repair.
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I've made adaptors from gutted spark plugs, steel tube, and an air fitting welded together (for compressed air). Or stuffing nylon rope into the chambers is an old trick.
My Landy smoked on startup, the seals were shot and the guides worn, new stem seals stopped it smoking, but would be far better to recon the head - I just didn't have the ££s at that time.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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VIP
South East
Posts: 8,299
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From what I learnt last playday, blue smoke on throttle is rings, blue smoke on overrun/idle is stem seals?
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Last Edit: Jul 3, 2011 21:36:45 GMT by VIP
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filmidget
East Midlands
Mostly Lurking
Posts: 1,652
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^^^^ That sounds familiar about the blue smoke.
From what I gather driveshafts on 205s are almost a service item... and it's not easy to just change CV joints, you replace the whole driveshaft about about £50 per side.
I will be able to tell you what sort of job it is in a few weeks as I have to do both on my XS, as they are pretty knackered.
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'79 MG Midget 1500 - Still patiently awaiting attention
'02 Vauxhall Astra 1.8 Elegance(!) - Better than you might think
'03 Mazda MX5 - All new and shiny looking (thanks to Antony at Rust Republic)
'09 Renault Clio - Needs to go.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,307
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Smokey Peugeot TU engineChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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The engine could be rings if it smokes on acceleration. Do you have access to a compression tester and able to do a wet and dry test? If the driveshafts like like the XU engined items they are a piece of piddle to do. Undo the hub nut, Knock the balljoint out, and carefully take the driveshaft out using a crowbar (most of them slide out). On some with an intermediate bearing, the bearing will need to be moved from the engine mount housing with a small chisel on bearing on the surface of the bearing itself and not the engine mount! There is a good guide on how to change these on the 306 GTi-6 forum  . Another thing. Use BV spec gear oil. GSF sell it under the Total insignia, and Peugeot sell it for similar money. It should make the shifting a little nicer in addition to helping the 'bearings in the box (former I agree with, second I have heard from enthusiasts). Another thing, check your engine mounts. My GTi knocked when the lower mount collapsed (it was only a year old too!). |
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Mike
East Midlands
Posts: 3,387
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Cheers for the help, nice to know the driveshafts aren't too much of a problem, if thats what the knocking is.
UPDATE:
I've had a proper a poke around the 205 today (which I really should have done before I bought it...) and found a couple of things; the crankcase breather is absolutely sodden with oil, and consequently so is air filter housing and in the carb, so this might be causing the smoking? The second thing was that the low-water light came on this week (I didn't use the car after this came on), so I thought I'd check the level and lo and behold, the waterisn't low, but is almost 50:50 water to oil. Joy. My cursory check under the oil cap for mayo upon purchase was obviously wasted time.
I'm guessing (and correct me if I'm wrong) that the headgasket has gone, but would this cause oil to be forced out of the breather?
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scruff
Part of things
Posts: 621
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Jul 10, 2011 10:12:15 GMT
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Yep. HG is fooked and all sorts of weird things will happen.
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1994 Lotus Esprit - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
1980 Porsche 924 - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
I spy a trend...
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Jul 10, 2011 11:29:52 GMT
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Yup HG bout twenty quid to replace if you do the job yourself.
Drive shafts are simple hour a side max
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Some days you just need to take a grinder to an inanimate object, just to make your day a tiny bit better!!
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Jul 10, 2011 22:14:56 GMT
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IIRC on the 205 the intermediate drive shaft bearing on the drivers side is held in with 3 bolts and rectangular washers, you undo the bolt a few turns then turn the washers 90Deg and the bearing slides out, there's no circlip on that shaft so it comes out easy ?
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Last Edit: Jul 10, 2011 22:16:03 GMT by bortaf
R.I.P photobucket
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THE_Liam
Yorkshire and The Humber
If at first you don't succeed... HAMMERS.
Posts: 1,363
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Jul 10, 2011 22:25:17 GMT
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The HG is easy to change on these, but it's a pig on an XU, trust me  |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,307
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Smokey Peugeot TU engineChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Jul 10, 2011 23:38:42 GMT
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That's right about the retainers on the bearing. Best thing to do IMO is to move them 90 degrees and then tighten them up whilst they are out of the way. That way, they do not obstruct the driveshaft when it is removed.
When I did the engine mount on the 205 there was no circlip present on either the intermediatted bearing or any of the driveshafts on the inner CV end.
I would probably changed the driveshaft seal at this point. The genuine seals seem not to leak, unlike the aftermarket items. A more modern design is probably the key to this.
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