Steve
Posted a lot
Making progress in small, easy to handle chunks of awesome
Posts: 2,038
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Jun 28, 2011 20:34:29 GMT
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Evening ladies and gents A bit trivial at this stage, but I'm having trouble trying to decide which to go for on my Landy project....normal Intercooler or Chargecooler(water-cooled)? The only reason I'm even thinking about the subject is down to space issues... what with having to install a large radiator for the motor and oil coolers for both motor&autobox AND some means of cooling the intake gases......its gonna get crowded under that bonnet! If you don't know what I'm doing, here's a VERY brief spec: 1 x Oldsmobile 350 V8 + 1 x Schwitzer S200G Turbocharger ;D Going under the bonnet of a Series 3 Land-Rover with a STANDARD front-end (i.e not changing to a Defender front) I could at a push make room for an Intercooler if i must, but it must fit within the standard front-end and not be immediatly obvious...... Anyone got any idea's or thoughts on the matter? Thanks in advance Steve
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Jun 28, 2011 20:44:34 GMT
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i'm going water/air on my next engine swap, partly due to space but also i think it's a much better setup. be aware you will need to fit a small front mounted radiator for the water part of the water/air cooler. also will need a pump, and swirl pot type thing to fill it up. good thing is you won't need to run large bore intake pipes to and from a front mounted air/air intercooler.
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Jun 28, 2011 20:49:53 GMT
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Running a water to air (chargecooler) will need a radiator and a pump where as an intercooler will just need the 'rad' The chargecooler will save you space in the pipework dept. because the water pipe needed is a lot narrower (a LOT) than an intercooler set-up. I had a chargecooler on my Mk1 MR2 (2.0 Mk2 turbo lump with hybrid turbo) which previously had the standard intercooler. The PO had rolling road graphs for both the charge and intercooler and the chargecooler increased horsepower by 15bhp!! A lot of this is probably down to the mid-engine arrangement and a small intercooler mounted by the side vent in the rear compared to the chargecooler rad mounted at the front with a slim (Cinquecento) rad where pipelength isn't an issue. If you think the pipework from the intercooler to the turbo will be fairly long you might run into lag issues, if you think you have the space for a slim radiator and a pump then a chargecooler might be the direction to go in? Celica GT4 pumps are popular. Give me a call if you want more info, about time we had a catch-up Dude. [edit] Beaten to it by Mr Ramone - must teach my typing finger to work faster ;D [/edit]
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30psi
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,024
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What's it being used for?
If it's for drag racing or for off road then I'd consider a charge cooler. Drag racing only last a few seconds so may as well just have a charge cooler with cold water in their, but off roading won't have the air speed to cool down an intercooler so a charge cooler with a large water volume and a rad with a fan may be a better route.
If it's for the open fast road then an intercooler is easiest
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1962 Ford Thunderbird 6.4L
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS CA18DET
1981 Datsun Bluebird SSS SR20DE
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A chargecooler is good as it lets you get the charge air temps to below ambient, whereas an intercooler cant. HOWEVER you need to realise that the water will eventually heat up. unless you fit a massive water tank and cooling radiator for it. The intercooler setup will be simpler, cheaper and if used for prolonged periods be more efficient. But as mentioned if its only for short burst then the chargecooler system is your best bet, as you can use ice to bring the water tems RIGHT down to almost freezing temps which as you know is great for power
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You might be able to find it cheaper, but this has been about the going rate on eBay for the past few years at least....actually not too bad when you think this is the complete set-up and all you'll need is probably some different pipework to get everything located on you Landy. Pipework is dead easy because it's just to route the water. cgi.ebay.co.uk/Gt4-complete-chargecooler-setup-Mr2-turbo-Celica-St205-/130539253410?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e64beeea2This was the system I had in my MR2 and it's pretty darn effective. The pump is quite powerful and the only thing I had different was the pipework and rad (mine was a Cinquecento rad for even better cooling) A number of Subaru's also had chargecoolers (most seemed to have intercoolers), so did Citroen XM TD's so there might be a few avenues to explore there, but I can vouch for the Celica GT4 set-up being a good system to have and easy to adapt.
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Jun 29, 2011 10:53:55 GMT
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I've been told that mk2 focus ST's use a very neat and compact water-air charge cooler, so that might be another route to explore. Although all these set-ups are designed around ~2l engines, and I'd imagine you'd have to make sure they're not out of their depth in terms of cooling, and air-flow above the power the manufacturers intended them for. Maybe you could use 2 running parallel, they could share a common radiator and pump.
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Jun 29, 2011 11:49:44 GMT
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Robin its the mk1 RS IIRC that uses the W2A system, but most ditch it in favour of a FMIC due to charge air temps increasing dramatically when they start tuning them, so there are always a couple on ebay for sale.
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Jun 29, 2011 11:54:53 GMT
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Ah, fair play, you're probably right on that one, like I said, I'd been told, rather than actually having seen first hand.
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scruff
Part of things
Posts: 621
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Jun 29, 2011 13:46:13 GMT
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Chargecooler and fit air con....
Drop the cold bit of the air con in the chargecooler tank...
Then when normally driving you have the air con off and a normal chargecooler setup but when expecting 'heavy work' turn the air con on before hand and chill the chargecoler water right down, turn it off and enjoy a tempoary boost in power until it warms up again.
I wonder how much BHP air con would require vs how much cold intake temps boost BHP? It's not like it's 'free' energy as colder intake air allows more fuel to be added so that is where the gains come from...
As above the chargecooler is heavier but easier to plumb in, intercooelr is physically larger and probably cheaper too.
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1994 Lotus Esprit - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights. 1980 Porsche 924 - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
I spy a trend...
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Jun 29, 2011 18:06:16 GMT
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some guys have actually done the calculations and the aircon saps alot more power than it creates, but the boost cooler idea is actually used on Ford F150 lightning trucks, while your not driving hard use the AC to cool the cahrgecooler water, gives a 10 percent increase in power for about a minute at full boost before the water heats back up
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Jun 30, 2011 14:05:29 GMT
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This is the water/air setup in my Saab 99. You can see the core mounted behind the radiator. The core I've got is the XS-Power branded core which comes from China. I think there are other people importing it as well and you can probably buy direct from China if you search worldwide eBay. I've nothing against China stuff if it's simple like this. Heard too many horror stories about China turbos though! I used a radiator from a MINI as the cooling for the water. It was a big radiator so I didn't bother with a tank but I might add a tank later. The radiator has a fan on the back of it. The advantage of a water/air setup is that you need an air/air core x4 the size of the water/air core to get the same conversion rate. You can also have a shorter intake tract. Some manufactures like Mercedes actually build the core into the intake plenum. The water/air units made by PWR are pipe shaped so they fit inline with the charge hose. A good water/air setup basically has a straight pipe from the turbo to the throttle body with just a small diversion into the water core. Mine needs tweaking still. For the next revision I'm going to mount the core on the side of the engine block under the intake manifold. You can get a different Saab manifold with a centre mounted throttle body and I will butt the chargecooler exit straight up to that. A pipe straight from the turbo will go into the intake side of the core. Reason I used the air/water method was down to space. The 16v turbo engine only just fits into the 99 engine bay. The old 99 radiator does not cool that well either. Having something in front of it would be silly. I'm going to move my MINI radiator down and outside the engine bay and redesign the front bumper to include a duct to drive air into the radiator. I don't have any evidence to suggest my current setup does not work but I'm not happy that I did the best job with the original setup. No such thing as 'too good' where chargecooling is concerned. The better the chargecooling the more boost you can run. I think I'm going to put a water temp sensor into the core so I can see if I get heatsoak or not. I already have an intake air temp sensor but that is a relatively new addition so not had a chance to monitor air temps yet. The downsides of an air/water setup is the complexity, chances of failure, weight, cost, what to do about heatsoak. Cooling wise, if both setups are working properly then there is no difference between the two. Both are just as effective, assuming you are not dumping ice into the water. The other thing people have done in the past is added water injection. That works but you have to keep an eye on the water level in your tank. Make sure you have some sort of warning system to let you know when the tank needs filling. Water injection hurts power but having it working means you aren't going to wreck the engine. You can increase the boost a lot when you are running the water injection but because you are adding water to the mixture it is effectively damping the flame and reducing efficiency. To work around this people sometimes use methanol in the water to counteract the effect of the water. I don't know how much it costs for methanol but I bet its not as cheap as straight water.
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Jun 30, 2011 20:04:04 GMT
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can you fit a cooler on top of the engine under a bonnet bulge? no reason the rad has to go at the front providing you duct it correctly.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Jun 30, 2011 20:16:44 GMT
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can you fit a cooler on top of the engine under a bonnet bulge? no reason the rad has to go at the front providing you duct it correctly. Some cars have intercoolers mounted on top of the engine (with a bonnet duct) but the downside is the heat from the engine rising and affecting efficiency. Subaru used a water spray bar to increase cooling by spraying a mist of water over the intercooler. Very effetive but only if there is a good flow of air to force evaporation. This could also be an effective way of increasing cooling on a water to air rad (on the rad, not the cooler) to bring the water temp right down. The downside is having to use yet another water tank (washer bottle) I found the water temp in the chargecooler system on my MR2 never got above tepid at worst. Even after lots of spirited driving with the turbo working hard, the Cinquecento rad did a really good job of keeping things very cool. After having it in the MR2, I am a complete convert and would prefer it over an intercooler any day.
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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Jun 30, 2011 20:34:16 GMT
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As abit of an indictation, the new MAN tractor units have gone from a big intercooler to a thin little rad and 2 charge coolers 1 Is mounted to the bottom of the sump and the other between the 2 turbo's.
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Steve
Posted a lot
Making progress in small, easy to handle chunks of awesome
Posts: 2,038
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Jun 30, 2011 20:39:52 GMT
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Thanks for all the replies lads, it does seem that the chargecooler is the prefered option! The original idea with this project was gonna be a sub-12 second drag landy just cos as far as I'm aware there isnt one on the scene here in England, but that would kind of make it of limited use on the road (which is where its likely to spend most of its time ) so might reel it in a bit and look at the easiest option in terms of cost and practicality which comes back to the Intercooler I don't know if the extra few (possible) ponies are worth the extra weight and complexity of the Chargecooler.......might just say sod it and put a full height/width Intercooler hanging out the front and just paint it to match the bodywork ;D What can i say........i cant decide what "it" is I'm building!! Steve
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rtlkyuubi
Posted a lot
Low and Slow
Posts: 2,922
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Jun 30, 2011 20:48:26 GMT
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well what ever you do dude can be changed. Go for the intercooler as its cheaper but if you find its not working properly, then go to charge cooler
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That's not why you would choose water/air over air/air. Remember, if both systems are working properly and they are like for like then there is no difference in efficiency. The air core has to be 4 times larger than the water/air core and the water/air system has to be setup in such a way that the water does not heatsoak. If you can fit in an air/air core then probably best to go with that instead of the air/water setup. Worth pointing out the effect is cumulative. So water only heatsoaks if the system is fighting a losing battle. If the system is actually cooling the charge air well then the cool intake gasses are cooler coming out the exhaust and so the whole turbo unit runs cooler, the engine oil and turbo water jacket run cooler. The only thing heating up the air then is the fact of compression, if the chargecooler is working well enough then that heat should be taken straight out as the intake passes through the chargecooler and it will never overheat.
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