Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
|
|
Jun 27, 2011 10:08:07 GMT
|
|
Hi all
Struggling like anything at the moment with a crankshaft pulley bolt on my 91 Polo (1.3 AAV Engine)
Breaker bar wont touch it
450nm 240V Impact Wrench won't touch it.
Plan for tonight is to attack it with a longer bar (read scaffold pole). Rest the socket extension on an axle stand to support it and stop/limit sideways force on and slip the pole over the breaker for extra leverage.
I'm half expecting the breaker/socket/extension to snap (it's only 1/2" drive), but worried about snapping the bolt head off! Which would probably mean new engine
How tight should these things be, and it IS RH thread isnt it (anti-clockwise to loosen).
I'm locking it in 5th with the brakes on hard - once the flex/play in the box is taken up it locks hard.
I need to undo it to replace the oil seal!
Cheers!
Tim
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 27, 2011 10:21:12 GMT
|
|
Crank pulley bolts are sometimes like that! Good luck mate. Penetrating oil, impact and leverage are all your friends.
|
| |
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
Jun 27, 2011 10:50:48 GMT
|
|
I had the same problem with mine - ended up getting a mate to jam a chisel in the flywheel ring gear to lock it. I then put about 2 feet of extension bars on the socket (going through the hole in the inner wing) so that the end was outside of the wing and rested it on an axle stand with a bit of box section tacked on top to stop it slipping. I then put a 4 foot breaker bar on it and a length of scaffold pole and it came off. They're crazy tight, but once cracked you can undo them with your fingers.
Matt
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 27, 2011 11:14:34 GMT
|
|
There are two things that never fail to get very tight crankshaft bolts undone, one is safe the other less so.....
1. A big windy gun, obviously only works if you have a big windy gun, and a compressor.
2. A large breaker bar and a flick of the starter.... Obviously, make bloody sure the engine wont start (take the plugs out - lessens the compression, makes it easier for the starter to turn the engine) and be bloody careful where you put the end of the breaker bar....... Seriously, if you're not careful, this could go very very wrong, however, if you are, it makes them a very easy job.....
|
| |
Current fleet:
'58 A35 (half mine)
'67 11 window splitscreen vw (half mine)
'77 mini 1000 (not quite 1000 any more!!)
'86 Armstrong MT500
'89 XR4X4
'94 Corrado VR6
Some sort of sevenesque kit car (no age yet!!)
'01 Mondeo estate 2.0 (engine eventually destined for kit car!) - scrapped, engine only left!
'98 E300 estate, rusty but seemingly reliable, fast-ish tat hauler. eventual engine donor
A35 van, or whats left of it after it lived in a field for many years
|
|
Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
|
|
Jun 27, 2011 11:26:36 GMT
|
|
Sasquar - windy gun isn't available, and Option 2 has been outlined a couple of times, but i'm not brave enough to try it whilst there may be other options available :-)
Matt - thats the general idea, apart from i can't get anything to stay in the flywheel (tried a chisel - keeps slipping). Brakes seem to hold it though. Was a bit worried about something breaking and ending up inside the bell housing as well!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 27, 2011 11:29:39 GMT
|
|
I have had a crank pulley bolt which wouldn't losen with the starter motor method. Saab tractors are tough to work on sometimes.
Something else I would recommend trying is to leave the engine idling for 1/2 an hour until it is well and truely cooking.
Then try and open the crank pulley bolt.
Good luck.
These days I use method number 1 posted above. Works every time.
|
| |
|
|
Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
|
|
Jun 27, 2011 11:47:54 GMT
|
|
Can't run engine as it wont hold oil!
Plus, it's partially in bits :-)
|
| |
|
|
Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
|
|
|
|
|
VW crank nuts are pretty much all like that in my experience.
matts method is best imho, as its also my method! having someone else there holding a chisel in the flywheel teeth does make a big difference over holding it on the brakes.
|
| |
|
|
RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
|
|
|
|
|
Yeah, get something wedged in the flywheel, my Scirocco's one was a pain too, windy gun wouldn't do it, and locking it in gear the play in the box absorbed most of the force being put through it. Screwdriver in the flywheel teeth and a big breaker bar got it in the end.
|
| |
|
|
Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
|
|
Jun 28, 2011 11:13:13 GMT
|
|
Struggled to get a chisel/scredriver not to slip, but will persevere.
Cheers all
|
| |
|
|
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
Jun 28, 2011 11:17:56 GMT
|
|
Have you taken the starter off it's easiest to jam on in there?
|
| |
|
|
Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
|
|
Jun 28, 2011 11:25:55 GMT
|
|
Yeah starter off
|
| |
|
|
murran
Part of things
Posts: 610
|
|
Jun 28, 2011 17:40:10 GMT
|
|
take the spark plug out of no.1 get the engine so its past the tdc marks on the crank and cam about half way down the no.1 power stroke... feed in some soft rope into the cylinder to lock the engine up as you undo the crank bolt..... or in the same engine position try filling the cyl with gear oil and refit the plug to hydraulic it in the same way (might make a mess when you spin the engine over with the plugs out to get the oil back out! then smoke abit on start up!).....
or bob the sump off and stick a chunk of wood in the crank somewhere.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 28, 2011 21:41:05 GMT
|
|
Breaker bar and starter motor - works a charm.
I was wary the first tie I tried this, but nothing would touch the bolt.... impact guns, breaker bars with scaffold poles etc.... the more leverage I tried, the riskier things became of either the tool slipping and hurting me, or breaking something important.
Just put the socket on a std breaker bar and place it firmly on the bolt, leaving a few inches between the bar and whatever is going to stop it, whether its the ground of the lower arm etc. Disconnect whatever is needed to prevent the engine firing, and give it a turn of the key....works perfectly.
|
| |
1986 Panda 4x4.
1990 Metro Sport.
1999 Ford Escort estate.
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 28, 2011 22:33:12 GMT
|
|
Did the one on the MR2 the other week to replace the pulley / change cam belt. Air impact gun wouldnt do it, was about to try the starter method but managed to get it to go by locking the flywheel with a screwdriver and using a 3ft scaffold pole on the 1/2" breaker bar. It went with a bloody scary bang! This method was made much easier by the inspection pit.
|
| |
1997 TVR Chimaera
2009 Westfield Megabusa
|
|
Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 10:04:16 GMT
|
|
I've got a 10ft scaffold pole sat in the carport, ready and waiting.
Just need to find someone to lock the brakes/flywheel for me :-)
|
| |
|
|
bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 12:13:55 GMT
|
|
Is this the pully with the 4 allen head bolts that hold it to the cambelt totther wheel behind?
had these before and had to borrow a commercial nut gun to get the dam thing off !!
for locking the brakes i have a "special" tool (cut down broom) to wedge the pedal down against the front seat ;D
|
| |
Last Edit: Jun 29, 2011 12:14:51 GMT by bortaf
R.I.P photobucket
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 12:32:11 GMT
|
|
Yeah 4 allen bolts for the pulley, usually at least one already half rounded off lol.
|
| |
|
|
MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,791 
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 12:45:19 GMT
|
take the spark plug out of no.1 get the engine so its past the tdc marks on the crank and cam about half way down the no.1 power stroke... feed in some soft rope into the cylinder to lock the engine up as you undo the crank bolt..... or in the same engine position try filling the cyl with gear oil and refit the plug to hydraulic it in the same way (might make a mess when you spin the engine over with the plugs out to get the oil back out! then smoke abit on start up!)..... or bob the sump off and stick a chunk of wood in the crank somewhere. I would strongly advise against jamming the top of the engine, either by rope or hydraulically, as you risk bending the conrods. Blocking in the crankwebs is a much better idea  Is the gearbox off ? If so, you could quickly make a locking tool to engage in the ring gear teeth and bolt to the bell housing, then get a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar. 1/2" is working against you as it'll just bend and spring thus reducing the amount of effort actually reaching the bolt ! To expand on your socket/axlestand method, try a good fitting 3/4" drive socket and T-Bar. Support with axle stand. Take one good sharp swing with a sledgehammer at the bar. I've shifted many large (2 1/2" AF and bigger) using this method |
| |
Last Edit: Jun 29, 2011 12:48:23 GMT by MrSpeedy
|
|
Tim
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,340
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 13:00:46 GMT
|
|
Haven't got a 3/4" bar or tools, and i really don't want to buy anything else.
But yes, that does make good sense.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
